No power until 5500rpm?
- Thread starter stevew145
- Start date
Ironically, I think I noticed my car ping today above 5k on the way home from work. I switched to hard pipes in February and it is just now getting Arizona hot. I have an IAT welded in near my throttle on the cold pipe but I have been too lazy to wire it into my sensor-only megasquirt yet. I am guessing temps are pretty toasty by now. It's too bad knock sensors don't work above 5k, that's the only time I need it.
ebay turbo manifold, FMIC, SSAFC with superstock map, full corksport turbo back exhaust (catless), SRI, motor rebuild bored .20.
Thats all i can think of for now. No cels , vacuum is -20 at idle and afr is in the 15s. idle is pretty steady although everyonce and a while if i start her up while shes still warm, it will stumble very bad at idle and vaccum will be around -10 and until i touch the gas it will keep doing it. but like i said thats everyonce and a while lol
Thats all i can think of for now. No cels , vacuum is -20 at idle and afr is in the 15s. idle is pretty steady although everyonce and a while if i start her up while shes still warm, it will stumble very bad at idle and vaccum will be around -10 and until i touch the gas it will keep doing it. but like i said thats everyonce and a while lol
My ECU is stock currently. I ran the AEM FIC last year for a while, but decided piggybacks could never be perfect and built a megasquirt. I am too nervous to actually run the car with it while it is my daily, so I just use it for data for now.
I have inserts on all four mounts, but I'll soon be swapping the rear for a new one, and leaving the inserts out. I am tired of the vibration and I know 95% of it comes from the rear.
I have an Injen CAI, Ron Davis radiator and Custom MSP side mount.
This past winter I installed an SLS hot pipe so I could tap a boost source on the coupler right off the turbo, so that my line to my WGA is only about 4" long. This was the best mod I've ever done to the car.
To get the MS to work I needed a proper IAT, so I bought a used set of hard pipes and welded in both an IAT and a flange for an HKS. The HKS is non-functional until I get the MS actually running the car.
The downside of the hard pipes is my underhood temps have definitely increased dramatically. The metal hood prop is too hot to touch after a little spirited driving. I have an Injen CAI and I shouldn't be pulling any engine bay air, so I am not sure if that has anything to do with the pinging I noticed the other day. Temps have dropped here, and I haven't noticed it again, but it will be 110 again here soon. June is usually good for a couple days in the high teens.
I also have the CR3 PCV dual catch-can setup. Decreasing oil in the intake should only help though.
I think the timing the OP is seeing proves it doesn't have anything to do with VTSC or VICS, unless the disruption of air is causing the knock.
I have inserts on all four mounts, but I'll soon be swapping the rear for a new one, and leaving the inserts out. I am tired of the vibration and I know 95% of it comes from the rear.
I have an Injen CAI, Ron Davis radiator and Custom MSP side mount.
This past winter I installed an SLS hot pipe so I could tap a boost source on the coupler right off the turbo, so that my line to my WGA is only about 4" long. This was the best mod I've ever done to the car.
To get the MS to work I needed a proper IAT, so I bought a used set of hard pipes and welded in both an IAT and a flange for an HKS. The HKS is non-functional until I get the MS actually running the car.
The downside of the hard pipes is my underhood temps have definitely increased dramatically. The metal hood prop is too hot to touch after a little spirited driving. I have an Injen CAI and I shouldn't be pulling any engine bay air, so I am not sure if that has anything to do with the pinging I noticed the other day. Temps have dropped here, and I haven't noticed it again, but it will be 110 again here soon. June is usually good for a couple days in the high teens.
I also have the CR3 PCV dual catch-can setup. Decreasing oil in the intake should only help though.
I think the timing the OP is seeing proves it doesn't have anything to do with VTSC or VICS, unless the disruption of air is causing the knock.
Hmmm, could very well be a relocated maf problem. Unless having your maf in pressure makes you engine go above 50% load sooner I cant see it making a difference. On a side note, 50% load is more like 15% load lol. You can often go over 50% load at -10 in.hg! My tps (throttle position sensor) reads at 0% throttle input, 10.6% and at 100% input ~86%. I am thinking that is how Mazda or whoever tuned the msp tuned it. This way, it will go over 50% load sooner, because it is reading more throttle then what is actually there, triggering the knock sensor sooner and at the same time changing the timing advance.
I have read somewhere that I am not the only person to have 10.6% as closed throttle tps reading.
I am thinking about making a coolant temp sensor clamp and clamp the voltage so the ecu see's only about 58 degrees, so the knock sensor is never used. I have been driving around for 2 weeks with no knock sensor, and haven't heard one ping yet, so I'm not too worried about that. above 45 degrees is when the ecu seems to go into closed loop, so anywhere between 46-59 should be good for a voltage clamp.
Realistically, the knock sensor is bulls*** anyways because it only monitors a narrow range (mostly closed loop), and not at all above 5k rpm, so it hardly does anything anyways.
I have read somewhere that I am not the only person to have 10.6% as closed throttle tps reading.
I am thinking about making a coolant temp sensor clamp and clamp the voltage so the ecu see's only about 58 degrees, so the knock sensor is never used. I have been driving around for 2 weeks with no knock sensor, and haven't heard one ping yet, so I'm not too worried about that. above 45 degrees is when the ecu seems to go into closed loop, so anywhere between 46-59 should be good for a voltage clamp.
Realistically, the knock sensor is bulls*** anyways because it only monitors a narrow range (mostly closed loop), and not at all above 5k rpm, so it hardly does anything anyways.
Just reading about knock sensor torquing. Some cars are sensitive to the amount of torque you are supposed to put on the knock sensor a little too much or too little can make the sensitivity change. I think this may be the problem. Now the trial and error begins.
I was too busy at work today to do anything. I am going to install my new tires (Z1 star specs FTW!), get an alignment and torque the knock sensor properly tomorrow. Working at a garage definitely has its perks. When I replaced the engine last, I don't think I touched the knock sensor. I thought I did, but now remembering the situation I don't think I did. I'm ******* lost. I am thinking about saying **** the protege, and get a MS3, but they are even worse with their drive by wire bulls***. BMW M coupe here I come!
Last edited:
nicholsspeed
Member
- :
- 03.5 MSP
don't give up so quickly, although they are tedious, i feel the reward with something that it takes time, and patience to figure out is far greater, then that witch it easily obtained.
- :
- Banned For Being A Troll
I ran my MAF on the pressure side for 8 years.
It never caused any issues.
What did totally kill my performance one summer was the VCTS flaps stayed closed even under load. They restricted boost so much the car behaved like a 2 Cyl Engine.
It never caused any issues.
What did totally kill my performance one summer was the VCTS flaps stayed closed even under load. They restricted boost so much the car behaved like a 2 Cyl Engine.
- :
- Banned For Being A Troll
Yes, the controllers could default to open or closed when not powered...
The easiest way to check is to have someone start the car when you are watching the levers on the intake.
If they move, then obviously unplugging the actuator isnt diabling the system.
If the flaps closest to the injectors is closed, it would have a profound effect on the perfomance.
The easiest way to check is to have someone start the car when you are watching the levers on the intake.
If they move, then obviously unplugging the actuator isnt diabling the system.
If the flaps closest to the injectors is closed, it would have a profound effect on the perfomance.
