mazdaspeed CAI VS. Cobb SRI

I'm surprised... that for car people no one has mentioned K&N. Hands down, best intakes on the market. Not only proven on the dyno, but also proven to be the best "filter" on the aftermarket. Ask anyone who has run them, imports or muscle.

Sure allowing more air in makes more power, but allowing more dirt in with that air is slow death. Injen and AEM are two of the worst when it comes to actually "filtering" the air that they allow into the engine, HKS is bad too (Apex'i and Blitz are not far behind, not that they make intakes for MS3s anyway). Granted the cleanest filter, and most restrictive, will be the stock paper filter. All things considered, I'll be spending the extra $ on a K&N SRI, and removing whatever brand CAI the previous owner installed.

Hands down, the worst intakes in the market. Overpriced, and their filters are hardly the best for filtration. AEM DRYFLOW filters have some of the highest filtration out of all the filters.

Injen Intakes use K&N..

Get your facts straight?
 
I'm surprised... that for car people no one has mentioned K&N. Hands down, best intakes on the market. Not only proven on the dyno, but also proven to be the best "filter" on the aftermarket. Ask anyone who has run them, imports or muscle.

Sure allowing more air in makes more power, but allowing more dirt in with that air is slow death. Injen and AEM are two of the worst when it comes to actually "filtering" the air that they allow into the engine, HKS is bad too (Apex'i and Blitz are not far behind, not that they make intakes for MS3s anyway). Granted the cleanest filter, and most restrictive, will be the stock paper filter. All things considered, I'll be spending the extra $ on a K&N SRI, and removing whatever brand CAI the previous owner installed.

Silver Estasy is closer to right on this particularly regarding cost and the use of K&N filters on other manufacturers products already on many of our MS3's. Let me begin by saying I am a huge K&N fan and run K&N filters presently on every other vehicle I have (my wife's Volvo, my Nissan Armada (full K&N CAI) and on my CJ-5 off road Jeep. I'd even put one on my 5 cylinder diesel Kubota tractor if they made one that would fit. Fantastic in high dirt, dust environments.

But let's not be a fanboy of K&N, just because it makes a good product.

First, let me say that the MSCAI and the AEM (AEM makes them for Mazda) did initially come with K&N filters, as does the Injen. AEM and Mazda switched in mid stream to the dry flow filter. I do not know if it is "better" than the K&N, but I can say that it does filter well and flows well. There has been no demonstrable difference in power between the early and later MSCAI's (assuming that both do have an air straightener in the pipe ahead of the MAF to address the turbulence issue).

K&N came late to the game for our intake (other than the drop in for the stock box, which does not fix the real problem there - restrictions in the box itself). Many of us could not wait for K&N to get around to developing their product. If they had been proactive and aggressive in addressing our admittedly small market segment, maybe I'd be here singing their virtues. They do make very high quality products.

My guess is that K&N's claims for gains are very consistent with those reported for the MSCAI by the car magazines (Car and Driver - Road and Track) for hp gains of 20 or a bit higher, and corresponding torque gains all across the power band.

I find the K&N filters do last a lifetime. They do clean easily. They do not foul the MAF sensor unless you are an idiot and over oil the damn thing. They do not need to be cleaned except once every 50,000 miles. People clean them way too frequently. Pig dirty they will outflow the air mass needs of our engine. I can say all these good things about them, having used them on many applications for over thirty years.

Does this mean that the AEM dryflow filter is not as good? No. I repeat. No. It has its own advantages, is easy to clean and filters as well, except maybe in high dirt, dust, off road conditions not likely to be experienced in the MS3. I do not expect it to last as long, so I may chose to either replace it with another dry flow, or may get the equivalent size from K&N and be done with buying filters.

I'm not a fanboy for any brand. In closing I will say that for many who go the cold air route, the K&N product seems to be the type 69 which is a slightly longer tubed SRI, IMHO. The one I saw does not reach down into the cold air coming from the left front fender area. It has a "shield" but it is still up high in the engine bay and subjected to the same heat as any other shielded SRI.

So, if it is just a slightly longer SRI with a shield, it is terribly overpriced. That's just my observation. The type 69 also uses the top of the hood to close its shield into a type of airbox. On other applications I've owned this makes for a very loud intake, probably even louder than an SRI, because the shield acts to direct the noise upward to the hood which acts as a sounding board. I had to put a LOT of dynamat on the underside of the hood over a type 69 Typhoon on another vehicle to be able to hear people talking inside the car.

Just trying to be objective. Has K&N marketed an intake for us that actually extends out to the space in front of the fender well, or is it just a Typhoon design? That might change some of my opinions.

Final note to OP: Just keep whatever CAI you have and put a K&N cone on the end of it, save a lot of money and be happy too.
 
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wow not a slanted opine there! lol. I have used K/n filters which actually came with my old aem intake on my 2001 Dodge r/t. I still have the recharger kit! i did consider a k/n replacement for my MSCai. The k/n value is the best i think being lifetime. the performance is also documented for the aem mazdaspeed. I am replacing with the aem dryflow at 53000. overdue i think. anyways the apples to apples and they are both quality bits imho
 
If you buy a CAI, do you have to take the front faschia off to clean the filter?? Just curious because I had a Mazdaspeed CAI on my 09 Mazda 3 GT installed at the stealership b4 I bought the car. Now I have an 07 MS3...Just wondering which filter would be easier to clean...the SRI or the CAI
 
No you don't have to take the front off the car to access the filter.
Yes an SRI filter is easier to ACCESS to clean it than a CAI.
Specifically the process of actually cleaning the filter is same for both obviously.

Based upon what I experienced with the CPE CAI unit, you could probably lay on the ground in front of the car, reach up and access the filter from underneath fairly easily. The same is likely true for the Mazdaspeed unit, but I can't say that for certain.
 
^^^^ +

I live on the Gulf of Mexico about 70 miles east of New Orleans. That little weather condition called Katrina destroyed my office building with a 20 ft+ storm surge. My home was three miles inland. We "only" had 17.9 feet of flood water there. My house was exactly 18.0 feet above sea level, so it did not flood.

But, my point is that people here are not experiencing hydrolock with CAI's, neither from flood or from the 60+ inches of normal rain we get each year.

You have to really try hard to hydrolock a car. It takes sustained high rpm and high water in combination long enough to completely soak the filter along with enough engine vacuum to suck the water all the way through the intake tract. Most of the time, the engine simply dies from lack of oxygen long before water hits the cylinders.

Make your choices for any number of reasons, but hydrolock should not be a realistic consideration if you drive in any reasonably responsible manner. Our cars are not amphibious vehicles.

Oh, I did have the engine shut down on my lifted CJ5 Jeep when I tried to cross a stream while hunting a couple years back. Water came up over the top of the hood. Water never got inside the engine. It just got inside the distributor. A friend winched the Jeep out, we squirted WD-40 inside the distributor to displace the water, replaced the cap, temporarily removed the water logged air filter and she fired right up.
 
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I am about to replace my mazdaspeed aem dry flow filter in the next week or two or three depending on the outside temps!
If we don't have one maybe i should do a how to. Removing the inner fender is way i will get in to it.
 
The wheel liner is connected to the flap that shields the MSCAI filter. Some have just unbolted the 3 bolts that hold it in, and held it down while they yank the filter out. Others (like myself) have unbolted the wheel liner to move the entire thing aside so you have easier access. Either way, it's safe to say you have to jack up the one side and remove the wheel.
 
If you get water on your map sensor it will go into limp mode I believe. You won't harm it even if you get water sucked up. We have smart cars!
 
relacement filter.

The wheel liner is connected to the flap that shields the MSCAI filter. Some have just unbolted the 3 bolts that hold it in, and held it down while they yank the filter out. Others (like myself) have unbolted the wheel liner to move the entire thing aside so you have easier access. Either way, it's safe to say you have to jack up the one side and remove the wheel.
yep. ilike to pull the whole the whole"liner" out and have a look around. There is not much more to it than that! Thanks
 
^^^^ +

I live on the Gulf of Mexico about 70 miles east of New Orleans. That little weather condition called Katrina destroyed my office building with a 20 ft+ storm surge. My home was three miles inland. We "only" had 17.9 feet of flood water there. My house was exactly 18.0 feet above sea level, so it did not flood.

But, my point is that people here are not experiencing hydrolock with CAI's, neither from flood or from the 60+ inches of normal rain we get each year.

You have to really try hard to hydrolock a car. It takes sustained high rpm and high water in combination long enough to completely soak the filter along with enough engine vacuum to suck the water all the way through the intake tract. Most of the time, the engine simply dies from lack of oxygen long before water hits the cylinders.

Make your choices for any number of reasons, but hydrolock should not be a realistic consideration if you drive in any reasonably responsible manner. Our cars are not amphibious vehicles.

Oh, I did have the engine shut down on my lifted CJ5 Jeep when I tried to cross a stream while hunting a couple years back. Water came up over the top of the hood. Water never got inside the engine. It just got inside the distributor. A friend winched the Jeep out, we squirted WD-40 inside the distributor to displace the water, replaced the cap, temporarily removed the water logged air filter and she fired right up.

Amen.... Hydrolock is like a Unicorn, when it happens it is mystical. CAI FTW!
 
Anyone know any info about the new Cobb CAI coming out for the MS3's? Supposedly almost done with development.
 
And I thought Cobb working on new parts for the MS3 was like a unicorn.
What ever happened to the knobs they were going to make for the MS3?
 
Sorry this is bit off topic, but a search turned up nothing. Does anyone know the dimensions on the MS CAI AEM filter so I can replace it with a K&N? I can't seem to find the numbers anywhere on the net. (Only the filter for about 70 bucks...)
 
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