Looks like I need a new oil pan

[CheeseHelmet]

gasket remover might not work on the RTV. you could probably just lightly use a paint scraper.

I've been using a plastic scraper and it really sucks. I'll test the gasket remover on the bolts first, but I just wanna make sure that spraying it into my engine won't do any harm...

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Never mind the gasket remover, I'm doing it by hand with a metal paint scraper and it's coming along, slowly...

 

[metalbeater]

follow the instructions, by using bolts that you removed, screwed into the extra holes(which are threaded) that push the pan away from the block. Prying after unseating the pan. The pan is installed at the factory only using RTV, which is why it comes off so hard. Remember to RTV the bolts when reinstalling, because that helps seal the bolt hole from leaking. Been down this road, and used a cork gasket. 25K miles with no leak, but you cant torque the bolts to specs because you'll distort the pan edge with the cork gasket. Use some locktite on bolts(blue) and tighten using torque pattern from service manual. only tighten til gasket compresses evenly.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

follow the instructions, by using bolts that you removed, screwed into the extra holes(which are threaded) that push the pan away from the block. Prying after unseating the pan. The pan is installed at the factory only using RTV, which is why it comes off so hard. Remember to RTV the bolts when reinstalling, because that helps seal the bolt hole from leaking. Been down this road, and used a cork gasket. 25K miles with no leak, but you cant torque the bolts to specs because you'll distort the pan edge with the cork gasket. Use some locktite on bolts(blue) and tighten using torque pattern from service manual. only tighten til gasket compresses evenly.

If only I read your post sooner... I put RTV on both sides of the gasket and tightened it down. There is no pattern in the service manual but I tried to do it as evenly as possible to distort the gasket as little as possible.

I hope it doesn't leak but I guess I'll find out soon

Speaking of which, how long should I wait for the RTV to set before adding oil? Is 1 hour enough?

 

[slavrenz]

follow the instructions, by using bolts that you removed, screwed into the extra holes(which are threaded) that push the pan away from the block. Prying after unseating the pan. The pan is installed at the factory only using RTV, which is why it comes off so hard. Remember to RTV the bolts when reinstalling, because that helps seal the bolt hole from leaking. Been down this road, and used a cork gasket. 25K miles with no leak, but you cant torque the bolts to specs because you'll distort the pan edge with the cork gasket. Use some locktite on bolts(blue) and tighten using torque pattern from service manual. only tighten til gasket compresses evenly.

1. I disagree with using RTV on the bolts. The gasket alone will keep the pan from leaking, and if you get any RTV down inside the bolt holes, it could distort the threads.

2. When I did mine, I was able to torque my gasket to spec no problem. I did use blue loctite on the bolts, as you suggested (but just a drop).

 

[slavrenz]

I did it! I had already tried using the nut and pulling as hard as I could, it didn't work. I used a pry bar! I put the tip on an exposed bit of the oil pan flange (on the right side) and rested the bent part of the bar on the block, one good pull and it popped right off. I didn't need to force anything between the oil pan and the block

Now that I have it off, there's a bunch of RTV left on the block. I sent my brother to pickup some gasket remover, can I spray that stuff safely in that area?

EDIT: Thank you so much slavrenz for the continued support, I owe you a few beers

Let me just get you that shipping address, lol...

As far as removing the RTV, go get yourself a metal gasket scraper. They're only like $6 or $7 at the auto parts store, and it won't gouge your block, or get everything messy like that spray stuff does. Then, clean up the sealing face with a scotch-brite pad to make sure they're no little bits of RTV still on there.

EDIT: I see you already installed it. Ignore previous instructions. As for the tightening pattern, I just tightened every other bolts all the way around a few times until I had them all.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Let me just get you that shipping address, lol...

As far as removing the RTV, go get yourself a metal gasket scraper. They're only like $6 or $7 at the auto parts store, and it won't gouge your block, or get everything messy like that spray stuff does. Then, clean up the sealing face with a scotch-brite pad to make sure they're no little bits of RTV still on there.

EDIT: I see you already installed it. Ignore previous instructions. As for the tightening pattern, I just tightened every other bolts all the way around a few times until I had them all.

Hmmm, I wonder if you can ship beer across the border...

Anyway, must I wait 24 hours before adding oil?

 

[CheeseHelmet]

I waited 5 hours before filling it up and testing it out. I think I put the exhaust parts back together properly, everything sounds/smells good. Now I just have to wait to see if it leaks...

Again, I'd like to thank everyone who helped out. Normally I'll take a few days to study the job before doing it but I didn't really have the luxury of time for this one (hence the reason for all my trivial questions).

Thank you.

 

[slavrenz]

Hmmm, I wonder if you can ship beer across the border...

Anyway, must I wait 24 hours before adding oil?

You don't need to wait 24 hrs as long as everything is tightened up. A few hours is fine.

Glad to hear it's all done.