Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
I run an AWR pan. That pic with the finished bung is not my car, but merely to show how it should look.
Maxx Mazda's 2011 Build Thread
- Thread starter Maxx Mazda
- Start date
I run an AWR pan. That pic with the finished bung is not my car, but merely to show how it should look.
justanothermp5
Banned
- :
- Rust Bucket
where did you buy the supertech valves? Ive been trying to find someone who stocks them
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Got mine as a leftover set from PG. There's a full set in the For Sale section right now.
justanothermp5
Banned
- :
- Rust Bucket
wow awesome, thanks man...i completely missed that thread.
Keep up the awesome work with the car!
Keep up the awesome work with the car!
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
In coming up with a more "permanent" solution to the PCV issue, I went shopping for fittings at the local shop today. When combined with Sig's sealed catch can, I should have an airtight path for the blowby to flow and collect. The "suction" side of the PCV system will be relocated to its own bung in the intake manifold, and the two top nipples will be capped. They simply don't flow enough for my new setup. -8 AN lines will be used in the whole system. Once the system is complete, air will be drawn in from a breather in the side of the valve cover, through the passages and baffles inside the valve cover, down through the crankcase, and then drawn up and out of the cover through the main bung in the center. If you don't know how the stock PCV system functions, read up on it. If you do, that should have made perfect sense.
Originally, I wanted to just tap and thread in a 1/2"NPT to -8 connector into the valve cover. As you can see, because of the hex head, contact will be made with the cover, and it is not pissible to thread it in all the way. I had thought about grinding the cover down for clearance, but there just isn't enough "meat" on the cover there to make me feel comfortable. So, onto plan B.
As you can see, with the nut "squared up" clearance is had.
I purchased a -8 Union fitting, with a bulkhead nut:
I enlarged the hole very slightly, and dropped the union through. In order the thread the nut on the backside, I had to clearance it just a C-hair:
To ensure a seal, I used a rubber washer on each side of the valve cover:
its' VERY hard to see, but look closely. I filled the compartment with water to test for leaks. The rubber washers work great, and no leaks were found!
The union end is FAR too long to fit under the internal cover, so I just ground it off, leaving enough to have decent threads, but not to much so as to impede flow, or sit in any liquid oil thats trapped in the baffles.
What the finished bung looks like on the top side:
I removed the bung again, and got to sandblasting stuff. Crushed walnut shells work great on aluminum. Before:
After:
Was able to fill some imperfections with some high temp epoxy. I didn't take pics, but I sanded and primed this after and it turned out great!
Painted the windage tray after I gave it a good sandblasting:
Painted my coil bracket:
Got to cleaning all the nuts and bolts. Believe me when I say that tedious does not describe this task! All bolts were run through the die, and wire brushed after being soaked in solvent. Before:
After:
Coils installed in the bracket:
My parts table. Everything is bagged or in containers, labeled and clean. I've got about 4 more boxes under the table:
What I'll be using for engine sealant. Permatex grey is the best on the market in my opinion, and is the very stuff Mazda used on your car at the factory. This stuff ain't cheap, it's about twice the cost of the black stuff, but in my experience it dries a lot harder, and is easier to apply:
That's it for tonight!
Originally, I wanted to just tap and thread in a 1/2"NPT to -8 connector into the valve cover. As you can see, because of the hex head, contact will be made with the cover, and it is not pissible to thread it in all the way. I had thought about grinding the cover down for clearance, but there just isn't enough "meat" on the cover there to make me feel comfortable. So, onto plan B.
As you can see, with the nut "squared up" clearance is had.
I purchased a -8 Union fitting, with a bulkhead nut:
I enlarged the hole very slightly, and dropped the union through. In order the thread the nut on the backside, I had to clearance it just a C-hair:
To ensure a seal, I used a rubber washer on each side of the valve cover:
its' VERY hard to see, but look closely. I filled the compartment with water to test for leaks. The rubber washers work great, and no leaks were found!
The union end is FAR too long to fit under the internal cover, so I just ground it off, leaving enough to have decent threads, but not to much so as to impede flow, or sit in any liquid oil thats trapped in the baffles.
What the finished bung looks like on the top side:
I removed the bung again, and got to sandblasting stuff. Crushed walnut shells work great on aluminum. Before:
After:
Was able to fill some imperfections with some high temp epoxy. I didn't take pics, but I sanded and primed this after and it turned out great!
Painted the windage tray after I gave it a good sandblasting:
Painted my coil bracket:
Got to cleaning all the nuts and bolts. Believe me when I say that tedious does not describe this task! All bolts were run through the die, and wire brushed after being soaked in solvent. Before:
After:
Coils installed in the bracket:
My parts table. Everything is bagged or in containers, labeled and clean. I've got about 4 more boxes under the table:
What I'll be using for engine sealant. Permatex grey is the best on the market in my opinion, and is the very stuff Mazda used on your car at the factory. This stuff ain't cheap, it's about twice the cost of the black stuff, but in my experience it dries a lot harder, and is easier to apply:
That's it for tonight!
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Yes picked up a cheap sandblaster for like $200. I use all kinds of media depending on what I'm blasting.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
They don't have my one anymore on the site, but I wish I had waited to buy! It's similar to this one, and it's only $79 including gun! http://www.princessauto.mobi/index.php?option=items&task=details&itemid=3614
A siphon blaster isnt quite as effective as a pressure blaster, but mine is a siphon setup and as you can see it does the job just fine. If you do buy a blaster, dot forget another $50 or so for a DECENT hood. The cheap ones fog up in like 2 minutes.
A siphon blaster isnt quite as effective as a pressure blaster, but mine is a siphon setup and as you can see it does the job just fine. If you do buy a blaster, dot forget another $50 or so for a DECENT hood. The cheap ones fog up in like 2 minutes.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Today I got off work early, so I decided to get some of the more mundane tasks out of the way.
Painted the valve cover. The letters will be polished. Three coats of engine enamel, and 2 coats of clear:
Next step was to "dry fit" the block together, and measure all bearing clearances. I use green plastigauge for the FS engine. Crank bearings installed:
Crank dropped in dry DO NOT SPIN IT! And main caps torqued, with plastigauge in place:
Don't forget to use ARP moly lube on all ARP fasteners to achieve the proper torque values:
Next the rod bearings were installed with the plastigauge, and torqued as well:
Our clearance range for the rods is 0.0010"-0.0025".
After the caps were all removed, we can take a clearance measurement. This rod bearing has 0.0015" clearance. Right in the middle where we want to be:
The same procedure was followed for the mains. 0.0020" on this example, which despite being outside our "standard clearance" (but only just) is still well below the maximum clearance.
My notepad showing the measurements for all measured bearings:
All bearings and caps were cleaned, labeled, and put away again until I'm ready to assemble the engine.
What does this all mean? That once assembled, I will have a rock solid rotating assembly, that should give me thousands of trouble-free boosted miles. Some builders avoid this measurement step and just slap the engine together because it's a very time consuming process. The whole endeavour took me about 2.5 hours. I now have the peace of mind in knowing that all this machine work has paid off.
Painted the valve cover. The letters will be polished. Three coats of engine enamel, and 2 coats of clear:
Next step was to "dry fit" the block together, and measure all bearing clearances. I use green plastigauge for the FS engine. Crank bearings installed:
Crank dropped in dry DO NOT SPIN IT! And main caps torqued, with plastigauge in place:
Don't forget to use ARP moly lube on all ARP fasteners to achieve the proper torque values:
Next the rod bearings were installed with the plastigauge, and torqued as well:
Our clearance range for the rods is 0.0010"-0.0025".
After the caps were all removed, we can take a clearance measurement. This rod bearing has 0.0015" clearance. Right in the middle where we want to be:
The same procedure was followed for the mains. 0.0020" on this example, which despite being outside our "standard clearance" (but only just) is still well below the maximum clearance.
My notepad showing the measurements for all measured bearings:
All bearings and caps were cleaned, labeled, and put away again until I'm ready to assemble the engine.
What does this all mean? That once assembled, I will have a rock solid rotating assembly, that should give me thousands of trouble-free boosted miles. Some builders avoid this measurement step and just slap the engine together because it's a very time consuming process. The whole endeavour took me about 2.5 hours. I now have the peace of mind in knowing that all this machine work has paid off.
justanothermp5
Banned
- :
- Rust Bucket
So, since you seem to know what your doing, what exactly would you do if your clearances were off? Ive done the plastiguage before on engines, but always had a good result.
Just machine the crank and run oversize bearings?
Just machine the crank and run oversize bearings?
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Bingo. That's why they make oversized bearings. Above, 7th photo, step 4 details this process.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Finished up the valve cover today. Sanded the lettering down with 400, 800, then 2000 grit. Then polished the lettering with Mother's aluminum polish. The pics don't do it justice, the letters have a mirror finish!
Installed the PCV bung. Used locktite on the nut to ensure it will not come off. Looks pretty good if you ask me.
Reinstalled the baffles and installed a new gasket.
Installed the PCV bung. Used locktite on the nut to ensure it will not come off. Looks pretty good if you ask me.
Reinstalled the baffles and installed a new gasket.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
Purrrrteeee!
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Put the oil pump together today. Packed it with grease to help create a vacuum on first startup, and coated all the internal parts with oil as well. Torqued the cover on properly.
Gapped the piston rings as well. As per CP's reccomendation for my application, the top ring was gapped to 0.018" and the second ring to 0.025". Remember to use your ring file from the outside in, and de-burr the rings with some 400 grit once filing is done.
All rings were bagged and numbered based on the cylinder they were fit to, so that assembly can begin tomorrow morning.
Gapped the piston rings as well. As per CP's reccomendation for my application, the top ring was gapped to 0.018" and the second ring to 0.025". Remember to use your ring file from the outside in, and de-burr the rings with some 400 grit once filing is done.
All rings were bagged and numbered based on the cylinder they were fit to, so that assembly can begin tomorrow morning.
fishdonotbounce
Registered Zombie
- :
- 08.5 CWP Speed3
Just wanted to sub and say that I really admire the work that you do. This is the definition of doing things right and not half assing anything.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Thanks! Should have the engine completed tomorrow.
funkalicious21
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege 5 Turbo
freaking amazing. definitely envious of the work! I want to do the same, but unsure of how to go about it. You're making me movtivated =D
Spiced MSP
Member
- :
- 2016 Peterbilt 579
outstanding work so far
