My turn...LSD took a big crap.

turf so welding the LSD is a good thing? It make's it stronger? Should I take my car some where and get my LSD welded before it dose take a dump?
 
Titanium,

You probably know that in order to get to the LSD the transmission needs to be removed and disassembled.

This will probably cost you over 1 grand including of welding the LSD.

Also,

The clutch grabs very well if I'm in reverse gear. I'm going to take the tranny out and send the clutch/flywheel off to Spec. We'll see what the problem is.
 
It's not cost effective to take your lsd to just weld it. You might as well cryo treat the gearbox and replace with a new clutch while youre doing it. A tranny drop is not a task for the novice DIY.
 
TurfBurn said:
Fidanza flywheel? fidanza + clutch = no grip...

I ran over 200 horse with a stock MSP LSD For a short while before my motor went up... and it was all good.. I'll be running nearly 400 on it in a few weeks... mine is welded.. nice dime stacks... I can get that done for anyone too...

Hi Turf, sort of off topic here, but is there a problem with the fidanza flywheels? just wondering because me and TwilightProtege both have one on order.


Thanks
 
scorch70 said:
Hi Turf, sort of off topic here, but is there a problem with the fidanza flywheels? just wondering because me and TwilightProtege both have one on order.


Thanks

It seems like a LOT of people have clutch failures in very short mileage with Fidanza flywheels...

CRYOTREATING DOESN'T DO ANYTHING WORTHWHILE FOR YOUR TRANNY... ok now that that's been covered...

Pulling the tranny isn't that bad... and I did a writeup that people have used and said it wasn't too horrible...

Pulling it just to get it welded... all depends... not if you have a shop do it.. but if you do it yourself... then it's no big deal. The welding will only cost 50-150 dollars to have done... so it's cheap compared to a 500 dollar LSD (well 600 about when you replace the seals and bearings as appropriate).

So it's all a tossup.

Later,

Steve
 
JDM Sam said:
How does strengthening the gears through cryotreating not make a difference?

Because it doesn't strengthen them.

I've discussed this and gone over it at reasonable length with a materials science professor and many others. Cryo will get you some more dimensional stability... and it has shown anecodotally some improvement in wear charactersitcs. But it does NOT improve strength. It can reduce some surface stresses which in turn can lead to a slight improvement in resistance to crack initiation and the like, but it does NOT make the part "stronger." It yields no change in Youngs Modulus, it yields no change in Brinell and Rockwell hardness, it yields no change in ultimate tensile strength, and thus it yields NO improvement in actual strength of material. In some cases a "cryo" process will yield some improvement but only as a resultant of the fact the part is heat treated after the fact. Shot peening the parts and having a HEAT treatment done to actually enhance the grain structure of the metals involved can yield some improvements...but for that to be accurately and correctly done, you would need to know exactly what alloy is being used for our gears and half shafts.

So in the end... the cryo does jack for you.
 
That's strange to hear since turbo magazine did a Supra build up with the parts cryogenically treated and the piston rings were a lot harder to file than before. Got any idea on what the alloy the gear is made up of? Anyways to each his own.
 
JDM Sam said:
That's strange to hear since turbo magazine did a Supra build up with the parts cryogenically treated and the piston rings were a lot harder to file than before. Got any idea on what the alloy the gear is made up of? Anyways to each his own.

And people can "feel" the horsepower gain from an electric supercharger (marine bilge pump)... when they actually lose horsepower. I'm just telling you that science, and materials, and the like don't show anything of benefit past some wear improvement and dimensional stability in some cases.

As far as the gears... no idea... it's steel of some form that is still ferrous enough to be magnetic... but that's about as close as I know... whether it is a 1 series or 4 series or whatever of steel I have no idea. I'd hope/guess it's a 4 series, but don't have a way to check at this point.
 
Yup, I personally would just buy new gears from a stronger material than try to make what I have work. I was just making that suggestion for people who wouldn't want to spend that much since its cheaper to do. Also, the shotpeening and deburring the sharp edges would work as well.
 
Well I have a secret on Tranny's that I found out from another member and I'll leave at this: It's not the gear strength that causes them to strip/break under very high horsepower... there is an "issue" with the gearbox that causes that.

I'll have a product out in a couple months that will reduce/eliminate the problem, so stay tuned, then you'll know what the issue is :D.
 
Started on disassembling the engine tonight. I'm down to taking the axle out, but it doesn't want to go! I know you said something about a set of pryers in you How to Turfburn. Any other suggestions? Thanks for the how to by the way(cool)

The tranny fluid was kinda black with out about 3k miles on it. I have synthetic Mobile 1. I'm assuming it's safe to reuse this fuild?

Also going to port the internal wastegate port and the exhaust mani ports. Also going to try to put on the SSAutochrome "s-pipe" I have laying around.

Check out the pics :)
 
getting that axle out can be pretty difficult... I really had to pry on it with a wide pickle fork to get it to pop loose. That did it... so try ramming a pickle fork in there and get it so it won't scrape or puncture the CV joint and just go to town and that should get it out.

I wouldn't recommend reusing the fluid at all.. there is almost always contaminants in whatever you drain it into which is very bad for the fluid... besides it is always good to have new fluid in it any time you do it!
 
How about the coolant I drained...can that be reused? Can I buy the fork at any autoparts store?

As you know I just had the axle out a few months ago too. I can only imagine how difficult it can be for somebody that never had it out.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Use a big pry bar. Don't reuse fluids its useless once you emptied it out. Its like motor oil, you wouldnt reuse oil you dumped out. Use redline this time. I had mobil 1 before, but now I use redline. Green coolant is cheap, so get that changed as well.
 
Yeah when we are talking about a 7 dollar bottle of coolant to refill everything... I wouldn't worry about trying to reuse it.. just not a safe/good idea. The coolant system is somewhat more forgiving than other things... but still isn't recommended. a nice wide and flat prybar should be ok... the only thing you really have to watch for is that you don't dent the CV joint body too much.
 
JDM Sam said:
Use a big pry bar. Don't reuse fluids its useless once you emptied it out. Its like motor oil, you wouldnt reuse oil you dumped out. Use redline this time. I had mobil 1 before, but now I use redline. Green coolant is cheap, so get that changed as well.

I initially had Redline MTL and didn't like it too much. It thinned out after a while and shifting sucked. Should I try the shockproof redline? Yeah I'll get new coolant.

Thanks.
 
I have been happy with the lightweight shockproof... synchromesh is supposed to be great too, but never tried it...
 
well I had Nick put in the GM synchromesh I bought for $56!! He then recommended that I don't use that stuff because it's too thin for our tranny. I asked for it back, but it was already used for a mile or so. I guess he threw it out. So we put in the Mobile 1 he had around with some LSD additives. I hope he wasn't just trying to make more money off of me. I really wanted to try the GM stuff, but went with Nicks suggestion. So right now I'm out of $100 worth of fluid...that's why I was wondering if I can reuse what I had in there hehe.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back