My how-to: Water Temp gauge.

[02p5]

While crusing the car temps are averaging 81-89 C and the car goes up to low 90s when pushed hard.

We found when the oil temps hit 220 mark and water temps are at 203 the thermo starts moving up really quickly

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Your factory gauge might not be working right...

 

[FL_PR5]

wow i havn't been on in a hot minute. i need to play catch up.

mine stays at 150 steady. only twice has mine shot up to 210 then dropped. one of those times was a freak accident and then shot back down to 120. but 150 is normal driving for me.

 

[niv]

hmm i can't think of what else it might be.. maybe his rad cap is sketchy and not keeping pressure and therefore allowing a lower boiling point?

 

[Maxx Mazda]

hmm i can't think of what else it might be.. maybe his rad cap is sketchy and not keeping pressure and therefore allowing a lower boiling point?

No, rad cap will just control pressure, not so much temperature. I have a Mazdaspeed 1.3 Bar.

 

[FL_PR5]

hmm, that's odd for it to be that high. is he using the same hose from the how-to? what gauge wire? just checking all the little stuff to narrow it down.

 

[02p5]

wow i havn't been on in a hot minute. i need to play catch up.

mine stays at 150 steady. only twice has mine shot up to 210 then dropped. one of those times was a freak accident and then shot back down to 120. but 150 is normal driving for me.

wow, 150 is low that is like 65.5 C that is so low.

 

[02p5]

hmm, that's odd for it to be that high. is he using the same hose from the how-to? what gauge wire? just checking all the little stuff to narrow it down.

We used all the same hose on the how-to. I have a different unit (non gauge type) to monitor the temps. It's is properly grounded and I believe is working properly

 

[Maxx Mazda]

What do you mean non gauge type?

 

[niv]

yah.. we pretty much copied your how to exactly. (i think the piping was a touch longer, but otherwise it was exact)

as in it's not like an autometer or other type of "gauge" - i think is what he's saying. it's a different type of monitoring gauge.

as for rad cap... i was doing a bit of reading and if that isn't holding the pressure, it isn't allowing for the system to be pressurized... the pressure is what increases the boiling point of the solution in the system. (don't rmemeber the exact numbers but for every 1psi of rad cap bypass you lose 2.3-2.5 degrees of cooling capacity)

 

[Maxx Mazda]

as for rad cap... i was doing a bit of reading and if that isn't holding the pressure, it isn't allowing for the system to be pressurized... the pressure is what increases the boiling point of the solution in the system. (don't rmemeber the exact numbers but for every 1psi of rad cap bypass you lose 2.3-2.5 degrees of cooling capacity)

Ya, when I got my 1.3 Bar I noticed FAR less overflow during hard running, if any at all.

 

[02p5]

Just an update on my situation.

My p5 stock water temp is still reading high, between the middle to H. Not reaching H at the moment, maybe due to the cooler weather or maybe from the things I have done so far. It's much more managable at the moment.

Replaced the thermostat, rad cap, engine coolant temp sensor, upgraded the driver side fan and had the coolant flushed with proper mixture.

The fan is turning on when the car isn't moving. My Microtech LT8S is controlling the fan. My dummy gauge reads about 95-97 C when the temp needle starts going up. No loss in oil nor coolant and no coolant and oil and vice-versa.

Any ideas?

 

[yashooa]

This will great for me because the MPI makes your stock gauge show high (at certain times) whenever it suddenly, richens the mixture.
It tricks the ECU so then the ECU causes the gauge to go high.
I really want a temp gauge so THANKS...(first)

 

[drivethruecp]

Just an update on my situation.

My p5 stock water temp is still reading high, between the middle to H. Not reaching H at the moment, maybe due to the cooler weather or maybe from the things I have done so far. It's much more managable at the moment.

Replaced the thermostat, rad cap, engine coolant temp sensor, upgraded the driver side fan and had the coolant flushed with proper mixture.

The fan is turning on when the car isn't moving. My Microtech LT8S is controlling the fan. My dummy gauge reads about 95-97 C when the temp needle starts going up. No loss in oil nor coolant and no coolant and oil and vice-versa.

Any ideas?

I am havining the same exact problem as you and tried all of the same things http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2721925#post2721925

 

[justanotheradikt]

ok so could i put a water temp guage on the high rad hose right before it goes into the rad and get a good reading? or does it have to be that spot?

 

[FL_PR5]

i put it in that direct spot and it reads fine for me. i've only had a few spikes when i was driving long distances during the summer. but other than that i had no problems. not sure about the hose you're talking about. someone else might know the answer to that. i chose this one because i remember somewhere someone mentioning that the flow of the coolant determines also a good spot.

 

[blueprotegelx]

wow, 150 is low that is like 65.5 C that is so low.

mine reads the same...car runs fine though. i've got a ractive gauge. actually it's between 145-150. i've got the ground to an interior spot, green running to the temp sensor, and positive, well i forget where i have the positive running. haha. it's been awile since i've hooked it up. but that's what it stays at. anyone else's opinion on this matter of reading?

 

[blueprotegelx]

mine reads the same...car runs fine though. i've got a ractive gauge. actually it's between 145-150. i've got the ground to an interior spot, green running to the temp sensor, and positive, well i forget where i have the positive running. haha. it's been awile since i've hooked it up. but that's what it stays at. anyone else's opinion on this matter of reading?

i also just remembered i have put in a different thermostat it's not the stock but lower heat range. they maybe why, plus i'm not sure what others mods everyone else has but i do have a sri as well. i think mine might be a 160, not sure though just remembered it was a different heat range to keep cooler

 

[igdrasil]

keep in mind that if you are tapping a closed circuit with another ckt, you are actually adding resistance or changing voltage readings. You need to isolate your ckt in order to get correct readings. I think a diode can do that.

 

[altspace]

Nice write up.