My Hypertech Impressions
- Thread starter Darth Vader
- Start date
there is alot of discussion about this subject here, but if your looking plainly for a plug and play REFLASH, not one you can tune yourself then this is for you, if you want to add more and more goodies then I say go COBB..this is plainly for someone who wants the most out of their car with ONLY very minor bolt ons
Darth Vader
Member
The is NO low fuel pressure. You're reading the datalog wrong. Trust me, when my stock pump crapped out and dropped to 700 psi over 5000, I noticed it and you would, too, Dashhawk or no.
MBOIZ, why don't you read the threads on this? I'm more modified than you and the HT tune is really pretty good.
MBOIZ, why don't you read the threads on this? I'm more modified than you and the HT tune is really pretty good.
I see, thanks for the info spdjnke...
Sorry, after I posted in this thread, I seen another thread that was pretty long and I started reading up on it... Thanks Darth Vader...
Darth Vader
Member
If you're measuring what's easier on it, that's harder. Extended idling for "warmup" doesn't heat the cylinders evenly and causes additional wear. A small amount but, real. The best bet is to get through the warmup process as fast as possible, bar racing the engine at high load, obviously.
There's no excuse for bad warmup performance on a modern car. Why we had to "warm up" the car back in the bad old days is because carb performance off warmup was so terrible, with gasoline falling out of suspension and pooling, weak ignition systems failing to ignite erratic mixture ratios, big heavy masses in the rotating assembly taking ages to get hot, crappy ring seal from loose bore tolerances ad garbage ring materials, etc.
There's no excuse for bad warmup performance on a modern car. Why we had to "warm up" the car back in the bad old days is because carb performance off warmup was so terrible, with gasoline falling out of suspension and pooling, weak ignition systems failing to ignite erratic mixture ratios, big heavy masses in the rotating assembly taking ages to get hot, crappy ring seal from loose bore tolerances ad garbage ring materials, etc.
Darth Vader
Member
For god's sake, read the post. I didn't say you should race out of the driveway. I said you should drive the car to warm it up, not let it idle in the driveway.
Idling in the driveway will warm the water up but, the cylinders aren't heated evenly and this causes wear.
If you look at the insides of engines subjected to protracted warmup, short trips and extended idling, you see hot spots on the cylinder walls and scuffing on walls and piston skirts. I have verified this happens with many different types of engines.
To repeat: Drive the car normally from the point the idle stabilises, that'll be just fine and better for it in the long run.
Everybody here that's responded seems to be doing something similar to this so, apparently it's just reading comprehension.
Idling in the driveway will warm the water up but, the cylinders aren't heated evenly and this causes wear.
If you look at the insides of engines subjected to protracted warmup, short trips and extended idling, you see hot spots on the cylinder walls and scuffing on walls and piston skirts. I have verified this happens with many different types of engines.
To repeat: Drive the car normally from the point the idle stabilises, that'll be just fine and better for it in the long run.
Everybody here that's responded seems to be doing something similar to this so, apparently it's just reading comprehension.
I thought drivng the car cold( Not op TEMP) cause over oiling issue. The car when cold,The oil pressure and fuel pressure are high then when the car is at operation temp? NO. I have always had( Not the SPD3) an oil pressure gauges and would notice the fuel pressure is higher then at idle when warm.
Darth Vader
Member
Roger that, it is. let's stay on that.
I suggest everyone go to the library and pick up a book on how engines actually work. There's alot of misconceptions here, not including the misinterpretations of what I said.
Here's a good place to start:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/4205233
I suggest everyone go to the library and pick up a book on how engines actually work. There's alot of misconceptions here, not including the misinterpretations of what I said.
Here's a good place to start:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/4205233
Dude lose the attitude, its not necessary..further more when you say something don't use your popular mechanics lingo and exspect everyone to know exactly what your saying...not trying to argue but when you start making insulting remarks its not cool at all even if it is your post!
Darth Vader
Member
It gets frustrating when people come at you for things you don't write or misinterpret what you do. It's not "attitude". I don't think it's an unreasonable expectation that people read carefully before they post.
Asking clarifying questions without the exclamatory presentation like this, for example:
"What? I prefer to let the car idle down and then I start driving it without going into boost. You should never rush the warm up!"
...is totally fine, in my opinion.
I apologise if my views seem harsh to you. I prefer to help if I can.
Asking clarifying questions without the exclamatory presentation like this, for example:
"What? I prefer to let the car idle down and then I start driving it without going into boost. You should never rush the warm up!"
...is totally fine, in my opinion.
I apologise if my views seem harsh to you. I prefer to help if I can.
