Mazda Tech new to the forum

MazTek

Member
:
2003 Toyota Tacoma TRD
Hey, Im new to the forum and by no means new too Mazda, I'm a Mazda certified ASE tech. Purely joined to help the fellow users on the board. I find myself on here at work looking for some issues that I have came across. Why not join? My girl just signed up too.
 
Welcome. Now, since you're here, can you explain having no power to the trunk of a 2011 Mz2? I can't open my hatch, and my rear light in the trunk doesn't turn on. Any suggestions / experience with that?
 
Does Mazda still use a laptop with a crappy program as its diagnosis setup? Thought I'd ask. I was a Mazda tech back in 08 before I went back to Honda and BMW. Mazda is right up there with Nissan on crapiness of diagnosis interfaces, or whatever you want to call them.

CRG - I have a very similar issue, I'll unlock all doors of the car with the key and the hatch won't open. I hit the unlock button another 3 or 4 times and it'll finally open
 
True mechanic who loves his job. Joining up just to help solve problems. A gold star for you good sir.
Not a problem I love Mazda, love working on them and love teaching and helping others. Why use this forum at work and see that someone has an issue that they cant figure out and not help them? I'd rather help so the word gets around so others can fix the same issue...
Welcome. Now, since you're here, can you explain having no power to the trunk of a 2011 Mz2? I can't open my hatch, and my rear light in the trunk doesn't turn on. Any suggestions / experience with that?
No power in the truck I have not seen on a 2 but i have seen this on the CX5 and MS3. Now for the rear light is check the fuse for starters, you've probably done this. If that is fine check the "room" fuse under the hood and report back to me. For the Hatch release can you open it via the emergency release following the instructions in your owners manual? When you push the button can you hear anything, such as the lock actuator moving? I have also heard on the CX5 if the car in automatic it must be in park and if manual on the 3 the hand brake must be pulled (check this). If you can not fiqure this out take it to the dealer and have them run a diag. They will list it under corrosion and replace it under your warranty if applicable.

Does Mazda still use a laptop with a crappy program as its diagnosis setup? Thought I'd ask. I was a Mazda tech back in 08 before I went back to Honda and BMW. Mazda is right up there with Nissan on crapiness of diagnosis interfaces, or whatever you want to call them.

CRG - I have a very similar issue, I'll unlock all doors of the car with the key and the hatch won't open. I hit the unlock button another 3 or 4 times and it'll finally open

Yes we still use the laptop with the VCM that I feel like throwing across the shop, but for certain walk throughs and data it is helpful for scanning i hate it. For in warranty cars i will use the VCM to see if their are any active campaigns out for the current vehicle and report back. Other than that I just whip out the Modis and get down to business. I agree with you Mazda has their cons. They are a pleasure to work on I love their book time, I find that the bigger jobs pay more time but in reality its short work.
 
Do you guys have any magnets on or near your rear hatch? I put a Sirius antenna on mine and the trunk wouldn't open until I took it off.
 
No power in the truck I have not seen on a 2 but i have seen this on the CX5 and MS3. Now for the rear light is check the fuse for starters, you've probably done this. If that is fine check the "room" fuse under the hood and report back to me. For the Hatch release can you open it via the emergency release following the instructions in your owners manual? When you push the button can you hear anything, such as the lock actuator moving? I have also heard on the CX5 if the car in automatic it must be in park and if manual on the 3 the hand brake must be pulled (check this). If you can not fiqure this out take it to the dealer and have them run a diag. They will list it under corrosion and replace it under your warranty if applicable.

I'm working on another car right now, so I don't have too much time for the 2.. but what I did try was the parking brake thing, since I've been parking it in gear for a while since some s*** went down with my rear hub assy, and nothing happened. I don't hear any noise from the lock/release actuator in the trunk just by pushing the button on the trunk. I'll check fuses tomorrow.. I'll make sure to make time when I take a break, from aforementioned car.

Also, what are your thoughts on warranty, and what's done to my 2? ( based on my signature pic ).
 
I don't see how modding your suspension would void the warranty of an electrical system, unless you messed with electrical too.
 
A lot more is done than just the suspension though.. and sometimes, that doesn't matter to the dealership.. if they see a modded out car that's still "under warranty", boom voided.

I haven't done anything to any electrical system myself, but I do have a sub/amp hooked up, and I've accidentally cut a couple wires on the car ( specifically the windshield washer fluid level sensor wire, and one of the wires that attaches to the Intake..).
 
Edit: I actually found something: A manufacturer cannot require you to use OEM parts under threat of voiding your warranty. They can only void your warranty if they can prove that the replacement part damaged your vehicle. What you are describing is a practice called "tied selling" which is considered anti-competitive and as such, is a violation of the Canadian Competition Act.

Although the dealership where I got my car from, has not seen me since I've bought the car.. I kind of screwed them over with the car I traded in haha. There's a Mazda dealership by me that I always go to, and everyone knows my car there.. I'll take it to that one when I have money to blow lol.

And no, no magnets on or near the trunk.. unless you count a sub as a magnet.
 
Last edited:
MAzTek - how long have you been with Mazda? Their book time didn't pay squat when I was there. It seems like the biggest issue I ran into while I was there was the pre-08 or 09 Mazda6s would always come in with pulling issues due to the front control arms. I was in a crappy dealer that had an alignment machine straight out of the 80s. I lost a lot of time and money for little pay on that TSB. Hopefully it works out better for you where you're at.

Since the M2 has been out for awhile, are you seeing higher mile 2s coming in that are having issues? Working for Honda and BMW most of my "tech career", I learned real quick which models had what issues around certain mileages. Are you seeing anything like this with the 2s or anything?
 
From what the dealer by me has told me, they don't see 2's in the shop often at all.. all the parts that I've got from there, are non-stock items.. aside from oil filters /drain plugs and ish.
 
Working for Honda and BMW most of my "tech career", I learned real quick which models had what issues around certain mileages.

Yeah, but the nice part about working on the Hondas was if you stared at them long enough, sometimes they'd fix themselves. BMWs are a heartache waiting to happen.

The book times were pretty fair when I was with them

Rx7 apex seal destruction at or before 60k, Millenia water pump disintegrations, 626 4cyl trans failures ( by the dozen), all made me a fairly decent paycheck. I only really got hosed on the 929 electrical problems. The 90's were not Mazda's golden years. But the Protege and the Miata were a joy to work on!

Maztech-

Any ideas on how to remedy the funky Bluetooth issues? When streaming music and making a call, sometimes the music continues to play in the background and Sometimes when you tap the Bluetooth button to make a call, the music streams through the Bluetooth instead of going to voice calling.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
A lot more is done than just the suspension though.. and sometimes, that doesn't matter to the dealership.. if they see a modded out car that's still "under warranty", boom voided.

I haven't done anything to any electrical system myself, but I do have a sub/amp hooked up, and I've accidentally cut a couple wires on the car ( specifically the windshield washer fluid level sensor wire, and one of the wires that attaches to the Intake..).
If they can prove that you altered electrical system tied into your hatch caused the problem then they can. HIGHLY unlikely
 

New Threads and Articles

Back