LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

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it actually kind of switches back and forth, but mostly it cranks quickly. I am not using 440's. That's next on the list, as it's holding back some of my power.

So just mess with the coolant temp correction map?

 

[TurfBurn]

add about 1 ms or a hair more then to the crank number I gave you and about .2 to the idle numbers... I assume you can read the injector out put pulse width???

Does it start fine in warmer weather etc? If that is so then you need to mess with your coolant and your air temp (once it is started and it is warmed up does it start fine after that? If so then just mess with the coolant map...)

Check my "correction maps" in the microtech library.. that'll help you get an idea of how steep of a curve is actually involved for water temp correction.

 

[glyph]

add about 1 ms or a hair more then to the crank number I gave you and about .2 to the idle numbers... I assume you can read the injector out put pulse width???

Does it start fine in warmer weather etc? If that is so then you need to mess with your coolant and your air temp (once it is started and it is warmed up does it start fine after that? If so then just mess with the coolant map...)

Check my "correction maps" in the microtech library.. that'll help you get an idea of how steep of a curve is actually involved for water temp correction.

you're talking oranges to my apples (terminology gap here). What do you mean by crank #? For idle, you mean simple increase the timing by .2?

It starts fine in warm weather, and once warmed up it starts fine as well.

 

[TurfBurn]

I'm talking about the "during cranking" map... on the Microtech it is labeled "crank" it may be labeled start or something else.. I don't have the haltech software loaded so I'm not sure what... but it controls an addition of fuel specifically for the time whe you are cranking the motor.

 

[glyph]

gotcha. I'll check my laptop shortly. Studying for my checkride coming up...

 

[glyph]

It seems I am making progress. I still get several starts where there is an initial rev, that goes up to 1500+ or so, and then it cuts out again. But at least the starts are smoother...

 

[glyph]

I used studs and Nuts. Flyin' Miata is good about supplying some good A2 grade stainless steel studs, nuts, and washers. 8M 1.25 is the sizing on the studs. They have an offset collar so that you can screw the end with the least amount of threads into the block, and the end with the most threads go out towards the manifold.

I went to order them, but I can't find them on the site. Do I have to call them?

 

[LinuxRacr]

I always had to call them to order them.

 

[glyph]

I have them ordered. I did most of it over email.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Take care not to overtorque them. They don't have to be too tight if you have a good sealing surface, and a good gasket.

 

[glyph]

I have been obeying the torque values in the service manual. Yet I also discovered the long bolt that goes into the intake manifold and bolts it to the dynamic chamber also backed out. WTF? How the hell did that thing back out, STRAIGHT UP, mind you and disappear? I am positive that I put everything in place. I have no idea what happened there. The exhaust manifold, however, is obviously a lot heavier with all the stuff bolted on, and a worse load on the bolts, so I understand that.


Edit: Do you use a different gasket from stock? I have been using stock gaskets.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Stock.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Latest update:
1. Clutch slips like a b****, but I have a Exedy on order, and it should be here within a week. Read about that here: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123619222

2. I found my phantom exhaust leak. It is coming from where the Tial Wastegate sits on top of the manifold. The gasket just isn't cutting it. I need to buy yet another one, and find some way to make it really seal. This has been here the whole time.

 

[Bigg Tim]

Latest update:
1. Clutch slips like a b****, but I have a Exedy on order, and it should be here within a week. Read about that here: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123619222

2. I found my phantom exhaust leak. It is coming from where the Tial Wastegate sits on top of the manifold. The gasket just isn't cutting it. I need to buy yet another one, and find some way to make it really seal. This has been here the whole time.

The tial is on the old sleeper version mani right? If so, they are tuff to seal, but it can be done. Good luck with it, I expect when the new clutch is in that there will be no excuses to see some big power out of the OG built motor??????(poke) (thumb)

 

[LinuxRacr]

Hahaha yup!

 

[glyph]

You could try putting some high-temp sealant around the edges. Mine seems to be holding fine, but we'll see for certain when I get the exhaust manifold sealed properly.

Did you ever completely solve your cold-start problem?

 

[Bigg Tim]

You could try putting some high-temp sealant around the edges. Mine seems to be holding fine, but we'll see for certain when I get the exhaust manifold sealed properly.

Did you ever completely solve your cold-start problem?

Do they make high temp sealant that can withstand that kind of temps? The highest I found local was 750 degree copper RTV, way too low of a temp, but a good idea if you can find some.

 

[JDM Sam]

he runs too much boost on that mani. back pressure is backing off the gaskets.

 

[TurfBurn]

For your guys cold start try to get your injector open time on the 440s to fall in the 3.6-4.2 ms range (during cranking)... then at cold idle you'll need to run about 1.6-1.9 ms open time to yield an AFR of around 12.9 or 13.1 ish for warming it up. Once it is warmed up it should correct out from there on it's own.

Later!

Steve

 

[LinuxRacr]

Good info. I will try that out Steve!