MS6 Turbo Q?

[snooky]

I know nothing about turbos...

But how would one go about "tweeking their turbo"

do i have to buy and add extra parts for the engine, or is it a computer upgrade?

how much does it usualy cost to do? i want to get my MS6 to 300HP

I only have 7000kl on it.

Has anyone done this yet?

Thanks

Snooky

 

[jdub260]

The only "Tweaking the turbo" that I know o fis adding/upping boost. It has already been well documented in other threads that you can only get 1-2 more psi out of the stock turbo efficiently, which will help your cause.

The other options are getting a better BOV(one that won't leak at all) and adjusting the wastegate to suit your specific driving needs. ie. closing sooner to build boost faster.

Any way you look at it you should be able to reach 300HP with just a few bolt on's and a tune.

I'd say:
Turbo Back
Intake
Tune(Fuel map/timing/boost)

But remember HP is not the end all be all of being fast. At the risk of sounding preachy (climbs on to his soapbox) "You should really be shooting for a specific 1/4 mile time not a specific HP number." If you want a mid 12 sec car then keep adding bolt-on's till you get there, then dyno it and figure out how much HP you have.

I just have a hard time believing any HP numbers because all of them vary so much and most of them are "corrected" by some formula.

Anyway you choose to go I wish you the best of luck. (2thumbs)

 

[snooky]

The only "Tweaking the turbo" that I know o fis adding/upping boost. It has already been well documented in other threads that you can only get 1-2 more psi out of the stock turbo efficiently, which will help your cause.

The other options are getting a better BOV(one that won't leak at all) and adjusting the wastegate to suit your specific driving needs. ie. closing sooner to build boost faster.

Any way you look at it you should be able to reach 300HP with just a few bolt on's and a tune.

I'd say:
Turbo Back
Intake
Tune(Fuel map/timing/boost)

But remember HP is not the end all be all of being fast. At the risk of sounding preachy (climbs on to his soapbox) "You should really be shooting for a specific 1/4 mile time not a specific HP number." If you want a mid 12 sec car then keep adding bolt-on's till you get there, then dyno it and figure out how much HP you have.

I just have a hard time believing any HP numbers because all of them vary so much and most of them are "corrected" by some formula.

Anyway you choose to go I wish you the best of luck. (2thumbs)

thank you very much, but what exactly do you mean by bolt ons?

and when you say get a "BOV" i was told in another thread that BOV's dont add HP and can even lower it?

thanks sorry for all the Q's but im really a newB wen it comes to engine stuff...


thanks again

 

[CreatureCore]

The stock Bov is complete crap. It wont hold boost as well as an aftermarket one. And do you mean 300 whp or 300hp at the crank? 300hp at the crank should be really easy. At the wheels very tough. Depending on what dyno you use a stock mazda speed 6 will dyno from 220-240.

Bolt ons are "easy" to install parts that just bolt on to the car. The ones available for our car are cold air intakes, bovs, cat backs, test pipes, down pipes, front mount and top mount intercoolers, and short shifters.

Engine management units are also out, but are not plug and play and require cutting and splicing of wires. The ecu unit will prob give you the most power, but not many people are willing to play with there wires. If your fine with it itll get you the most power. But cpe is supposedly close to plug and play. I believe with a full turbo back and the cpe engine management they have dynoed a car at 270 whp with a conservative tune.

The best bang for your buck mod is prob the test pipe.

 

[snooky]

test pipe? like an exhaust? i thought it was just like a software update sumone could hook up to the cars computer.... do u think by addind the BOV and CAI it would give me a better boost?

 

[snooky]

is this a good BOV?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/HKS-SSQV-BOV-BLO...3QQihZ003QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[CreatureCore]

A test pipe is a part of the exhaust that you can use to eliminate the cat. Its one of the bolt ons available. You cant really just tweak a turbo. You need ecu management for that.

Ecu management is only just available for our car. And its not plug and play. At least not yet. Plug and play is when you just plug the unit strait into the ecu, the ones out now require you to cut and soder wires. Up to you if you want to do that. Like i said except for a few of the hardcore most would just rather wait the few months for the plug and play.

A cold air intake will give you more power, and a nicer sound (i guess thats more opinionated). The bov will help you hold boost better. The stock one will start to leak once you start modding. But a cold air intake will run you around 200-300 dollars. A test pipe 100. They both dyno around the same gains, thats why i said the test pipe is the best bang for the buck.

 

[CreatureCore]

Snooky if you like just to make it easier IM me on aim, my sn is creaturecore13

 

[snooky]

or this? http://cgi.ebay.ca/GREDDY-TYPE-RS-U...ryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[CreatureCore]

steetunit .com youll find tons of stuff for the speed6 there. Including there new ultimate blow off valve. But again thats not going to give you more power. Just not let boost leak once you start modding, so you hold your power better.

 

[jdub260]

The HKS and GReddy are pretty much the standard BOV's that everyone look's at. Theay are both WAY better than the stock BOV but each one has a distinctly different sound. Go to www.youtube.com and do some searches so you can hear both sounds then decide. Just remember the BOV WILL NOT add any HP by itself, it just won't leak when you start adding other parts and adding more boost, thus is will help you keep the extra HP that those other parts give you.

If you want HP just get the following and you'll be happy.

Full turbo back exhaust system(with or without cat's depending on emissions laws where you live.)
Cold Air Intake
New TMIC or FMIC(with a cryo cool kit if you wann go crazy)
Plug-n-Play tuner(when it becomes available)
Lighter weight wheels and sticky wider tires.(This won't add HP but lighter wheels will reduce rotating mass therfore reducing the amount of HP lost trying to spin the wheels, making the car accelerate faster.)

If all that don't get you to 300+WHP you'll be damn close.

then theres always a new turbo too.

 

[snooky]

The HKS and GReddy are pretty much the standard BOV's that everyone look's at. Theay are both WAY better than the stock BOV but each one has a distinctly different sound. Go to www.youtube.com and do some searches so you can hear both sounds then decide. Just remember the BOV WILL NOT add any HP by itself, it just won't leak when you start adding other parts and adding more boost, thus is will help you keep the extra HP that those other parts give you.

If you want HP just get the following and you'll be happy.

Full turbo back exhaust system(with or without cat's depending on emissions laws where you live.)
Cold Air Intake
New TMIC or FMIC(with a cryo cool kit if you wann go crazy)
Plug-n-Play tuner(when it becomes available)
Lighter weight wheels and sticky wider tires.(This won't add HP but lighter wheels will reduce rotating mass therfore reducing the amount of HP lost trying to spin the wheels, making the car accelerate faster.)

If all that don't get you to 300+WHP you'll be damn close.

then theres always a new turbo too.

thanks man,
i think fo rthe moment im just gonna start, with:

new engine mount (less flex)
test pipe
shorty shift
BOV
and plug n play, when it comes out.( how much do those run for btw?)

thanks guys

 

[B1GHAM]

thanks man,
i think fo rthe moment im just gonna start, with:

new engine mount (less flex)
test pipe
shorty shift
BOV
and plug n play, when it comes out.( how much do those run for btw?)

thanks guys

as much as I hate to admit it, you should be getting a CAI before a shoft shifter (which arent out yet, to my knowledge but I could be wrong).

the gains had on the MS6 and the MS3 definately make a CAI worth it as the stock intakes are pretty restrictive (moreso in the MS6 to reduce noise and refine the vehicle).

 

[snooky]

I know but to tell u the truth, i really dont wanna spend too much on my car, because its a lease. most of the stuff im gonna do are under or around 100$ each (except the PNP) and i dont want my car to sound loud and ricey yano? my last car had everythig, borla full exhaust, CAI,.... and it sounded like a tornado was comming down the block lol. I figure with the test pipe and BOV the car will sound just right.

By the way, I really dont mean any disrespevt to those who have CAI....

But i work at a stiff office and i wouldnt look too professional with my car sounding like that...

when i had my p5, I use to say, "as long as my next car has over 200hp, ill B fine..." now i have 274HP! and its still not enough, whats wrong with me?

 

[CreatureCore]

Short shifter is already out for our car, and the pnp will prob run around 800 when it comes out.

 

[snooky]

Short shifter is already out for our car, and the pnp will prob run around 800 when it comes out.

WOW forget that lol im broke lol

 

[B1GHAM]

thanks man,
i think fo rthe moment im just gonna start, with:

new engine mount (less flex)
test pipe
shorty shift
BOV
and plug n play, when it comes out.( how much do those run for btw?)

thanks guys

LMAO - a CAI isnt going to make your car sound ricey, it will however actually give you the idea that an engine is in the car...

as far as the car being a lease... you said you would put a PnP kit and an engine mount in the car, but wont put a CAI? CAIs can be removed/installed in an hour and is 10x easier to do than a testpipe short shift or a PnP...

Im confused by your logic. As a leased car however, Id stick to the quick n' easy boltons... esp ones that will sell should you decide to give the car back.

 

[snooky]

LMAO - a CAI isnt going to make your car sound ricey, it will however actually give you the idea that an engine is in the car...

as far as the car being a lease... you said you would put a PnP kit and an engine mount in the car, but wont put a CAI? CAIs can be removed/installed in an hour and is 10x easier to do than a testpipe short shift or a PnP...

Im confused by your logic. As a leased car however, Id stick to the quick n' easy boltons... esp ones that will sell should you decide to give the car back.

i agree with what ur saying fully, but when you look at it on a finacial point.:

CAI $200 - $300

engine mount $70 - 115

test pipe $115

Short shift ( think im just gonna cut and re solder at end of lease) i know it wont affect the performance but it will look nice.


test pipe and engine mount I was told were simple bolt ons that can be removed in under 15min....

to be honest if i had the money, the first thing i would do is CAI, change the exhaust, BOV, real short shift, and PnP... I would have no doubt 300HP or more. but for now im stickin to the easey cheap things.


I know im crazy

 

[snooky]

one more Q,
in the youtube vids I saw of the test pipe, a lot of smoke came out of the exhaust is that because they removed the cat?

 

[Speed Kid037]

yo bro just go on street unit .com and there is alot of parts for that car. first thing 2 do is get a bov and a cai so ur car can breath better and hold more boost that is feel important.