mymmeryloss
Member
- :
- 13bT Mazda B2600i
Looks good!
Are u using loom or just straight electrical tape?
Are u using loom or just straight electrical tape?
magnumP5's RX-7 Build Thread
- Thread starter magnumP5
- Start date
Nice work, Jon! That's the good thing about working on a car like yours with a complete tear down, you know everything about it now.
And I almost sold my A/C unit in the dash then I realized the blower motor is on the right and ducting on the left behind the glove box so if I sold it I would have to fab up some ducting adn that would be a mega PITA. Are you sure you want to delete the heat though?
And I almost sold my A/C unit in the dash then I realized the blower motor is on the right and ducting on the left behind the glove box so if I sold it I would have to fab up some ducting adn that would be a mega PITA. Are you sure you want to delete the heat though?
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
What happened to the cluster?
Now it doesn't have A/C or heat!
Not having A/C is fine, but I use the heat on my Miata a bunch! Maybe it's not an issue since you live farther south.
You at least kept the blowers and ducting, right? It won't be any fun on those early track days with the windows fogged up!you should leave at least the heater in the car. You will need it to clear the windshield with the defroster. also if you car is running a little hot you can always turn on the heat to act as a secondary rad. it really doesn't way that much. my2$
For the interior I'm using electrical tape and the stock tie-downs. That's basically how they were all installed from the factory. The wires in the engine bay will be wrapped with high-temperature tape, then that woven stuff and then again with high-temp tape.
Mine is setup the same way. In the pictures the blower motor is actually still installed (I had to remove it for some of the wiring). Immediately to its left is the A/C unit and then to the left of that (center of the car) is the heater core and the selector (whatever changes where the air comes from). From the pictures you can see I basically gutted the A/C box and removed the heater core from the selector. I'm in the process of sealing the gaps so when I'm done I'll still be able to get airflow. Of course there is a OEM part available for cars without A/C, but why spend money when you don't have to?
Basically every mounting tab on the cluster broke. The unfortunate consequence of having a car that's 22 years-old. When I repaired my wiper switch a while back I was able to get longer screws and make everything work but I'm afraid I can't do that this time. It's a sad fact that everytime I do something with the interior epoxy ends up being involved...
Not having A/C is fine, but I use the heat on my Miata a bunch! Maybe it's not an issue since you live farther south.
Oh it still gets cold as hell during the winter here but even before it broke I only drove the car a couple times between October and March. Even then, the car is garaged. Either way, don't you use A/C to de-fog and heat to de-frost?
LOL, all this concern over the heater! I understand what you're saying though about the secondary radiator, but would it really help that much? The biggest thing that has me debating reinstalling the heater core is the radiator. It has a separate provision dedicated solely for the heater core that I would need to plug. That would require me to find someone with TIG expertise as I can't trust a rubber cap and worm clamp to hold 1.3 bar of pressure.
mymmeryloss
Member
- :
- 13bT Mazda B2600i
Progress?
Rotors and intermediate housings are cleaned. Intermediate housings have been shipped to be lapped and heat treated as well as having the coolant temperature sensor location redrilled (larger diameter for S5 sensor) and several coolant nipples plugged off. I also got my rotor housings back last Friday; they look as good as new and are all ready for porting.
Sorry no pictures and no real progress. The proverbial s*** hit the fan at work last week and I "officially" logged 50 hours last week. I spent the entire weekend doing yard work and blowing off steam (e.g. putting lots of .45" diameter holes sheets of paper). This week isn't looking too good either...
mymmeryloss
Member
- :
- 13bT Mazda B2600i
Haha. I wish I could b**** about 50 hour weeks.
I normally put in 90-110 hours a week for two weeks straight with no days off.
But I know how ya feel. Some weeks or even days seem like total hell!
Have u decided on a color scheme for the keg?
I normally put in 90-110 hours a week for two weeks straight with no days off.
But I know how ya feel. Some weeks or even days seem like total hell!
Have u decided on a color scheme for the keg?
That's 50 "official" hours. I'm salaried so there's "casual ovetime" in there as well. Sometimes I wish I was still waged where anything clocked over 8 hours was time-and-a-half...
I haven't done crap to the car in two weeks. I'm usually so fed up with work by the time I get home at 6 that I don't want to do anything. This past weekend was a nice reprieve with family visiting but that still meant no work getting done. Even so, just a small update:
The rotor housings and the intermediate plates have all be cleaned up and resurfaced. Many thanks to Goopy Performance and Chips Motorsports for the service. I don't have pictures of the rotor housings at this time but see the intermediate plates below (not my picture):
All of the sealing surfaces have been lapped and re-nitrided and all unneccesary cooling ports have been plugged. These look SO MUCH better than they did when I sent them out. If I can get them back in my hands before the weekend I may try to take a trip to Columbus to talk about some porting and fabrication work.
I"M NOT DEAD!
Still slowly working on this.
I had everything back for a while so I decided to take some pictures of the shiny stuff. Lapped/cleaned intermediate plates (thanks Chips Motorsports!):
Resurfaced/cleaned rotor housings (thanks Goopy Performance!):
Clean rotors:
For giggles I put the plates and housings together. I actually kind of like the grey/silver theme. It will definitely be easier to spot leaks versus those on black/silver or black/grey parts.
Then I went back to work on the wiring. Engine harness this time:
Engine bay as it sits now. Every stock engine control connection is gone. The only things that remain are the charging system, lights and transmission switches.
I'm basically done stripping the wiring harnesses now. Next, I need to plan where all the new stuff is going. Ideally, all the new wiring for the new gauges and control system will be loomed with what remains of the stock harnesses but I don't think that will be completely possible. I'll redo the charging system next and go from there.
The rotor housings and plates are off getting ported now as well with Defined Autoworks. Ilve also been talking with them about getting an intake manifold, header and throttle bodies fab'd up. At this point I'm just about done with all the "purchased services" so you may be seeing more goodies and other shiny bits in the near future...
Still slowly working on this.
I had everything back for a while so I decided to take some pictures of the shiny stuff. Lapped/cleaned intermediate plates (thanks Chips Motorsports!):
Resurfaced/cleaned rotor housings (thanks Goopy Performance!):
Clean rotors:
For giggles I put the plates and housings together. I actually kind of like the grey/silver theme. It will definitely be easier to spot leaks versus those on black/silver or black/grey parts.
Then I went back to work on the wiring. Engine harness this time:
Engine bay as it sits now. Every stock engine control connection is gone. The only things that remain are the charging system, lights and transmission switches.
I'm basically done stripping the wiring harnesses now. Next, I need to plan where all the new stuff is going. Ideally, all the new wiring for the new gauges and control system will be loomed with what remains of the stock harnesses but I don't think that will be completely possible. I'll redo the charging system next and go from there.
The rotor housings and plates are off getting ported now as well with Defined Autoworks. Ilve also been talking with them about getting an intake manifold, header and throttle bodies fab'd up. At this point I'm just about done with all the "purchased services" so you may be seeing more goodies and other shiny bits in the near future...
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
I know it doesn't go along with the race car build, but I think a mild shave and wire tuck would look sweet in the engine bay. I've not seen that on an FC before. And since you'll have only a handful of wires with the standalone, it should be pretty easy! (but probably won't be, seeing how I just jinxed it)
I can't wait for the sound. It was intoxicating enough with the stock intake/exhaust/engine so I can only imagine how nice it's going to sound with ITB's/exhaust/ported engine!
I thought about this since it wouldn't be too hard to do with all the wires exposed as they are now. I decided against this for two reasons:
1. I didn't want to have to cut/extent just about every wire in the engine bay
2. I really don't want to restrict access to any wires/fuses for quick repair/replacement
Don't worry though. I promise the final setup will be MUCH cleaner than it was stock.
Well I don't have any pictures per se but I did do a little shopping last night. Picked out my new gauges:
Marshall Instruments SCX Pro Oil Pressure Gauge:
Marshall Instruments SCX Pro Oil Temperature Gauge:
Marshall Instruments SCX Pro Water Temperature Gauge:
I also picked up one of their gauges pods...
...to hold this, an Injected Performance Dual Display Wideband O2 Gauge:
That's right, there will be not one, but two wideband O2 sensors on this car when I'm done!
mymmeryloss
Member
- :
- 13bT Mazda B2600i
im so ******* jealous! hopefully everything is to spec...
i need toi find a reputable engine builder to rebuild mine, but i dont wannt be $10k into it lol...
nice progress!
i need toi find a reputable engine builder to rebuild mine, but i dont wannt be $10k into it lol...
nice progress!
I'm keeping the stock rotating assembly so I'm hoping everything will line back up. I was going to use the RX-8 eccentric shaft and stationary gears, but after some research I found that involves more work than I want to do. Pretty soon I'm going to need to break out the micrometers, calipers and dial indicators...
Regarding building the engine, based on what I've seen of your work I'd think it'd be no problem for you. Even though the majority of the cleaning, machining and porting work on my engine is being done elsewhere I'll be the one assembling the engine. The engine is only like 10 parts... except those 100 seals!
All the gauges have been delivered so now I need to order the dual wideband controller and extra sensor. I spoke with the harness builder and it looks like I'll be wiring all this stuff in independently of the ECU so I'd better get on that. I'm going to build the wiring and senders for the gauges into what's left of the front harness.
What is ITB? Sorry I'm dumb.
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
