New MSP/P5/MP3/Sedan Radiator!!!

Yes, we used a Ron Davis before that worked great. However, it was destroyed and we didn't want to spend the $500-600 on a new one so we ended up working with Mishimoto after discussions with several manufacturers.

BTW, forgot to add that on our system we also have two vents in the hood that help to extract the underhood heat....
That probably helps a ton (the hood). Thanks again for the info; I'll definitely have this radiator in mind if I have cooling issues in the future :)
Speaking of which, what is the word on idle cooling? That is definitely something my car has issues with (can reach upwards of 220 in heavy non-moving traffic).
 
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That probably helps a ton (the hood). Thanks again for the info; I'll definitely have this radiator in mind if I have cooling issues in the future :)
Speaking of which, what is the word on idle cooling? That is definitely something my car has issues with (can reach upwards of 220 in heavy non-moving traffic).


Idle cooling can be a big problem. We see it when lined up on the grid waiting for a race to start or when testing and pull into the pits for tire temps,etc. A trick you can do if in dire trouble is to run the heater. It acts like another radiator to help cool the system for a short time. The car's occupants have to suffer but better than a blown head gasket.

The best thing for keeping idle cooling at its maximum capability is to make sure your fans are at their best (no fan motor problems) and to make sure the fins on your radiator are clean (rinse off all those poor dead bugs).
 
I do in fact know the heater trick and have used it although it's not very effective as you surely know, but thanks for the tips about the fan blades.
On to another subject about cooling (hopefully I'm not threadjacking your thread too much despite being "on subject"); what is your take on lower temperature thermostats? Do they really help keep temperatures down or do they adversely affect how the engine runs (or both?)? There are some that open MUCH lower then others (namely the JDM one), whereas the NAPA one I've seen mentioned recently seems like a better option if it can actually help.
Finally, using an aluminum radiator means you can use a higher pressure radiator cap, but would you want to? Why or why not?

Thanks (in advance) for your knowledgeable advice!

Idle cooling can be a big problem. We see it when lined up on the grid waiting for a race to start or when testing and pull into the pits for tire temps,etc. A trick you can do if in dire trouble is to run the heater. It acts like another radiator to help cool the system for a short time. The car's occupants have to suffer but better than a blown head gasket.

The best thing for keeping idle cooling at its maximum capability is to make sure your fans are at their best (no fan motor problems) and to make sure the fins on your radiator are clean (rinse off all those poor dead bugs).
 
as far as radiator hoses, i assume we can use stock or stock replacement hoses correct? i just wanted to be sure before i order hoses so i have everything ready when it's time for install.
 
as far as radiator hoses, i assume we can use stock or stock replacement hoses correct? i just wanted to be sure before i order hoses so i have everything ready when it's time for install.

you should get these (J/K): www.killerglass.com
 

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as far as radiator hoses, i assume we can use stock or stock replacement hoses correct? i just wanted to be sure before i order hoses so i have everything ready when it's time for install.


Yes, as far as I am aware the stock hoses will work.

I am using the OE Mazdaspeed Protege hoses currently on race car with the prototype radiator. Has been working awesome!!!
 
I do in fact know the heater trick and have used it although it's not very effective as you surely know, but thanks for the tips about the fan blades.
On to another subject about cooling (hopefully I'm not threadjacking your thread too much despite being "on subject"); what is your take on lower temperature thermostats? Do they really help keep temperatures down or do they adversely affect how the engine runs (or both?)? There are some that open MUCH lower then others (namely the JDM one), whereas the NAPA one I've seen mentioned recently seems like a better option if it can actually help.
Finally, using an aluminum radiator means you can use a higher pressure radiator cap, but would you want to? Why or why not?

Thanks (in advance) for your knowledgeable advice!


Using a lower temp thermostat is usually done in attempt to help a system that has problems (such as a clogged or underperforming radiator). The factories tune their engines to work and produce power at a specific engine temperature. The thermostat just prevents radiator cooled water from entering the engine until it hits a certain temp. If the rad cannot cool the sytem enough a lower temp thermostat will just allow this to happen sooner.
Also be aware that most engines produce optimum power around the 200 degree F range.This is why most of the factory thermostats are set for 190-195 degress F.

An aluminum rad has many more benefits besides allowing the use of a higher pressure cap. Aluminum is a much better heat conductor than plastic giving it much better cooling capabilities. Brass is even better but weighs considerably more than aluminum.

On the other hand, the benefit of a higher pressure rad cap is that it allows a higher water temp before the water will boil (causing havoc in the engine cooling system).

Hope this helps??
 
What's goin on?
what's goin on?
What's goin on?
what's goin on?
 
a month later and he still haven't told you guys nothing . sound kind of sketchy even if your racing there's no way in hell you wouldn't have a second to tell all of you guys that there's no update or some thing . at least so it would feel like your not getting rip off. well good luck to every one hope you guys get your parts. im not trying to bash on no one but try to at least log on onces every two weeks and update.
 

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