My turn...LSD took a big crap.

[TurfBurn]

well I had Nick put in the GM synchromesh I bought for $56!! He then recommended that I don't use that stuff because it's too thin for our tranny. I asked for it back, but it was already used for a mile or so. I guess he threw it out. So we put in the Mobile 1 he had around with some LSD additives. I hope he wasn't just trying to make more money off of me. I really wanted to try the GM stuff, but went with Nicks suggestion. So right now I'm out of $100 worth of fluid...that's why I was wondering if I can reuse what I had in there hehe.

That was one of the reasons I didn't want to try it as I didn't like that it was a thinner synthetic... I did use Mobil 1 in my brother's car at one point and NEVER again... it was way worse than the stock fluid... uber crap I thought. Shockproof was great when it went in... it took a couple hours of driving and the whole tranny smoothed out.

 

[CustomMSP]

Can you recommend a place to buy the Redline shockproof?

Thanks.

 

[funktownp5]

The GM synchomesh works great, me tranny just took a s*** on me not to long ago

and i think one of the factors that it failed is because i was using a too heavy weight of

gear oil (Mobil 1 MT-90). With the synchromesh i can actually FEEL the diffrence, i

can actually get into reverse on the first try with it unlike the Mobil oil.

 

[CustomMSP]

Well Mobil 1 was working ok for me. The shifting was much better than before with the Redline MTL. However, I noticed that the tranny was become somewhat notchy lately with the mobil 1 in there. I'm worried about the long term protection, and based on what I was told by a view people the Synchromesh is a little too thin of a viscousity

 

[TurfBurn]

I always buy mine through pegasus racing.. it is like 8.50 a quart through them.. I think summit racing might carry it as well... I can only get access through my business to royal purple, but I've never used it so I won't recommend it.

I may actually have a spare quart or two of the lightweight after this weekend... I could sell you the quarts that I'll have extra possibly if you end up interested... but I won't know for sure what I do or don't have until the end of this weekend.

Later!

 

[funktownp5]

The mobil gear oil is actually way too heavy and thats why you have a "notchy" feeling

of the gears. With the thinner oil it lets the gears more smoothly, it doesn't have to

squeeze that heavy oil out before the gears engauge.

 

[TurfBurn]

The mobil gear oil is actually way too heavy and thats why you have a "notchy" feeling

of the gears. With the thinner oil it lets the gears more smoothly, it doesn't have to

squeeze that heavy oil out before the gears engauge.

Nope.. that is exactly opposite of correct.... The reason the shockproof works so well is because it is thick enough to cling to the gears and keeps a barrier, it eliminates metal to metal contact essentially and makes everything MUCH smoother. when something is "notchy" it is because the metal is sticking essentially... if the fluid was too thick you'd feel that the system was stiff, thick, or springy. Any time you get something that feels sharp like notchy shifting, you are experiencing under lubrication of the surfaces... When the motor is cold the reason you have trouble getting into gears and the like is because most of the fluid has drained off of the gears and isn't lubricating, additionally it takes a while for it to flow in where it needs to be and thus things don't get lubricated or work as well as they should.

 

[CustomMSP]

I always buy mine through pegasus racing.. it is like 8.50 a quart through them.. I think summit racing might carry it as well... I can only get access through my business to royal purple, but I've never used it so I won't recommend it.

I may actually have a spare quart or two of the lightweight after this weekend... I could sell you the quarts that I'll have extra possibly if you end up interested... but I won't know for sure what I do or don't have until the end of this weekend.

Later!

Sure let me know!

Thanks.

 

[CustomMSP]

Steve,

One more question if don't mind...

How does the engine stay in place with only 1 mount and a jack? I noticed that you supported it under the oil pan. won't the weight of the engine crush the pan with only 1 mount? How does it not tip from front to back? Or is 1 mount enough?

Thanks.

 

[TurfBurn]

I usually leave 2 mounts on... and when I support it I use a wide flat board and a broad headed jack... that way it works...

when I go down to 1 mount... I put a jack stand under the transmission... and then the jack and a board under the oil pan... but do NOT ever go under the motor when it is supported that way... far too dangerous... but done carefully it is safe for mount removal. Just make sure the jack doesn't get bumped... and putting an extra jackstand under there isnt' a bad idea either.

The oil pan can handle most of the weight of the motor.. just not the weight of the car! So don't ever use it as a jacking point.

 

[CustomMSP]

So in the end the motor is held up with only the passenger side mount and the jack by the oil pan?

Thanks.

 

[JDM Sam]

To do this properly and safely, you really should use the engine hoist that supports the engine on the strut tower fender rails.

 

[CustomMSP]

Hmm...thx for the info JDM Sam

 

[TurfBurn]

Yeah JDM's way is the safe and proper way to do it... whatever you do just do it SAFELY!!!

 

[CustomMSP]

Well made some progress tonight.

Got the damn axle separated finally. Removed the exhaust mani/turbo/spipe...that stuff weighs a lot! Removed front/rear mount. Suspended the motor on the strut bar along with the jack from underneath. Tomorrow comes the fun stuff lol.

Thanks.

 

[CustomMSP]

Got the clutch and flywheel off. What a b**** getting the tranny out...was stuck on the pass side axle. I don't even want to think about how I'm going to get that back in there.

So what can you tell about my clutch/flywheel based on these pics? You can see heat marks on the pressure plate 'flywheel'

The actual clutch disk looks good I think, well the flywheel side atleast. The pressure plate side of the clutch disk looks iffy, with the most wear towards the bottom of each little rectangle.

 

[CustomMSP]

Looked at the exhaust valves and the 3rd cylinder (I think) valves are not as white as every other.

What do you think?\

Thanks

 

[TurfBurn]

It's hard to tell from that picture.. the faces of the valves matters a lot more... they look like they are a little hot, but they could be just right and you are getting a clean burn without too much carbon fouling and that is why they are staying white... I wouldn't be able to tell you anything unless the head was off... but if anything they may be a bit hot/lean, but otherwise look ok.

 

[CustomMSP]

How about the #3 cylinder valves? Look darker than the rest. No comment on the clutch?

Also, I can't get the damn seals out! Are they suppose to be in there that tight? Anything special I need to do?

Thanks.

 

[ROB-80E]

Which seals you trying to get out?

As for the clutch, it looks ok to be reused to me. Wasn't slipping or anything before you pulled it out, so "should" be fine....but that all depends on if you go up in power and by how much in the future.

With the Valves, I'm with Turf, they look like the cylinders have been running lean, but without seeing the insides, hard to tell. What was the colour of your spark plugs?? Got any pics of them? As for 3rd cyl, The valves will be darker because for some reason that cylinder is getting a better air/fuel mix when ignited...ie, not as lean.