Mobil 1 Oil filter results

i dont see why u say its junk! who cares wut they make it out of they probably have more oil knowledge then u do! ive used nothing but royal purple and k&n filters since i put my new motor in and ive had no problems. but hey, oil is oil! keep to ur top competetor oils and change ever 3 to 4 thousand miles and ur golden!

oil is not oil.

this is from an AMSOIL dealer website but it gets the facts across about the diferent groups.
http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

"What about synthetic motor oils? Do they need Viscosity Additives?
Group IV (4) and Group V (5) base oil (synthetics) are chemically made from uniform molecules with no paraffin and don't need Viscosity Additives. However, in recent years Group III (3) based oils have been labeled "synthetic" through a legal loophole. These are petroleum based Group II (2) oils that have had the sulfur refined out making them more pure and longer lasting. Group III (3) "synthetic" motor oils must employ Viscosity Additives being petroleum based.

Group V (5) based synthetics are usually not compatible with petroleum or petroleum fuels and have poor seal swell. These are used for air compressors, hydraulics, etc. It's the Group IV (4) PAO based synthetics that make the best motor oils. They are compatible with petroleum based oils and fuels plus they have better seal swell than petroleum. Typically PAO based motor oils use no Viscosity Additives yet pass the multi-grade viscosity requirements as a straight weight! This makes them ideal under a greater temperature range. One advantage of not having to employ Viscosity Improving additives is having a more pure undiluted lubricant that can be loaded with more longevity and performance additives to keep the oil cleaner longer with better mileage/horsepower.

How do I know what motor oil is a Group IV (4) based PAO synthetic motor oil?
As more and more large oil companies switched their "synthetic" motor oils to the less expensive/more profitable Group III (3) base stocks it has become much easier to identify which are PAO based true synthetic. Of the large oil companies, only Mobil 1, as of this writing (12-15-2007), is still a PAO based true synthetic. The rest, including Castrol Syntec, have switched to the cheaper/more profitable Group III (3) petroleum based "synthetic" motor oil. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are PAO based true synthetic motor oils with the exception of the short oil drain XL-7500 synthetic motor oils sold at some Auto Parts Stores and Quick Oil Change Centers. This leaves more than 20 PAO based true synthetic motor oils manufactured and marketed by AMSOIL with only 4 Group III (3) based synthetic motor oils identified by the "XL-7500" product name.

So as you can see, the average performance of motor oils can be affected by how they change during their service life. Multi grade petroleum can lose viscosity and thin causing accelerated wear as the VI additives shear back. Straight weight petroleum (i.e. SAE 30, SAE 40) thicken a lot as they cool meaning longer time before lubricant reaches critical parts on cold starts, but have no VI additives so they resists thinning. However, they can degrade and thicken as heat and by products of combustion affect the unsaturated chemistry. Group III (3) synthetics resists this degradation much better, but being petroleum based employ some VI additives which is a negative and typically don't have as good performance in the volatility viscosity retention areas. Only the Group IV (4) PAO base synthetics have the saturated chemistry to resist degrading when exposed to the by products of combustion and heat, plus typically employ no VI additives making them very thermally stable for longer periods. For this reason the Group IV (4) synthetics maintain peak mileage and power throughout their service life"
 
i dont see why u say its junk! who cares wut they make it out of they probably have more oil knowledge then u do! ive used nothing but royal purple and k&n filters since i put my new motor in and ive had no problems. but hey, oil is oil! keep to ur top competetor oils and change ever 3 to 4 thousand miles and ur golden!


you can keep paying $7-8/ quart for an oil labled "synthetic" "proven to gain HP" when it's no better than oil that is $3-4/quart
 
dam lol i am not arguing with u

i personally use mobil1 10w30 and the mobil1 filter, cuz its on sale at advanced auto lol its like 30 for 5 quarts and a filter

but so far i really like it, i know everybody uses 5w30 but i use 10w cuz i have like 200k miles and i want to make sure the engine well lubricated
 
ok! u go ahead and keep studying and experimenting with ur oil! and ill keep useing what has proved to be good oil to me! royal purp is THE s***, not s***!
 
well actually, royal purple motor oil may be good to u

but try there trans fluid and u might be thinkin diff about them
i have it in my trans now and it shifts the same, if not worse then stock fluid thats been in there for 190xxx miles
i think its too expensive for what u get
 
heres more

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

hmm i can't seem to find were mobil 1 switched from group IV PAO oil to group III oil and didn't change the price.. maybe they didn't i dunno.

you can use what oil you want, but all im saying is why pay more for advertising. RP is NOT a synthetic but they price it like it is. if your gonna pay that much for oil you might as well just buy redline and know ur getting a true sythetic.
 
i am using theyre tras fluid aswell with no negative results! didnt really see any positive either though!
 
I believe Mobil 1 was a participant in a lawsuit vs. castrol oil in the whole "synthetic" vs "non-synthetic synthetic" oil fiasco. Mobil 1 claimed that Castrol could not legally state that their oil was synthetic because it was based on a "cracked" hydrocarbon. Mobil 1 lost that battle so then they went with the whole: if we can't beat them, we'll join them mentality.

Fram filters are junk. I use OEM filters. I'll use the (non Pure One) Purolators if I'm out of the OEM's. If you change your oil regularly between 3 - 5k miles, dependant of course on the abuse you put your car through, then you'll be fine no matter what oil you use.

My dream oil change is Castrol GTX + OEM filter. The filter should be hand-tightened (not a wrench on the nut for you K&N folks) with a bit of clean oil on the rubber gasket of the oil fiter before you screw it on.
 
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I remember reading that the rp trany fluid is harsh in cold weather. I use lucas oil k&n oil filter 75-90 trany fluid with a mix of lucas tranny stabilizer. I had a tranny leak a while back.
 
I believe Mobil 1 was a participant in a lawsuit vs. castrol oil in the whole "synthetic" vs "non-synthetic synthetic" oil fiasco. Mobil 1 claimed that Castrol could not legally state that their oil was synthetic because it was based on a "cracked" hydrocarbon. Mobil 1 lost that battle so then they went with the whole: if we can't beat them, we'll join them mentality.

Fram filters are junk. I use OEM filters. I'll use the (non Pure One) Purolators if I'm out of the OEM's. If you change your oil regularly between 3 - 5k miles, dependant of course on the abuse you put your car through, then you'll be fine no matter what oil you use.

My dream oil change is Castrol GTX + OEM filter. The filter should be hand-tightened (not a wrench on the nut for you K&N folks) with a bit of clean oil on the rubber gasket of the oil fiter before you screw it on.

... Whats the point of posting that? anyone in their right mind knows to hand tighten it.



And in the end the best combo i have ever had was RP Oil and K&N Filter, I <3 having the nut when i cant get it off, makes life SO much easier, mainly when I cant find my oil filter wrench to get it off haha.
 
... Whats the point of posting that? anyone in their right mind knows to hand tighten it.
Apparently you missed the sentence DIRECTLY after that statement which referred to a comment on this site (or a link) on how you could use the nut on the K&N filter to tighten it onto the engine.

And the K&N filters have a nice feature...The have well somewhat of a bolt at the top of the filter so you can use a 1" Wrench to loosen/tighten it, instead of using your hand.(thumb)
it took me a while to find it again, but I did it just for you. :)
 
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Hmmm, call me crazy, but I've been using FRAM Tough Guard oil filters (for 2003 2.0T Subaru WRX) and Mobil1 5w30 since my first oil change. I've got 106,XXX miles and haven't had any problems...
 
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