Mazda Protege MP3 stock dynapack dyno?

[niky]

Hi all, I'm usually a lurker on this site. I'm the owner of a Ford Lynx 2.0 RS, which, many of you know, is a Mazda MP3 plus or minus a few things.

I've just gotten through having my car dynoed, it's got Thunder Headers, a shorty K&N filter and a midpipe (yes, it still passes emissions here), with a stock muffler.

I'm keeping the muffler, or looking for a freer flowing stock item from another car, as I use this car to cart my family back and forth, and I can't make it very loud.

Anyway, my results are 131.2 hub hp, with a ratio of 5.650 (I feel it's off, but does that take the hub size into account?) and a correction factor of 1.15 puts it at 150.9 bhp.

While that falls within my minimum projected butt-dyno readings, I think the correction factor is off. Would anyone have info on stock MP3s on the dyno and the proper correction factor for a Protege?

 

[niky]

Oh, by way of explanation:

The red line is the shakedown run, the green line the first full bore and the blue line the second. Kinda weird that it kept going up, but the lambda readings showed that the computer "forgot" to dump fuel on the first run at high rpms, then did so for the second and third run.

I'm kind of puzzled about the dip at 5000 rpm... it's driving me nuts, as I've never felt it. The dip in torque at 2500 rpms is something I can actually feel on the road.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

that does seem somewhat high, even for the mods you have. you should have dynoed the car baseline before any mods to get a better idea of the gains. a dynapack will read differently than your average dynojet though.

 

[niky]

that does seem somewhat high, even for the mods you have. you should have dynoed the car baseline before any mods to get a better idea of the gains. a dynapack will read differently than your average dynojet though.

Trouble is, the dynapack wasn't available when I started modding, and my stock catalytics are covered in mud from a recent typhoon (damn, fricking weather), thus, I'm understandably hesitant about putting potentially clogged and degraded cats back on the car.

Remember, though, this is supposed to be a 142 hp car, and headers + 5, K&N +2 and midpipe + 2 would mean 151. I was just hoping someone would have a baseline for the same dyno.

Would you say the difference is around 15%? Because my friend dynoed on a roller at 118 (full IHE), and a conversion factor of another 15% from hub hp to whp puts me at about 114, which sounds reasonable compared to his.

 

[TheMAN]

the lynx rs engine is not exactly the same as the MP3's
the main difference is higher compression pistons (9.7:1) and a better intake cam (same as JDM)

 

[JoeManNorth]

I had looked up the lynx rs and what i found is that it has way more torque then the MP3. It's more of a mazdaspeed i think.

 

[niky]

I had looked up the lynx rs and what i found is that it has way more torque then the MP3. It's more of a mazdaspeed i think.

Not really. That's because in Asia, we measure torque by Nm (Newton meters), so the quoted 195 Nm is actually around 141 -142 ft-lbs of torque.

Are our cams really that different? Because stock, there's no way that this car is putting out more than 140-145 horses (I used to drive an SR20 powered car, and it felt way more athletic, which is why I'm starting to modify this one...). Like I've said, I've got 150 now (by dyno and butt-dyno), but I'm still not satisfied.

I guess we'll all know when my clubmate dynos his stock car... I'm just waiting for him to call.

One of my aims is to buy a Mazdaspeed cam, but if it won't do anything much for me, I'm going to have to find power elsewhere.

I know this is a "Please Search, Noob" question, but does anyone know the duration and lift of the Mazdaspeed cams? Or measurements I can take when I pull the cover off to see if I've already got the good ones?