mazda 5 gas pedal is unresponsive

[fspell220]

Its a 2007 5 touring with 126,000 miles. Just drove the car a few days ago, no problems. Started it up today and it runs normal except for for the fact that when i step on the accelerator pedal wont rev the motor unless i floor it and then it only revs up to only about 3k. I have a check engine light too btw that came on the same time this problem occured. Unfortunately i dont have an obd2 scanner anymore and the parts stores around here dont loan them out anymore and since the car isnt driveable like this i cant take it to the parts store to have it checked. Im leaning towards the throttle position sensor. Tried searching this forum no luck. Tried Searching google and nothing but garbage results so hoping someone that has had this happen could shed some light. Thanks in advance.

 

[rodslinger]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Autozone should scan your codes for free. I also have a 2007 factory service manual that I can send you once you get the code. I just looked at the sympton troublshooting chart and there was nothing for not revving past 3000rpms. But it does sound like something related to the pedal position or throttle position sensor.

 

[fspell220]

I cant drive it anywhere to have the code checked. I managed to contact a friend who is going to let me borrow one tomorrow. Ill post my findings tomorrow. Thanks man.

 

[rodslinger]

If it will at least rev to 3k rpms it seems like it as least running in limp mode. You won't have much power but sounds like it should at least make the speed limit with the pedal matted.

 

[Silentnoise713]

If local stores don't load them anymore and/or inaccessible, should really consider buying a reader or better yet a dash mount mult purpose monitoring device like a scangauge/dash hawk/etc. type device. If you use it, it'll pay for itself in no time.

Based on your limited description, this matches almost word for word the experience I had when the Catalytic convert failed on my Suzuki. Guess we'll find out once you get that CEL checked out.

 

[fspell220]

Ok so i scanned it and come up with p2119. Haven't researched it yet but i will. I tried starting it just for s and g and it started up fine and pedal seems normal but the check engine light remains on. I dont trust it to let it be tho, lol. Need to figure out what it is and fix it.

 

[rodslinger]

Take a look at the two attached files from the service manual. Souds like it is likely a bad throttle body. Junkyard time....

 

[fspell220]

So, first off, thank you for all the info rodslinger. Secondly, the only think I've actually had time to do so far is to remove the air intake tubing and inspect the throttle body and plate. This thing is the filthiest throttle body I've ever seen. A lot of soot and carbon build up. It was suggested I take a lot of time to clean it first and go from there. If that is the problem then it is a real easy fix. Here is my concern tho. My wife had an 05 Nissan Altima. I decided to clean the throttle body on it one day and the thing ran like crap afterwards. After researching I read that the computer needed to be reset since the carbon removal had made an adjustment to the home closed position of the throttle body. After several hours, and lots of tries of combinations of key switching and accelerator pedal presses I finally got it reset. Sorry so long guys. But if I clean this, does anyone know if I will run into the same issue? And if so how do I manually reset it?

 

[rodslinger]

I had thought of that also. If there is enough buildup it may hold the throttle plate open just enough to throw the code. Just a theory though. If anything your car will try to idle higher after cleaning out the gunk. But from what I recall the idle relearn was fairly simple.

1) Put key in ignition but do not turn on for 60 seconds
2) Turn on car but do not start, let sit for 90 seconds, do NOT touch gas pedal.
3) Start car and let idle for five minutes, do NOT touch gas pedal during this time.

I'll double check but that was about all there was to it.

 

[fspell220]

Just an update. I removed the throttle body and cleaned it thoroughly and installed new oring seal. Cleared code and fired it up. It runs great, better than before actually. I didn't have to go thu any relearning procedure either. Thanks for all the help rodslinger. Hopefully this info will help someone else in the future.

 

[kbrodigan]

This happened to me once after getting gas at the local station. Turns out it was vapor lock. A quick open and close of the gas filler cap and the problem was resolved.

 

[flcruising]

Unbelievable.

 

[superbike7]

I had a similar problem about a year ago. Like you I cleaned the throttle body. Well a couple of weeks ago the problem came back and so did the p2119 code. I had to replace the throttle body and you will too eventually. I have a 2007 Touring as well and it seems to be a problem with them. The dealer wants about $400 for a new one, but you can find them online for about $260.00.

 

[cassiekohler]

I had a similar problem about a year ago. Like you I cleaned the throttle body. Well a couple of weeks ago the problem came back and so did the p2119 code. I had to replace the throttle body and you will too eventually. I have a 2007 Touring as well and it seems to be a problem with them. The dealer wants about $400 for a new one, but you can find them online for about $260.00.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I am having similar problems with my 2007 Mazda 5 (105k mi) and mechanic is saying a throttle body replacement is the answer. I have been reading about doing this online and have found the correct part; I'm wondering if:
A) I should also replace the Throttle Position Sensor
B) Will I have to reset the TPS if I replace it, or if I only replace the throttle body
and C) Should I try replacing the TPS first (it's so much cheaper and looks easy, if I don't have to recalibrate it)

Thanks in advance!

 

[Vasy]

A) I should also replace the Throttle Position Sensor
B) Will I have to reset the TPS if I replace it, or if I only replace the throttle body and
C) Should I try replacing the TPS first (it's so much cheaper and looks easy, if I don't have to recalibrate it)

Why would you replace TPS when mechanic says that TB is what's defective? You can also replace master brake cylinder (detect) heheh
Try cleaning it first and do the relearn process, that would be the cheapest way to start, if not, I'd replace what has been diagnosed not other random parts.