I agree, when your tank is filled from nearly empty you can sometimes notice a fuel quality difference (either in MPG or subtle differences in the smoothness and response of the engine). When the tank is still almost half full when refueling the dilution of the new fuel makes differences much less noticeable.
The last tank (and the last 4 of 5 tanks) was unbranded 87 octane with which I've been getting consistently good results. I think it's a good strategy to stick with a station that you've been getting good results from (but switch as soon as you notice less than ideal results). You may find the station that was not so good last month is now excellent. But convenience plays into it also since I refuse to travel out of my way simply to fuel.BTW, my complete fuelling history is available via my Fuelly sig (only visible on the first post on each page).
Not sure if the computer recalculates upon AC usage but based on how often I refuel its actually in the 26-27 range.
The computer does take into account the effect of the air conditioner on MPG due to the way it uses the fuel injection pulse width to calculate consumption.
It's always puzzled my why a car's trip computer mpg readout is not exactly accurate. The ECM knows exactly how much fuel is used, based on the injector pulse trigger width, and the distance measurement is at least as accurate as the odometer. Divide one by the other and quod erat demonstrandum!
From what I've read, it seems the CX-5 computer is pretty accurate (not done enough miles to verify myself), but my previous cars (Audi with multiport FI and GM with DI) were both horribly inaccurate. What gives?
It's always puzzled my why a car's trip computer mpg readout is not exactly accurate. The ECM knows exactly how much fuel is used, based on the injector pulse trigger width, and the distance measurement is at least as accurate as the odometer. Divide one by the other and quod erat demonstrandum!
From what I've read, it seems the CX-5 computer is pretty accurate (not done enough miles to verify myself), but my previous cars (Audi with multiport FI and GM with DI) were both horribly inaccurate. What gives?
We just hit 7k in our 2013 AWD and my wife is getting 31-32 all city/country road driving. It was consistently around 27-28 and after hit 6k it just shot up. Im loving it.
Did the increase in MPG coincide with the end of your N.E. winter? I know my MPG is better than ever now that summer is in full force and I am no longer making regular trips up the ski mountain through slush, sleet, etc. (even though the warm sunny weather requires A/C). You can see my MPG history by clicking my fuelly.com banner. Currently the 9,600 mile lifetime average is 32.0 mpg, way better than the EPA estimated average of only 28 mpg. My last two tanks were 37.5 mpg and 34.2 mpg. It makes me wonder how much better it would be had I opted for 2WD instead of AWD.
I think I smile more when I drive knowing I don't need to dump so much money in my tank just to do the things I want to do.
I'm getting an average of 10.4 L / 100km, which works around 22.5 mpg (pretty crappy) 90% city / 10% hwy, but at the same time I only have around 700km to the engine, and haven't passed the break in period yet. I'm hoping to see better MPG's after more fill ups. Currently only at 2 fill ups, and I tend to fill up when there's 1/4 tank of gas left.
It'll get better as the engine wears in but you're doing 90% city driving so the extra fuel consumption of the 2.5L will make itself more apparent than if you were doing mostly freeway driving. The 2.0L really shines in city driving mpg, more so than the difference in the 2.0 vs. 2.5 EPA estimates indicate. But your's will improve with break-in. I also suspect the break-in oil is slightly different formula than what is otherwise available and is not quite as slippery. So it should improve a little after the first oil change (I recommend the Moly 0-20).
I am a big fan of wearing in engines by using them moderately hard. Which is best done on faster roads and in the mountains. Opening the throttle up and letting the engine spin wears everything in nice and smoothly. Rings and valves will seal better and carbon will be kept to a minimum. No need to floor it or go all the way to redline but 3/4 of the way there will help everything seal tight and stay nice and clean. Gotta get that puppy a little hot to wear it in properly. My mileage is good precisely because I don't baby it when I need to accelerate and I never hesitate to run it hard once in a while to keep it clean.
Mike is this the same product? https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
I mentioned a few months ago I had my oil changed at a certain unnamed Mazda dealership. They used Pennzoil not to mention used too much oil. So I took the car to another dealership, which happens to the product in the link above for them to do a correct oil change. Will be going to them fo now on .