MPI Tunner Issue

In closed loop and no boost, the car likes to run stoich. If you get some bad fuel and hit a little leaner of a mixture with no boost, it's no that big of a deal. The motor won't blow a little lean and no boost. Now if you have the same bad gas and get lean in boost, then you need to watch out.

That's where the J&S comes in, if/when you get a bad tank you don't have to worry about it because it will protect against the knock. You never know when you will get a bad tank of gas. Man, I don't even have it installed yet and I am already pumped about it.

Good to hear you got the wiring worked out. It just goes to show that the human error is a big part in anything you do. I have not needed to retune my map because of any ECU relearning. My s*** is fat and happy so once you have it dialed in, you're set.

BTW, I think you can do 10psi if you want, just take out some extra timing to be safe. I have been at 8psi on this T3/T4 since day one and NO issues. 10psi will come when the J&S is in!
 
hehe cant wait to have it in
 

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Awesome news! That gives me higher hopes that when I put mine back in I will discover that something wasn't hooked up right the first time.

Happy boosting.:)
 
StuttersC said:
This stuff slightly concerns me.

One side says it works great, but another side is having problems.

I've been thinking about what to go with for so long I'm thinking of doing something totally different and going one-off for engine management because of the inconsistencies here.

The MPI works, but only if it is hooked up right and tuned exactly correct. I am no good with electrical stuff, so I'd have to pay someone for hooking it up. But I don't know if the person I have do it will get it exactly right. Then what?

The tuning side I'm not to concerned with. But, if I have a problem, what then? Is my car rboken, not hooked up right or the tuning?

It seems if you get the MPI, you have to have Nick hook it up and set it up in order for it to run exactly the way it should. I don't think it should be that way.

This is just my opinion though. And I am subscribing to see how this all plays out.
Are you reading this thread still? Have I made my point about checking things out to make sure all is 100% with the car?
 
LinuxRacr said:
Get forged 1st bro! I would.
pistons/rods will have to wait until next year for me

i bought the wideband and j&s now because focus was ordering them too and we got a better price for buying 2. Now we're doing a small group buy here in quebec for the MPI, so i have to buy it now if i wana get the best price ... then i'll put the car away for the winter. hopefully ill have my exhaust pistons and rods ready for next summer =)
 
Nothing too new on my condition.. My clutch is so bad I can't even go into boost without it slipping so I've been doing ALOT of driving under no boost at all, but am happy wiht my A/F's and the TM seems to turn on right when it needs to.
 
Wow that sucks!

Still on stocker! With 50k on her!
Make sure to atleast upgrade to stage 2 clutch.
That's my plans by next summer.

Chas
 
No doubt mang it sucks BAAAD... My stock clutch lasted 11K after boosting it. This one has also lasted 11K, but it was "supposed" to be able to hand the power. It is a CM stage 2-R..... Blah didn't last for s***.

Now goes in the Spec Stage 3 hybrid- good for 450 ponies AND the mazdaspeed LSD :) Then I'll start tuning again. Plan to run it at the track on the 25th. I'll need to make maps for the 104 octane gas I'll be running.
 
MPNick said:
Are you reading this thread still? Have I made my point about checking things out to make sure all is 100% with the car?

Yep, still reading. Glad to see his issues were fixed.

However, I still have some concerns...
 
StuttersC said:
Yep, still reading. Glad to see his issues were fixed.

However, I still have some concerns...
What's the concerns? It does everything that Nick says it does, and has been proved. Is it that you just want more info on how it does it? Research is a good thing, but I think the info and proof is out there on it.
 
StuttersC said:
Yep, still reading. Glad to see his issues were fixed.

However, I still have some concerns...
Yep. what concerns.?

Its simple. In my setup. Im using the FM clamp. I can add fuel thru either my stock injectors or extra injectors. The only thing is that I can only add a limited amount of fuel thru the stock injectors IF im using the FM clamp.

You want to add more fuel, enough for 10+psi, with stock injectors, then you will need the TM from Nick.
 
I agree. Only concerns or faults have always been human error. like in everyones case that were having issues. The tuner itself has always worked 100%. Its the lack of experience that is causing the issues.
 
Bigg Tim said:
What's the concerns? It does everything that Nick says it does, and has been proved. Is it that you just want more info on how it does it? Research is a good thing, but I think the info and proof is out there on it.
My main concern still remains that the ECU is still learning around the changes. It has been said on here numerous times that you make small changes with the MPI and let it run for a few days and then make some more changes and let in run for a few days and so on until the ECU finally stops adjusting the changes you've made.
 
ive been running 1500 miles since i had this map in my MPI, AFRs are still the same...

the ecu will always learn your driving habits, but remember, the MPI throws fuel that the ECU doesnt know about?

im a n00b forgive me if thats not 100% right
 
StuttersC said:
My main concern still remains that the ECU is still learning around the changes. It has been said on here numerous times that you make small changes with the MPI and let it run for a few days and then make some more changes and let in run for a few days and so on until the ECU finally stops adjusting the changes you've made.
Im not going to lie about this...you know it. But yes, That COULD happen IF you are continuosly resetting the ECU and trying to tune the stock injectors alone with boost.

That also happens when you have too rich values and letting the ECU seeing it. For example, if you try to run rich on vacuum, the ECU will start pulling fuel in that place until reaching 14.7:1 or whatever she wants to see. And if you try again again again to put it where you want, you will have an endless fight with the stock ECU. You must find the right numbers for your specific setup.

When going into boost, if you have extra injectors, you will have the A/F desired but it will also depend on what numbers you have in the analog map.

Let me tell you, if the ECU still keeps learning things, then theres a problem with the wiring.

Take me as an example, my ECU was learning everything, even under boost, it was giving me ignition cuts just because I tried to fight and fight against it, not knowing I had some bad wiring....but the clamp was there working ok.

So...oh well...there is.
 
StuttersC said:
My main concern still remains that the ECU is still learning around the changes. It has been said on here numerous times that you make small changes with the MPI and let it run for a few days and then make some more changes and let in run for a few days and so on until the ECU finally stops adjusting the changes you've made.
Okay, that's a valid concern. Like what has been said above, when you dial in your map you should be set and not have to worry about relearning. I have not reset my ECU since I replaced my battery back in the winter. The only changes I did to my map was to lean it out because I never really finished it.

My ECU has not effected the map yet and this one is about 2 months old. I look at the A/F ratio's and they are the same as when I did the map before, in certain unchanged areas. (I noted what they were when I did the map so I could see if they changed).

When you first put it in, you will need to make changes to the map for your setup and run the car. Check it to make sure there are no changes and make changes if needed. Then when you do not need to make anymore changes you will be good to go. I think you would only need to do this maybe once or twice, but during that time you will probably be making changes to fine tune the unit. The main key to sucess is correct wiring and enough patience to learn the SW so you get a good tune map.
 
ok so how do you fine tune the map if you have to wait days after making every changes ?

I'm getting it soon so im trying to get as many info as possible to not screw anything up =)
 
One thing I know that has gave me issues is the damn exhaust leaks that stick around on my ride. If you have exhaust leaks, you WILL have tuning issues.
 

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