Need help with brake pads

chuyler1

goes to eleven
:
2013 CX-9
Are there any how-tos online for replacing brake pads? I think I could do it my self but I'm not sure what to watch out for. Are there adjustments that have to be made once you replace them? I have ABS on my P5 if that makes a difference.

Also, how many miles should I expect to get out of the stock pads. I've got 35K now and they faintly sqeek first thing in the morning but the sound goes away once the brakes warm up. Anyone have recommendations on what brand to replace them with?

Thanks in advance.
 
Mine squeaks in the morning sometimes. I think that it just has to do with cold or wet brake components. I would recommend picking up a manual from your local autoparts store.

I didn't pick up the book b/c I've done many brake jobs before. Well, this was different and I ended up trying to push something that needed to be unscrewed.

It has all worked out in the end.
 
There is a How-to for replacing rotors, which has some good pictures for reference, but it's not the best how-to for just changing your pads.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43890

The procedure is very easy really. If you are ok with following text instructions then let me know and I can write some up very easily.

My stock pads lasted about 50K miles and before I changed them my brake light was on for about 3 months because of the low pads. I have Hawk HPSs all around.
 
Ok, more questions...

The squealers are obviously in place to warn the driver that the pads are wearing thin. Is it best to wait until the sqealers warn you before replacing the pads or is it better to replace them before this occurs? Will the squealers damage the rotors?

Some tutorials mention the anti-squeel compound and reusing your old brake pad shims and others don't mention them at all. Do some aftermarket pads come with their own shims? If they do, is there any need for the anti-squeel compound?

For only replacing the pads, I only have to unscrew the allen bolt and lift up the caliper right?

When only replacing the pads, is it common practice to also turn or the rotors or is it a judgement call?
 
chuyler1 said:
Excellent...so do you recommend Mazda pads or something else?
i put some wagner pads ($38.99) in at 32k and they are the same as OEM. they have lifetime warranty, too.....got them at CAP! the fronts are easy to do.....i put new rotors in, too. old ones were a little warped and new ones were 18.99 each. well worth it.

-R
 
chuyler1 said:
Some tutorials mention the anti-squeel compound and reusing your old brake pad shims and others don't mention them at all. Do some aftermarket pads come with their own shims? If they do, is there any need for the anti-squeel compound?
Some come with their own shims, my Hawks did. I'd still put some brake quiet on the back of the pad just to minimize the noise.

chuyler1 said:
For only replacing the pads, I only have to unscrew the allen bolt and lift up the caliper right?
For the front ones, yes. Then you push the piston in with a C clamp and swivel the caliper back down - be careful to not rip your piston dustboot when pushing the caliper back in place.

chuyler1 said:
When only replacing the pads, is it common practice to also turn or the rotors or is it a judgement call?
If there are any grooves on the rotor then they say you should. If not then you should sand the rotor with a fine grained sand paper (200?)
 
chuyler1 said:
Ok, more questions...

The squealers are obviously in place to warn the driver that the pads are wearing thin. Is it best to wait until the sqealers warn you before replacing the pads or is it better to replace them before this occurs? Will the squealers damage the rotors?

Some tutorials mention the anti-squeel compound and reusing your old brake pad shims and others don't mention them at all. Do some aftermarket pads come with their own shims? If they do, is there any need for the anti-squeel compound?

For only replacing the pads, I only have to unscrew the allen bolt and lift up the caliper right?

When only replacing the pads, is it common practice to also turn or the rotors or is it a judgement call?
after market ones come with shims, but i used original ones,

i used the anti squeel stuff you put behind the pads $1.99 at CAP.

for just pads you only take out one bolt and swing caliper up. your old rotors will probably feel much worse with new pads if they are a little warped.

taking the caliper off there are two bolts.....getting rotors off is a pain, but they will come loose.

-R
 
Once the caliper is out of the way, is there any trick to removing the rotors or do they just pop off with some wiggling and pulling?
 
The rotors are not attached to anything so you can just pull them out. If they don't budge then it might just mean that rust formed on the inside - just use a rubber mallet to bang at the rotor until it cracks the rust and breaks free.
 
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