MSP Overheating

[VisualValues]

Ok, so my car started overheating yesterday. I haven't noticed any leaks but yesterday on my way home from work the temp gauge rose and my coolant overflow tank began to release steam.

To me that sounds like it would be a waterpump issue, but is it possible that it could just be the thermostat? (shrug) Anyone have the same symptoms before?

Also, it doesn't look like there's much room to get to the water pump and changing it is going to be a pain. Can anyone give any helpfull advice for changing the pump yourself?

Thanks in advance!

 

[justanothermp5]

changing the water pump is actually incredibly easy, it may be the thermostat too so if you havent replaced that you could probably do that at the same time

to change the pump, with the belt still on loosen the 4 10mm bolts on the pulley, then loosen/remove the belts and loosen the 12mm bolts holding on the pump, replace with new pump and gasket and install in reverse order

 

[VisualValues]

Thanks, I'm glad to hear it's not that difficult. It just looks like such a small place to work in. I installed car stereos for a while and the guys in the shop used to tease me because I have hot dog fingers.

I'm definetly going to change both the thermostat and the water pump at the same time.

 

[VisualValues]

Do I have to remove the timing belt as well? If so, is there anything special about the timing belt versus the other belts?

 

[justanothermp5]

no, you dont have to mess with the timing belt

 

[thecrash91]

the other belts are really easy to change. i was cruisin along and all the sudden my friend said he heard dragging. i didnt, so whatever. drove along and my temp gauge started rising like a mofo. pulled into a parking lot and popped the hood to find my coolant BOILING. no joke, a nice rolling boil in the overflow tank. looked around, BELTS SNAPPED. they were old as fuckk. replaced them in 1.5 hours because it was my first time ever changing a belt, and it took me 45 minutes ALONE finding the release screw for the alternator, i found were to tighten it, but it wouldnt budge without this screw, little advice, its alll the way in the back but you can reach it from the side of the engine, not too hard just feel around and youll get it.

 

[bazooka joe]

i'd start with the less costly and easier fixes...therm and test the rad cap as well!

 

[Sport23]

i'd start with the less costly and easier fixes...therm and test the rad cap as well!

+1 Replace rad cap and therm. Fill with premix and bleed out the air, then just drive it and see how it does. Also, make sure your water pump belt good and is tight.

 

[VisualValues]

Yeah, my belt is good and my fluids are topped off. When it overheats there is no steam that comes from the radiator cap, it only comes from the overflow container. I would imagine that if the cap was bad that I would be loosing presure and steam from there.

I think I'm just going to try the waterpump and thermostat right off the bat. Thank you to everyone for the great advice.

 

[njaremka]

its rair for a water pump to not work and cuase the cooling system to overheat. when a water pump goes, its ususally the seal around the shaft, not the impeller inside. if a waterpump is NOT leaking, then its fine.

i would just change the thermostat and the coolant mix, and leave the water pump alone.

 

[CTt3P5]

its rair for a water pump to not work and cuase the cooling system to overheat. when a water pump goes, its ususally the seal around the shaft, not the impeller inside. if a waterpump is NOT leaking, then its fine.

i would just change the thermostat and the coolant mix, and leave the water pump alone.

This and I'd also change the rad cap as well....they are cheap enough. What mileage are you at? Only asking as since you'll have the t-stat out and the coolant drained, it would be a good time to replace the rad hoses.

I had the same issues around this time last year, changed the t-stat, hoses, rad cap and the t-stat sensor and I've been fine since. All in all it set me back about $100 for OEM parts (sensor goes for approx $45).

 

[njaremka]

I had the same issues around this time last year, changed the t-stat, hoses, rad cap and the t-stat sensor and I've been fine since. All in all it set me back about $100 for OEM parts (sensor goes for approx $45).

i would say you could have gotten away with just the thermostat. the cap can be re-used, the sensor will throw a code when it gets out of spec, and if the hoses are not cracked you can leave em. heck, i'm at 172,000+ miles and the only thing on my cooling system i've changed is the fluid.

 

[CTt3P5]

I chose the better safe than sorry route. The cap was a few bucks as well as the hoses so I figured 'why not?'. About a week or so later, my car started to overheat again....not much but the needle was moving upward.... Someone suggested I change the sensor (no codes thrown)....I did and she's been running fine since. (shrug)

 

[bazooka joe]

please at least test the rad cap before doing anything else....a bad cap would not send "steam" out the cap...a bad cap means it's not holding to the correct temp..

 

[njaremka]

please at least test the rad cap before doing anything else....a bad cap would not send "steam" out the cap...a bad cap means it's not holding to the correct temp..

a bad cap means its not holding PRESSURE. the cap control the system pressure, the thermostat controls the temperature.

 

[bazooka joe]

a bad cap means its not holding PRESSURE. the cap control the system pressure, the thermostat controls the temperature.

thank you, i stand corrected! i meant pressure...it's the thermostat that you can actually test to see if it's controling the cprrect temp

 

[njaremka]

thank you, i stand corrected! i meant pressure...it's the thermostat that you can actually test to see if it's controling the cprrect temp

yup, just throw it in a pot and boil it with a thermometer.