Mobil 1 Oil filter results

[cougar10agREDUX]

Just remembered this and thought i would post. anyway back in the day i did some oi filter research on the construction of oil filters, and through the results of tests i determined IMO that for me i lked the purolator PUREONE filters. quality, has the textured paint which makes changing them a breeze. well one oil change the PUREONE filters were not in stock and after much debate i picked up a Mobil 1 filter. now a while ago i saw that their filters were decent i construction. but now it seems they have redesigned them.

now on to why i purchased the Mobil 1 filter. the PUREONE filter, while very good IMO is the same size as the stock filter. the Mobil 1 filter is noticably smaller. depending on the type and contruction of the filter media a smaller filter would have less overall filter area. Mobil 1 claims more than other brands. but that is not the reason. using a smaller oil filter will acually increase oil pressure, and obviously a larger one will decrease it. If theres any of you honda guys out there you might remember years ago around 2000 i think, honda switching to a much smaller oil filter for the integra. IIRC honda did it for cost/manufacturing reasons, as well as to bump up the oil pressure.

now the results. as everyone is aware extended highway driving will drop the oil pressure. running the PUREONE filter and mobil 1 5w30 at 60mph for 2 hrs my oil pressure would drop to about 38 PSI. at 70 it was about 41 psi. running the mobil 1 filter and 5w30, at 60mph for 2 hrs it would stay solid at about 43 psi and at 70mph it would be at about 48 psi. i have not be anble to record the oil pressure up to redline with the two filters, but as you can see from the trend it should be higher up top as well.

last oil change i went with the mobil 1 filter and penzoil's synthetic 5w30 cuz it was on sale and i felt like tryin something else. i noticed a 2-3psi drop in oil pressure. next change i'm going back to mobil 1. i keep forgetting to order more redline oil.

 

[Speed3.5]

Hmmmm, I get 60 psi all the time past 55mph even after 4hr on highway at 75mph, I almost got 400mi out of full tank as well lol

I do use K&N oil filter and was using Mobil 0w40 at the time, around may of this yr.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

haha damn, you using a high flow oil pump? stock tranny?

 

[jmv]

i have been using a wix filter, the one designed for the mazda V6 thats larger. In a study i read wix did real well, hopefully they still have a good product... and i went for the bigger filter obviously for more filtering capacity, and i just add a bit more oil than i would otherwise.

 

[Sveivo]

Is this why using a 626 V6 filter is not a "better" option? I knew there was a reason!! I guess bigger is not always better.

I have a question. Why is higher oil pressure better?

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

theres pros and cons.
smaller filter will bump oil pressure but obviously cannot hold as much crap before clogging. if you use a good filter, and change your oil religiously at 3k miles (most filters and synthetic oils are designed for 7k mile oil changes now) it won't be a problem.

running a larger oil filter may drop oil pressure, but will increase oil capacity which will allow a slightly longer time for the oil to cool before getting recirculated.

in reguads to oil pressure, the FSDE has a very inefficient oil system. the oil pump design causes cavitation in the pump hen holding mid-high rpms for extended periods. this drops the oil pressure, which will result in insufficient oiling which will lead to spun bearings, and damaged cyls.

higher oil pressure will obviously flow more oil. rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1k rpms. so at 4k rpms you should have 40psi. at 6k rpms you should have 60psi

 

[Sveivo]

theres pros and cons.
smaller filter will bump oil pressure but obviously cannot hold as much crap before clogging. if you use a good filter, and change your oil religiously at 3k miles (most filters and synthetic oils are designed for 7k mile oil changes now) it won't be a problem.

running a larger oil filter may drop oil pressure, but will increase oil capacity which will allow a slightly longer time for the oil to cool before getting recirculated.

That's what I figured, but is there any benefit to having higher oil pressure rather than lower?

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

That's what I figured, but is there any benefit to having higher oil pressure rather than lower?

i edied my last post ater i caught u asked that

 

[Sveivo]

i edied my last post ater i caught u asked that

Sweet, thanks! (headbang)

 

[Speed3.5]

I have never opened the engine yet , got it with 20k miles but dealer stated it was bone stock so to my knowledge I have a stock oil pump.
My understanding is the engine is still healthy at just 55k miles, survived couple of beating on the street and down at 1/4 runs.

Efficiency of the oil filter is determined by its psi by-pass level,
Porsche K&N oil filters have 23+ psi by-pass rating, MSP has 12-17 psi again from K&N oil filters that is. bigger doesn't mean it will be always better you have to match the by-pass rate/level of the filter as well.<cite> </cite>

 

[jmv]

Am i wrong in thinking that you could raise oil pressure by simply adding more oil?? I've done that as a precaution while using the V6 oil filters. And, does anyone have any idea how much extra oil equates to how much extra pressure, if my idea is correct??

 

[dmention7]

I may be wrong here, but I believe your reasoning is incorrect with regards to higher oil pressure = better, in the context of the effect an oil filter has on pressure. At least, depending on where you are measuring oil pressure.

If a smaller oil filter results in a higher oil pressure (I assume this is measured upstream of the filter...), then the implication is that the filter is providing a higher resistance to flow. All else equal, this means that the volumetric flow of oil through the filter is equal or less than the larger filter, and same for the oil pressure downstream of the filter.


Does that make sense or am I missing/making incorrect assumptions?

 

[sailinMSP]

with this topic up! what do you guys think of the Fram filters used with Castrol fully synthetic oil?

 

[jmv]

All studies i've seen said Fram filters were crap. I use castrol full synthetic, i know its not the best oil but from what i've read and in my own personal experience it works pretty well. I'd love to use royal purple or amsoil or the like, but i can't afford it.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

im measuing pressure from the stock location, same place i have my turbo's oil feed.

and yes, fram is garbage.

if im not mistaken, the bypass valve on the filter is only there to protect the filter. if pressure exceeds it's rating the valve opens allowing oil to bypass the filter, thus allowing unfiltered oil into the engine. it would seem a better designed filter would have a higher rated valve.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

All studies i've seen said Fram filters were crap. I use castrol full synthetic, i know its not the best oil but from what i've read and in my own personal experience it works pretty well. I'd love to use royal purple or amsoil or the like, but i can't afford it.

royal purple is junk. amsoil is good

 

[Outlawstar98]

I use K&N oil filter, which I have always used and loved.

and I am using Royal Purple, and I dont see why you say its junk? so far its GREAT for me.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

I use K&N oil filter, which I have always used and loved.

and I am using Royal Purple, and I dont see why you say its junk? so far its GREAT for me.

royal purple isn't a true synthetic, but they price it like it is, i forgot how RP makes their oil but it's bsiclly a mineral oil. same as mobil 1. mobil 1 used to be a full synthetic, they have since switched to a oil using a hydrocracked mineral oil base and added some synthetic oil. i forget the ratio tho. castrol developed the hydrocracking process which is just taking a mineral oil and through the process realigns the molecules to make them more consistant. but this is not a true synthetic. i know once cosumers found out about mobil 1 it blew up and spread like wild fire. i don't know if they switched back. i do know mobil 1 is one of the better hybrids.

there different classifications for the API groups of oil, i had a huge article on it but lost it. after reading it, it makes you think twice about your oil. i forget exactly the classifications but, for example, say a full synthetic would be an API IV group. well a oil with a hydrocracked mineral base and some synthetic would also be able to fall under that group as long as it met the synthetic minimums. both are group IV so they should be the SAME right? well they're not.

there were lawsuits on the hydrocracked oil being labled fully synthetic, unfortunately the oil companies won because they stated that the process of realigning the molecules makes the oil synthetic. and the law does not specify TRUE synthetic.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

off wiki.

"American Petroleum Institute

The American Petroleum Institute (API) sets minimum performance standards for lubricants. Motor oil is used for the lubrication, cooling, and cleaning of internal combustion engines. Motor oil may be composed of a lubricant base stock only in the case of non-detergent oil, or a lubricant base stock plus additives to improve the oil's detergency, extreme pressure performance, and ability to inhibit corrosion of engine parts. Lubricant base stocks are categorized into five groups by the API. Group I base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum which is further refined with solvent extraction processes to improve certain properties such as oxidation resistance and to remove wax. Group II base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum that has been hydrocracked to further refine and purify it. Group III base stocks have similar characteristics to Group II base stocks, except that Group III base stocks have higher viscosity indexes. Group III base stocks are produced by further hydrocracking of Group II base stocks, or of hydroisomerized slack wax, (a byproduct of the dewaxing process). Group IV base stock are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). Group V is a catch-all group for any base stock not described by Groups I to IV. Examples of group V base stocks include polyol esters, polyalkylene glycols (PAG oils), and perfluoropolyalkylethers (PFPAEs). Groups I and II are commonly referred to as mineral oils, group III is typically referred to as synthetic (except in Germany and Japan, where they must not be called synthetic) and group IV is a synthetic oil. Group V base oils are so diverse that there is no catch-all description."

 

[dandan2]

i dont see why u say its junk! who cares wut they make it out of they probably have more oil knowledge then u do! ive used nothing but royal purple and k&n filters since i put my new motor in and ive had no problems. but hey, oil is oil! keep to ur top competetor oils and change ever 3 to 4 thousand miles and ur golden!