Using fuel with too low of an octain rating is worse than using one with a higher octain rating (compartively speaking from the MFG's reccomendation). If the octain rating is too low, then predetonation (pinging) can, and most often will, be the result. It's especially dangerous on FI setups where timing is critical. Predetonation usually breaks things (ughdance) .Pesty said:
MP3 ECU reflash
- Thread starter TopSecP5
- Start date
any one ever dyno that, its possible they are under rated. Also are there mutiple MP3 codes? i know for us S/R's there are 5 but 2 are 3more hp then the other 3 codes and have a much better 2-4k rmp power.
sorry for the questions lol just looking into the parallels of the S/R and MP3 lol
so far it sems the mp3 would possibly edge out the S/R in autoX (better swaybar and coming stock with a strutbar) but it seems the S/R has almost a second on the MP3 in the 1/4 (which seems big to me i thought it would be closer)
sorry for the questions lol just looking into the parallels of the S/R and MP3 lol
so far it sems the mp3 would possibly edge out the S/R in autoX (better swaybar and coming stock with a strutbar) but it seems the S/R has almost a second on the MP3 in the 1/4 (which seems big to me i thought it would be closer)
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Escort ZX2 S/R
1999- 100 made
Roush intake
Carbon Fiber shift knob
Leather shift boot
B&M Short throw shifter
Centerforce Performance Clutch
Visteon PCM
Tokico Struts
Energy Suspension Bushings
Eibach Lowering Spring
Borla exhaust
Escort GT wheels: 205/55ZR15 Goodyear Eagle
Rear disc brakes
Silver gauge surround
150MPH (240KPH) speedometer
Available in: Zinc Yellow
2000 - 2000 made
Same as above except:
S/R (daisy/Tracer ls Sport) wheels
Ford Blue valve cover
Iceman Intake (blue)
Leather Shift knob
Available in: 1000 Zinc Yellow, 500 Bright Red, 500 Black
143-146hp 140tq - mostly from the computer
1999- 100 made
Roush intake
Carbon Fiber shift knob
Leather shift boot
B&M Short throw shifter
Centerforce Performance Clutch
Visteon PCM
Tokico Struts
Energy Suspension Bushings
Eibach Lowering Spring
Borla exhaust
Escort GT wheels: 205/55ZR15 Goodyear Eagle
Rear disc brakes
Silver gauge surround
150MPH (240KPH) speedometer
Available in: Zinc Yellow
2000 - 2000 made
Same as above except:
S/R (daisy/Tracer ls Sport) wheels
Ford Blue valve cover
Iceman Intake (blue)
Leather Shift knob
Available in: 1000 Zinc Yellow, 500 Bright Red, 500 Black
143-146hp 140tq - mostly from the computer
- :
- 02.5 MP5
so is nebody certain yet as to if you have to have the hoses or whatever or just flash and exhaust?
can ne mazda dealership do this?
can ne mazda dealership do this?
NJP5Guy said:
I know, turbo and high compression need higher. But neither my prelude (when my
mother owned it), my father's I30, mothers G35(all take 91+) or anyone that
I know has ever had a problem. I will concede that I have yet to meet anyone
with a turbo who puts low octaine fuel in their car.
Personally I did notice a diference with MPG and power running 93 over 87 in the
'lude, and aside from one tank, (to verify that it was running better after I got it
and started putting 93 in it, than the 6 previous years that my mom was putting
87 in it and I wasn't just smoking crack), I always put 93 in it (91 is hard to
find it Dallas). Personally, Ive told them they should use at least the mfg.
recomended, but they haven't seen any problems, and don't want to pay Cali.
prices for higher grade fuel. I can't say I really blame them, I can get 93
cheaper than they can get 87.
Octane
I have had several cars that had turbos (none of them Mazdas admittedly). '02 GTI 337, '02 Beetle 1.8T and another that I am totally spacing out about right now, WTF??? Any how, ALL of their owner's manuals said they need a minimum of 89 octane (CDN spec), which beleive is 91 US spec (we are (MIN + RON)/2 and you guys are just RON I think???).
However, one day I opened "USA Today" or "The New York Times", and on the second page there was this huge article about the hoax that higher octance gas was these days. They quoted engineers and CEO's of Chevron, Shell, Texaco, Esso and Enron. They all said there was no need to run anything above basic gas in ANY car (they included 911 Turbos and Enzos in their ANY - however if you can afford one of these cars and are putting 87 octane in, you deserve the death penalty
) because car computers are so advanced today they can all deal with pinging. And if the computer can't any garage with a computer interface could adjust the timing anyhow.
The one exception they made to this was... People who tuned the crap out of their car, and people racing their car. One CEO (I think it was Shell) quoted some huge test they did on a 911 turbo. He said that after driving the s*** out of the car on 87, then 93 octane, they only noticed a 4-5% difference in horsepower, and that's in a "super car". So for everyday driving in 99% of the vehicles out there, it is simply a way for manufacturers to either make their car sound special ("you need to run higher octane in an engine this sophisticated") or to alleviate any need to adjust the timing at all.
In older carburated cars it was much more neccessary to run higher octane, as far as I'm aware.
For what it's worth, I have only ever run mid grade and higher despite reading this article. Either it's piece of mind, or the fact I love feeding my babies "Perrier"!!! (thumb)
I have had several cars that had turbos (none of them Mazdas admittedly). '02 GTI 337, '02 Beetle 1.8T and another that I am totally spacing out about right now, WTF??? Any how, ALL of their owner's manuals said they need a minimum of 89 octane (CDN spec), which beleive is 91 US spec (we are (MIN + RON)/2 and you guys are just RON I think???).
However, one day I opened "USA Today" or "The New York Times", and on the second page there was this huge article about the hoax that higher octance gas was these days. They quoted engineers and CEO's of Chevron, Shell, Texaco, Esso and Enron. They all said there was no need to run anything above basic gas in ANY car (they included 911 Turbos and Enzos in their ANY - however if you can afford one of these cars and are putting 87 octane in, you deserve the death penalty
) because car computers are so advanced today they can all deal with pinging. And if the computer can't any garage with a computer interface could adjust the timing anyhow.The one exception they made to this was... People who tuned the crap out of their car, and people racing their car. One CEO (I think it was Shell) quoted some huge test they did on a 911 turbo. He said that after driving the s*** out of the car on 87, then 93 octane, they only noticed a 4-5% difference in horsepower, and that's in a "super car". So for everyday driving in 99% of the vehicles out there, it is simply a way for manufacturers to either make their car sound special ("you need to run higher octane in an engine this sophisticated") or to alleviate any need to adjust the timing at all.
In older carburated cars it was much more neccessary to run higher octane, as far as I'm aware.
For what it's worth, I have only ever run mid grade and higher despite reading this article. Either it's piece of mind, or the fact I love feeding my babies "Perrier"!!! (thumb)
- :
- '08 Jetta; '10 Wrangler Unlimited
we just got my g/f a new jetta with the 1.8T. the car runs fine on regular with her driving it and i have her run every other fill up wth 89. might run a higher octane if i was driving the car but she does not drive it hard. she gets worried above 4k when the boost is on......blizzard said:
i drove a 86' 900 turbo from 94-98 and it could run on 87-93. i ran the mid grade......
- :
- 02.5 MP5
so is this thread like hijacked now or ?
It's fairly simple... octane is a matter of tuning. There is never going to be a pre-ordained minimum necessary due to temperature/elevation/climate/driving conditions/mods, etc. recommendations are made based on being overly safe, yes. A good frined of mine has a mildly modded (intake/header/exhaust) sentra spec V that runs like CRAP if you put anything but 91 in it, I personally never run anything higher than minimum because I've not had a need forit. Eitherway it's quite easy to tell, try it. If your car runs fine on lower octane, then run it and be happy knowing that you're not throwing away money for additives that essentially decrease efficency. If it runs bad, try higher grade. EItherway, high quality means alot more than high octane rating. I personally try to stick with chevron unless there's no other choice. I've noticed about 1-2mpg more on average vs cheapie brands on every car I've ever owned.
As for the specific application. WE've already heard form one mp3 owner who says it's not necc.. I'd be curious to hear what others say. perhaps a post in the mp3 section is warranted.?
As for the specific application. WE've already heard form one mp3 owner who says it's not necc.. I'd be curious to hear what others say. perhaps a post in the mp3 section is warranted.?
Yea, better quality brand will do more for ya than higher than recomended octaine. Additives will be the same for the same brand regardless of octaine rating. All that the octaine rating means is how easily the fuel burns. Lower = easier = lower compression. You put high octaine fuel in a low comression engine, you are leaving fuel un-burnt and getting nothing as far as extra additives or performance/economy. Alternatively if you use too low an octaine, you MAY see less performance/economy, or even pinging (especially on carbed engines). But lower quality fuels (ie: 7-11 or racetrack) are what will leave you with deposits on intakes/injectors.
