MSP oil pressure install

I found a place that sells the Stainless Steel adapters that are needed for the oil pressure gauge.

Got to www.mcmaster.com

Search for the following part numbers on the site

part # 4092k11 is a 1/8" Bspt Male to 1/8" NPT F Adapter. This is what you would use if you did not want to use a "T" fitting and just plug the gauge sender directly into the block.

part # 4092K81 is a 1/8" NPT Male to 1/8" Bspt Male Nipple. This is what you would use if you wanted to use a "T" fitting to keep the stock oil pressure sensor.

part # 48805K97 is a SS "T" that has 3 1/8" NPT female sides for use with the male nipple adapter.

For those who have installed an oil pressure gauge are these the correct parts that I listed?

You guys are saying that if the factory oil pressure sensor is not plugged in the dash oil warning light will not come on?
 
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You guys are saying that if the factory oil pressure sensor is not plugged in the dash oil warning light will not come on?[/QUOTE]
Right, it will NOT light up the dash unplugged.
 
II-Savy said:
You guys are saying that if the factory oil pressure sensor is not plugged in the dash oil warning light will not come on?
Right, it will NOT light up the dash unplugged.
My buddy is a mechanic at Mazda and owns a MSP. He said that the disconnected wire will NOT produce a light.

Well I just completed 3 weeks of driving and an auto-x event. Still no failure of my setup.
 
I think my brass one let go again, right now it's pissing oil. Lasted a week or 2. I don't get it. I don't know exactly if the adapter is leaking or it's just the install. We will see tonight. I had a different guy do it the second time.
 
i thought you went with stainless steel fitting this time?

So either way we need a NPT to Bspt adapter to thread the sender into our block, I assume this is like metric vs SAE but in pipe terms? I just ordered this gauge (wanted SW but on major back order) and I want to get the right stuff. Is what JAsonMSP listed the right stuff? Thanks for the help.

Pete
 
hazeXban said:
i thought you went with stainless steel fitting this time?

So either way we need a NPT to Bspt adapter to thread the sender into our block, I assume this is like metric vs SAE but in pipe terms? I just ordered this gauge (wanted SW but on major back order) and I want to get the right stuff. Is what JAsonMSP listed the right stuff? Thanks for the help.

Pete
Actually I had already bought the brass one again so I gave it a try. (hand)

I'm going to order the fitting from ...that co listed before in this thread.

And yes I believe that fittings he suggested is what you need.
 
Damn sorry to hear that savy. hearing all this I will probably order the same things u do.
good luck.
 
Well I ordered the adapter and the tee from them. They are located in NJ too, had the option of going there and picking it up. The item number he has listed is wrong for the tee but I found it. He listed the same number 2 times
 
Well I just had a lovely evening, I sat waiting for triple A for 30 minutes on the side of rt5 in South Winsdor. Great fun watching 20 bucks worth of mobil 1 coat the road behind me.

So stock sender is back in and I have some cleaning to do.
 
P5 Rally said:
take the cover off the steering column and find the ignition harness (a bunch of thick wires and the harness is clipped to the ignition switch) ...
now that you found it, locate a red and black wire...that is the '2nd ignition' positon this is position that turns on the other gauges and radio and provides a 12v switched source.

Please solder the wires together
All that we could find for the ignition wire was a black and orange/brown wire. There was no red and black wire on there.

Matt
 
MazdaSpeed0020 said:
All that we could find for the ignition wire was a black and orange/brown wire. There was no red and black wire on there.

Matt
Dude don't hack apart your ignition harness. Run a wire to the drivers side small kick panal fuse panal. There are 2 unused open areas. Use a test light and look for the switched source. Run a fused line to that spot and plug your wire in. PM with any questions.
 
Do you think it is safe to drive the car with the wires hooked up to the ignition wire since no one seems to know what wire i am talking about. Not trying to say that in a bad way.

Matt
 
msp4you said:
Best thing is to NOT use the T however.

Since it's a 4 cylinder engine and there is a lot of vibration it's best to actualy run a -an fitting from the block out to the firewall, secure it there with a distribution block at the end. You would then hook up your sending units to the distribution block.

What this will prevent is hanging these huge jalopy's off the back of the engine block and risk stripping the threads out of the back of the block causing a dramatic loss of oil to the engine and risk blowing it up.
:)
has anyone done this? if so, please explain the process and the parts that you used. thanks
 
JasonMSP said:
....
part # 4092K81 is a 1/8" NPT Male to 1/8" Bspt Male Nipple. This is what you would use if you wanted to use a "T" fitting to keep the stock oil pressure sensor.

part # 4092K81 is a SS "T" that has 3 1/8" NPT female sides for use with the male nipple adapter.....
for the SS "T" should the part number be 48805K97 instead of 4092K81?
 
it is completely safe.....look a little closer cuz there are a hole bunch of wires running into a plastic clip...that is you ignition harness for the switch. No need to hack any wires either. just carefully remove the sheating with a knife and solder the wires then use some heat shrink and you're good to go. No problems



MazdaSpeed0020 said:
Do you think it is safe to drive the car with the wires hooked up to the ignition wire since no one seems to know what wire i am talking about. Not trying to say that in a bad way.

Matt
 
noclue119 said:
for the SS "T" should the part number be 48805K97 instead of 4092K81?
Yes in my original post I put the same part number twice. The correct one is 48805K97. Please note that I have not installed these parts, I just found the parts that I thought should work.
 
has anyone tried any adaptors that sandwich in between the oil filter and block? Just curious, i dont know the mazdas clearance. those are a nice solution. my friend used brass fittings for his turbo feed on his cavalier, and had the sender on it and it snapped off in his head. luckily i was clever and jammed a torx bit in there and was able to back it out. Brass is really soft, i wouldnt recommend it either.
 

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