My new baby :)

[Abaddon]

My new sub arrived today

Alpine Type-X 10"

This thing looks awesome, IMHO. I cant wait to get it installed; but that wont happen for a while.

Also pictured is the Alpine PDX 1.600 Amp that will be driving the woofer, and the JL-Audio cleansweep signal processor that will be providing a nice clean signal for the amp.

Not pictured (still awaiting delivery) are the Alpine Type-2 5.25" components for the front doors and the PDX 2.150 amp to drive them.

Future purchases: All the power cables to actually hook those amps up, sound deadening, small pre-amp so I can hook up my guitar (think VW) and possibly an equalizer.

(I just thought I would share my Joy)

 

[Snyeed]

Ive never really heard about the JL-Audio cleansweep, Can you give me some info about it? You going aftermarket HU or staying stock?

 

[Abaddon]

Ive never really heard about the JL-Audio cleansweep, Can you give me some info about it? You going aftermarket HU or staying stock?

Stock Head-Unit; Thats what the Cleansweep is for.

In a nutshell, it is a line out converter on crack. It hooks into the speaker level outputs from the head unit (although, I have heard it is possible to tap into pre-amp level signals with the BOSE system) and then with a special calibration CD, equalizes the signal across the frequency response to get the system back to a flat curve (since our cars use MASSIVE roll offs below 150hz). Then, the clean signal gets fed via RCA's to your amp(s).

Another similar product is the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty (versions .1 and .2). Although, if you have a bluetooth enabled palm device, the 3sixty offers more since you can manually set the equalizer to your own preferences so that you don't need an external EQ. I went with the cleansweep because I don't have access to a bluetooth enabled palm device, and I don't want to have to buy one.

 

[Snyeed]

Thanks for the info. Im guessing you think its worth the price? Where were you thinking about mounting it?

 

[Abaddon]

I'm not 100% sure yet...

If I have to tap off the lines behind the head-unit, then its going in the glovebox.

If I can tap off the lines off the amp under the drivers seat, then it is going there.


EDIT: In our cars, it is deffinitly worth the price. There is a major ammount of factory equilization to optimize the stock system. If you just add in a LOC you will be feeding this modified signal to your aftermarket amp and speakers, and you wont get the true benefit of speakers with a high dynamic range. Truly, all you would accomplish is making the stock system sound louder...

 

[Abaddon]

PDX 2.150 Arrived today.

Speakers should arrive Monday/Tuesday... with any luck, I should start taking the car apart next weekend

 

[rob142sti]

please take as many pics as possible during install.. a write up would do wonders.. thanks

 

[tsunami]

have fun!! interested to see how you mount your amps as mine are currently sitting on a board in the trunk that i thought would work great but in reality i liked having a trunk so my newest idea is to take 2 pieces of aluminum and bolt them to the wheel wells in the back and bolt my amps and distro block....


also for wires i was very happy with my street wires 0awg though you do have to use their connectors if you want to use thier distro block. thier connectors aren't cheap but dayum are they nice!! (40$ a pair) i found great deals through www.partsexpress.com for street wire components

for sound deadening (a must if you are pushing that much to each door and the trunk/spoiler/liscense plate) i liked the price on the raamatt stuff it compared to they dynamat/tsunami butyl stuff but was signifcantly cheaper...

have fun and good luck

www.raamaudio.com

 

[Abaddon]

What I am planing on doing, is mounting the 1.600 amp directly to the sub box, and placing the 2.150 under the passenger seat. Then I will ground them both at the same location under the REAR seat.

Why mount them in two different locations? Arguably the front speakers and amp that I have chosen should produce quite the pleasant listening experience on their own. So I have chosen a place for the amp that most would consider permanent.

On the other hand, the sub box (sealed 0.74 ft^3 = Tiny) I may need to take out of the car from time to time. All I will need to do is remove the power and ground cables from the amp, and pull out the box (should take about 10 minutes or less) and then I'll have full hatch space when I need it.

I am planing on going with the raamatt stuff but my budget does not allow for any sound deadening right now (I feel a CAI is more important).

I still don't know what I am going to do about my power cables. Apparently amp kits are VERY expensive in Canada... I'm not going to rush this install though.. I'm going to take my time and do it right.

Edit: Bought all the cables from a local shop today.. got EVERYTHING I'll need for $108.

 

[Abaddon]

Humm.... apparently there is a floor VENT beneath the front seats... this may pose an issue for amp / processor placement...

 

[Abaddon]

Got the processor, Sub, and mono amp installed.

If I were to die today, I would die a very happy man.

 

[Bufalo]

I mounted an amplifier under the passenger seat, the vent down there proved to be no issue. I cut back some of the carpet and pushed it down into a groove in the floorboard. When you get the seat out, you'll see what I mean.

 

[Abaddon]

I mounted an amplifier under the passenger seat, the vent down there proved to be no issue. I cut back some of the carpet and pushed it down into a groove in the floorboard. When you get the seat out, you'll see what I mean.

Oh... I have an idea of what to do and I wont even need to touch the vent... Although those pre-cut holes in the carpet under the seat are going to help quite a bit with the overall install.