Need some insite on tuning my car

Thanks for everyones help....The problem was NOT with the SSAFR, I had some other issues with the car....MAF wire was pulled out, vacuum leak at vacuum manifold, spark plug gaps were way off (.050) so now she is running like a champ....I just have an idle issue....super low idle after warm up (200-500) and will eventually stall and die....I belive it has something to do with the clutch switch because the idle does change depending on if clutch is in or out....Once I find and repair the issue I will update....If anyone has an idea of what it could be i'm up for some insight :)
 
The only thing the clutch switch does is let it know the clutch is pushed in for starts other than that it does nothing. You could have a short in the wiring pulling a lot of power though
 
sounds like you still have a vacuum leak that is letting out metered air. maybe see if you can pressurize your intake plumbing to see if you can find any leaks.
 
I think I faced the same problem before, but I wasn't on ssafc at the time. But I was careless to installed the MAF backwards. Everytime I hit boost, the car would jerk and eventually stall. I'm sure yours is in the correct direction, but it could be a bad sensor.
 
I was leaning toward clutch switch because the idle changes with the clutch disengaged compared to engaged....I will check voltage there and try to find some other place.....I don't think I have any more vacuum leaks because the car runs fine at warm up.....or any other time other than idle....could also be IAC, just some things to check this weekend...If anyone else has some ideas I can give it a try.....drewski, I have my boost problem fixed, just an idle issue now
 
vacuum leaks wont show during warmup as the high idle will keep the car running fine. having turkey also does not mean you do not have vac leaks. ive had a hole the size of a dime in IC piping before and still got turkey.

also on every car I have owned pushing in the clutch has a minor effect on the idle.

have you looked over the commonly known issues such as EGR? heck your IACV could be bad for all we know lol if you cant figure it out just bring it to a shop and pay for an hour diagnosis.
 
EGR is deleted from the car, along with numouros other things....not to mention the guy I bought it off of mangled the wiring, but I didn't have an idle issue before the last rebuild....I understand you can still get turkey with a leak but i'm good, full boost and not a jump in boost it increases they way it should.....I can look into a vac leak, I won't rule it out just yet....i'm not sure taking it to a shop (at least around here) would do me much good with all the stuff thats not on the car anymore, I am an ASE tech but I am GM, I do have a scan tool that will read my car and the only codes I have is clutch switch malfunction, random misfire, and water temp sensor code....I have cleared up the water temp sensor code and misfire just haven't cleared the codes yet.....I understand engaging and disengaging the clutch will make a slight change but 500 RPM isn't normal....I will def look into a vac leak if that doesn't affect idle with cold start....IACV and TPS will be checked over this weekend to make sure they are working properly, and I will most likely do a BG throttle body and intake clean on it while I have the pipeing off
 
mazdaspeed.webp I have one pic on this computer .....I have a couple on my FB of the aftermath of a rod going through my block....I will try and copy that to my computer and upload it to
 
yea she is all back together now....I got a block from a junk yard and put K-1 H beams rods, forged crank and wiesco pistons....I'm looking into a head from racingmazda.com but they are pricey....I might just do some work locally on the head I have
 
yeah i know the guy at racing mazda he is local to me. just worked on my integra.. will be tunning it too then my p5 once i boost. post pics of the engine bay set up sometime
 
cool....yea I have no doubt that racing mazda does a good job....just pricey....there are some good speed shops around me that I trust to do a good job, Just have to figure out how big I wanna go LOL....yea I would like to see some pics of your set up, I have a wiring nightmare under the hood because of the guy who I bought it off of so it doesn't look nice yet LOL, but to me under the hood doesn't have to look shiny and bling, as long as the outside/inside looks good then I'm fine, cause I know the power is there....power doesn't come from a shiny engine LOL....I would like to get some mesh to hide my FMIC though
 
well i have the p5 no boost:/ i can show u pic of boosted honda we have and he has worked on tho.

CB95DEE5-4C0D-4208-B55A-DCB2BD015C39-820-000000E8EA54471D.jpg
 
Just for the record... the "neutral safety switch" wire on the back of the tranny if unplugged will significantly raise the idle to around 2k rpms when the pedal is released... press it in and back down to normal. Maybe has something to do with my Haltech... may not happen with the stock ecu controlling more things. Just went through this changing out my clutch
 
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thanks shane, I will check that out but the more I think about it i'm leaning toward TPS...the raise in idle isn't that significant when clutch is released...it's only 500-700 rpm....rico, what kind of BOV is that? what PSI are you running in the honda?
 
yea she is all back together now....I got a block from a junk yard and put K-1 H beams rods, forged crank and wiesco pistons....I'm looking into a head from racingmazda.com but they are pricey....I might just do some work locally on the head I have

They are all forged OEM.. Hope you didn't pay more for it...
 
the block didn't come from a Mazdaspeed, No i didn't pay extra for it, just got a reman OEM....rico....thats some good power
 

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