My new MAF setup + extra pictures

I doubt thae grommet that is used to keep the IAT sensor in the intake would hold it in under boost. It would probably cause boost leaks even if it didn't pop it out like a cork.

Rainman, are you still thinking about moving the sensor? If so, what are you going to use? If they aren't too pricey it would be cool to make a bung on the pipe with female threads, then epoxy a male threaded pipe onto the IAT sensor like a sleeve and screw it into the bung. That way it would hold under boost and could be removed if need be.
 
Spooled said:
I doubt thae grommet that is used to keep the IAT sensor in the intake would hold it in under boost. It would probably cause boost leaks even if it didn't pop it out like a cork.

Rainman, are you still thinking about moving the sensor? If so, what are you going to use? If they aren't too pricey it would be cool to make a bung on the pipe with female threads, then epoxy a male threaded pipe onto the IAT sensor like a sleeve and screw it into the bung. That way it would hold under boost and could be removed if need be.

^^^I was still thinking about how to do this. Your idea is an excellent suggestion as I was thinking the same thing about the rubber grommet. I will look into it as soon as I get some time.

R
 
ok well i took out that diffuser plate that was in with the maff and soo far soo good. i like how the car feels. im suprised how it felt actually but then i realized that the diffuser was doing prob more harm then good. i see it as this, the plate with the gride being in the flow of air causes turbulance right around the plate do to the air having to "file" through the grid itself, in causeing this turbulant air it slows down how fast the air can flow through it. IE: plate causes restriction , take plate out, have no restriction, better flow of air. i dont believe this plate causes that much restriction but nun the less it does still restric the "free flowing" air...
just mah two cents

take it easy
-dave
 
CasopoliS said:
I think the point of this device is to linearize the turbulant air so the vane sees a better represenation of the air. I think by taking this out, the MAF might not be as accurate, but its probably a negligable amount.

about this quote, if you have noticed the diffuser was on the opposite side your thinking of. the diffuser comes after the sensor it'self. so it would try to help linearize the turbulant air that has already gone past the sensor.

-dave
 
doggman said:
about this quote, if you have noticed the diffuser was on the opposite side your thinking of. the diffuser comes after the sensor it'self. so it would try to help linearize the turbulant air that has already gone past the sensor.

-dave

I never actually payed attention. Good point.
 
I don't have the MAF on the pressure side but I've taken off the diffuser ages ago (over a year) and it works great. I did put it back a couple of months ago to see again and... 10 min. later it was off! I can feel a difference.

doggman said:
ok well i took out that diffuser plate that was in with the maff and soo far soo good. i like how the car feels. im suprised how it felt actually but then i realized that the diffuser was doing prob more harm then good. i see it as this, the plate with the gride being in the flow of air causes turbulance right around the plate do to the air having to "file" through the grid itself, in causeing this turbulant air it slows down how fast the air can flow through it. IE: plate causes restriction , take plate out, have no restriction, better flow of air. i dont believe this plate causes that much restriction but nun the less it does still restric the "free flowing" air...
just mah two cents

take it easy
-dave
 
whats the diffuser in the MAF ? Is it the plastic grid in front of the litte sensor ?
 
Nos said:
do you think it makes a difference on N/A cars ?

take it out then tell us. since nobody really knows much about it, and most of us are turbos in this thread.... we would have no clue. Put it this way, if you take it out you are not going to blow up your car.
 
i tryed to take it out but damn its stuck ! I dont want to brake the case or something .
 
Casopolis:I noticed on your new setup you moved the MAF back. Why?

how long did you run it on the IC >TB side and is the MAF sensor still clean?
 
I tried it in both directions. The car does run better with the MAF relocated. Just recently I bought the prototype hardpipe from ********** with the MAF on the pressure side along with an upgraded SMIC and SSQ. I get it next week. Those guys are the s***!!!!

Sidenote: I did have to lower the boost a little to prevent running too lean.

Anyways, I would really suggest against pulling the diffuser if you are running the MAF on the pressure side. On of the big proerties of a turbo is that it creates a sort of cyclone in the pipes. The vane could easily snap off from the turbulance.

Also, the diffuser is restrictive. Blow through it yourself, you will see what I mean.

But if you decide to let me know how it is running in about 20000 miles and I might jump on that bandwagon too!!!! :)
 
computerGeek said:
Casopolis:I noticed on your new setup you moved the MAF back. Why?

how long did you run it on the IC >TB side and is the MAF sensor still clean?


not nearly as long as others. I moved it due to my new FMIC - that and I did not want to cut the newer pies.

Car runs great with Unichip.
 
I just recently relocated my Maf and couldn't be happier with results. One question I have is about the setting for the greddy bov. After I moved the MAF, I had to loosen the BOV to about 8 thread exposed to reduced the compressor surge. Does this sound right to anyone here?
 
Bump for info.........
anyone have any problems with the MAF moved yet? if i were to do this and i have a problem with the car I will hav to shift if all back to stock. The dealer wont be able to tell I've moved the MAF as long as i put it back where it was right?
 
MP3Architect said:
Bump for info.........
anyone have any problems with the MAF moved yet? if i were to do this and i have a problem with the car I will hav to shift if all back to stock. The dealer wont be able to tell I've moved the MAF as long as i put it back where it was right?

Man... I forgot I was still sub'd on this thread! LOL!

The MAF move is still a good idea. The car doesn't run nearly as rich. With a NB O2, it is hard for me to tell for usre if it is too lean. There was a period where I doubted myself because my plugs were showing lean conditions, but I had a lot of vac leaks.

Check my sig, I am using bigger pipes than stock.

As for moving it around, I am not sure I understand. You have hard pipes? If so then whenyou go to the dealer you would have to put the stock pipes back on and move the MAF back to where it came from. So to answer your question, yes you can move it back.

Now if you are talking about cutting the plastic ones then no.

Finally and most important, make sure you reset your ECU each time you move it!!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't remember you so I can't estimate your knowledge, so to answer a potential question, to reset your ECU, disconnect the - side of the battery, pump the brakes a few times to drain the capacitive charge, and then wait a few moments before reconnecting the battery... The alarm may go crazy for a mintute or two, if it does just tap lock and unlock buttons back and forth on the remote rapidly to resolve it. Then make sure that when you arm the alarm, the light blinks slowly.

Hope this helps.
 
yeah i have hardpipes with my fmic. so i was going to cut them. thanks for the info. i plan on doing this tomorrow or the next day so hopefully it all works out.
 
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