just asking for an opinion but whos pump is considered better cpe or pg?
The two companies do not use the same internals. From what i have heard and the graphs that are floating around the PG pump flows a lot more.
just asking for an opinion but whos pump is considered better cpe or pg?
The two companies do not use the same internals. From what i have heard and the graphs that are floating around the PG pump flows a lot more.
Its a needed mod if you plan on making power. As for the install, i have done so many of them that i can do the whole swap in under 15 min.
Ahhh the famous book hours. What an easy life it must be to be a certified mechanic. Almost 2 hours of pay for something any gearhead can do in minutes. Serioisly there are 2 plastic clips that come off in seconds. They literally snap on and off. Those are forthe low pressure feed and return lines to the cdfp. Then there is the nut that holds the high pressure hard line on the bottom of the pump. I use a small adjustable wrench on this, and once again i is off in seconds. Now all that is left are the 3 star head bolts that hold the pump itself. For this .... Maybe a minute and a half, if you turn slowly. Now pull and wiggle. Depending on how the pumps spring/shaft is sitting on the cam it may slip right out, or it may put up a fight! Allow a few minutes to wiggle it out. Then thats half the job! What are we, 6-7 minutes in now? Ok grab the new pump and put it right back where the stocker came from. Again it may slide right in or it may take some persuasion. I like to re-attach the lower hard line first. Since it is a solid line it is easier to attach to the pump while it is still loose. If you cant move the line move the pump! Once thats on put those 3 bolts back in nice and snug and clip the rubber fuel lines back on. Done ! If i were to charge you 1.7 book hours i would have time to go for a "quality assurance" ride. AKA beating the piss out of your car.. For about an hour and a half !How about a DIY procedure? I'd like to read how you're able to do this in 15 minutes, when the TSB to replace the fuel pump allows 1.7 hours by a trained Mazda mechanic. What's your secret? Looks pretty complicated if you follow the service manual.
On the speed, there are two pumps. The one in the tank appears up to the task. This is the cam driven high pressure pump mounted on the side of the block.So you don't have to drop the fuel tank? When you said 15 minutes, I thought maybe there were two pumps, but I could only find the one in the tank. Is this one not in the tank? Pardon the dumb question, but I'm not that familiar with the innards of the 3.
On the speed, there are two pumps. The one in the tank appears up to the task. This is the cam driven high pressure pump mounted on the side of the block.
Hmm. It seems to me that as long as there is positive pressure to the input of the CDFP, you should be fine. Don't let me stop you, but it is a lot of work, and I'll bet you don't see any performance improvement. Just thinkin....Correct the mrlilguy pump replaces the cam driven pump found only on the speed 3/6/cx7 with the DISI engine.
As far as the intank pump being up to speed.... I dont know abou that. It is a single 155lph pump. That is very weak! Most NA 4 cyl. cars use a pump that size or bigger. For a few bolt ons its ok i guess. I am at the point now of being at its limits. I am beginin to see a dip in my fuel pressure, on the low side before cdfp. Pressure there shoils always be about 70psi. Mine dips to about 60 on cold days with big boost. I am going to buy a boost a pump from kenne bell to solve this problem!
I have the pump from protege garage and absolutly love it.. it didn't solve my "cut" issues but once i got my Cobb AP that was fully taken care of.
I would recommend getting the fuel pump from PG.. they are awesome and if you plan on making over 300whp or so. its a must.
Good point. Indeed if you are starting to drop pressure before the CDFP it indicates you are close to the edge. If you are increasing output beyond what you have now, indeed you better upgrade the in-tank pump.Im no looking for a performance gain from it. I am looking to not blowing my engine because i run out of fuel. For the cdfp all that matters is pressure. If you get fuel to it, it will pressurize it and you are all good. But what happens if you dont get enough fuel to it? You cant pressurize what isnt there. Like i said the cdfp relies on pressure, the pump in the tank must supply the volume. If it cant get out of the tank fast enough it cant get pressurized. The cdfp can only work with what it is given. If the pressure going into it drops too low it wont be able to create sufficient pressure. In the end you either run dangerously lean or just flat run out of fuel and blow up. Like i mentioned i rigged up an inline fuel pressure gauge i had from my old mustang to see what my pressure was like. Under most conditions it holds right at 70psi like it should. In cold weather with high boost i can already see the pump running out. The pressure falls a full 10psi. Just imagine if i added more mods or raised the boost. Not to mention the wet nitrous kit i am getting pulls fuel from the low pressure side to feed the nitrous addition. I would run that pump dry.
To make it easy.. let me say this from first hand experience.
If you have a modded speed3 get an upgraded pump.
really? I haven't noticed any issues with my car yet. I figured my mild mods are not a big deal. Dashhawk logs haven't shown a lack of fuel yet.
I have intake, catted dp, and ap beta. Future mods are FMIC. I'll be done with it then as far as power goes.
ok so i know you cant tell for sure but with a full tbe/intake/plugs/redline fluid/cobb ap and in the future a pg manifold.......would i be running intoa problem or should i be set for now? i will eventually be getting eithe r the kit or the actual pump but i dont like my zoom zoom to go well....you know....
edit. also have turbo inlet. thanks.