New Spark Plugs Shave 1 second of 0-60mph.

Used a racing stop watch. I never had one of those things you plug into your cigarette lighter, always wanted to try one and compare there accuracy. I was thinking of installing what I use on the race vehicle and setting up beacons for more accurate testing, as I'm timing and shifting all by myself so it's not the most accurate, but you do what you do. The distance is the true measurement since timing can very when you have to do it all at once, but I used to do that before I bought a timing system for the race vehicle, so I got fairly proficient at it. Makes me wonder if you went to an NGK racing plug if you could even find better results. They can be nearly $100 dollars a plug. I was pretty blown away with the results though, never seen that kind of improvement from a plug change before in any vehicle. I was also surprised to see how lean the stock plugs looked when I pulled them out. We never even run are race vechiles that lean. The only mod I have on the car is a K&N filter. I didn't notice a big change with it, more in the gas mileage and and about 150-200 rpm drop at cruising speeds. I'm wondering if one of those tornado things would actually make more power. I've sold some recently but haven't had any reports back. In our race vehicles we used something like the tornado to break up the air and depending which one you used you could find big gains. I was curious though? I haven't had a chance to get my MSP on the race track and wonderng what is top speed on this car and is it drag limited or electronically limited?
 
So basically your confirming your results on the basic formula of Speed.


Something to ponder. When you go downhill your rpms drops, but your speed can maintain the same. Also, when you go uphill your rpms increase, but your speed can stay the same. So what you say above isn't always true, although I kind of suckered you into that one. Now if your on level ground in theory making an engine mod shouldn't change your rpms, but theory isn't always the best method to confirm results. You can have a killer motor on the dyno and all the #'s look great and for all purposes in theory it should rip, but for some unkown reason one with lesser #'s in all areas can outperform the other. I don't have the answers, but I can look at my rpm gauge and see a visible notice difference after the install.
 
Sorry man, you suckered me into nothing. You are just simply wrong or reading something very off. If you have an automatic transmission what you are saying would be correct because the torque converter allows "slip" of a constant rate. However.. in a manual transmission you are locked together unless your clutch slips. The gears are a fixed ratio, the final drive/differential is a fixed ratio, and the tires are a fixed size. You have one entire system of items that is completely locked together and does not budge or lash or change speeds.. it is directly fixed to the rpm's and if you are going 52.2 mph and it takes 3000 rpms to do so in some gear, it will always take 52.2 mph to get to 3000 rpm's with that tire size and gear. NEVER can change NO MATTER WHAT. HOWEVER, what you are probably seeing/noticing is that due to the way gearing amplifies speed etc... you can have the speed change nearly impercetibly... less than a mph and yet have a change in rpm of a few 100 rpm's... this is due to the multiplication of the gear of the rotation of the tires... But they are still fixed together. Just that at 58.8 mph you may get 3300 rpm's and at 58.9mph you'd get 3400 rpm's... so you'd think you didn't change.. but it did and the rpm's reflected it...

It's physics and that's the way it is.
 
If you are going downhill you are at a higher RPM going slower because you are in third gear most likely. Downhill fifth. It just seems like it.
 
Well I tried to get the rpm to adjust going downhill uphill and as Turfburn stated it doesn't work in a manual. Thanks for the education. Always glad to be corrected and learn.
 
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