LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

[TurfBurn]

awesome... now if you and I can figure out this timing BS .

 

[glyph]

sweet, dude, hope it all goes smoothly. Yours rattles inside? Mine doesn't do that at all. I hope that's a good sign.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Most only rattle when unplugged.

 

[glyph]

i've never noticed it. I would think rattling would be bad, that the thing would be mounted securely inside the box...

 

[LinuxRacr]

The MP3 lives again!!!

 

[anarchistchiken]

Woot. I gotta go back and read all these pages instead of skimming over em. I'm considering (not very seriosuly yet) getting this system in a few months along with a built shortblock and really testing the limits of the WOMP (and my wallet, lol)

 

[LinuxRacr]

Ok, I have hooked up the O2 signal wire from pin 2 of the Haltech E6X to tap the wire number 35 of the stock ECU. This wire is the signal wire for the 2nd stock O2 senor. I didn't use my Wideband because it doesn't have a 0-1v output wire. Time to go out and test this out! More to follow.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Ok,

I'm back from testing this out. What I found out was that at idle, it was doing closed loop no problem, but cruising, there was an issue. I couldn't figure out what it was. So I used the html help pages that came with the install of the Halwin software (pretty damn good BTW). I found my answer there. One of the correction factors that I had on was the Throttle Pumps. I turned them off, and reset my Haltech E6X (I found that the settings did NOT take effect until you power-reset the E6X), and closed loop kicked in no problem! So it works great off the stock O2 sensor. What I noticed was that I had more torque, and better throttle response down low. No more rich bogs at times!!! This feature fuggin OWNZ!! (eekdance)

Here are my settings:

 

[glyph]

So are you saying that the updated settings for O2 closed loop don't take until you reset? or all settings?

 

[LinuxRacr]

So are you saying that the updated settings for O2 closed loop don't take until you reset? or all settings?

Well if Closed Loop 02 was disabled, and I enabled it, it wouldn't work till I reset the ECU. The other settings I found update on the fly (without a reset) once the feature is enabled.

 

[13984]

Have you heard from Juan about the warranty on your ecu?

 

[LinuxRacr]

Yes I have. We have it worked out...s***, I need to ship that unit fast! I've been so busy lately at work..

 

[LinuxRacr]

Went for a hard run last night, and then I pulled over as quick as possible, so that I could see if my manifold glows. It does... I probably need to add some timing.

 

[MPNick]

Went for a hard run last night, and then I pulled over as quick as possible, so that I could see if my manifold glows. It does... I probably need to add some timing.

What a great test to do.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

Went for a hard run last night, and then I pulled over as quick as possible, so that I could see if my manifold glows. It does... I probably need to add some timing.

what is the point of this insanity?

 

[LinuxRacr]

What a great test to do.

Thanks for the suggesion. Now I just need to know where I would need to add the timing. I have heard that you want the least amount of timing where you peak torque is, and you want to go up from there as the RPM's rise.

Ken, if you retard your timing too much your EGT's go up. My map is way too conservative on the timing. When I retune, I will tune around the trigger angle of 67.

 

[TurfBurn]

Pull timing back by roughly 3-5 degrees relative between 3500 and 4500 rpm's... that is the peak torque range... starting just after 4500 you can add that back in progressively so that you have full timing back by 5500, and then push it up by a couple of degrees up to 7000 rpm's...

If you have the JandS hooked up then knoc (pun NOT intended.. this timing map shouldn't knock.. doesn't for me) yourself out... these are the absolute timing numbers relative to TDC that I ran/run: 500 - 12, 1000-15 1500-17 2000-22 2500-28 3000-30 3500-27 4000 - 26 4500 - 27, 5000- 29 5500 -30, 6000-31 6500 -31 and 7000- 32

Then there are various correction factors for temperature and boost etc to modify those numbers...

 

[glyph]

Success: at least partially. I have the car running, and I have driven it around, and I think I am progressing on the fuel map. Do keep your thread clean, patrick, I put it in my own. However, if you knowledgeable folks would check it out and help me out if you can, I would greatly appreciate it.

Oh yeah, the link to my haltech thread:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104997

 

[LinuxRacr]

Thought I'd update on what was discovered last night. I met up with some of the DFW crew up at Sonic for a meet, and we were standing behind my car. We all noticed that my exhaust gasses were damn hot! Our legs got burned a little from the heat.So I ran a little experiment. I changed the trigger angle in my HalWin software from 55 degrees to 67 degrees just for s**** and giggles. We all noticed that the exahust temps were a lot cooler, and more in line with Blake's MSP with the stock ECU next to me. After that, I started working on a new map with that trigger angle of 64 dialed in (working my way up to 67). Of course the car was noticably WEAK compared to the previous value. This is because I will have to add timing to get my power back. The higher triggler angle allows me to add timing. I will work on this new map as I have time.

 

[TurfBurn]

Hmmm... that's weird because that is backwards unless I'm misunderstanding what occured with the trigger angle.... your EGT's should cool as you advance timing... and heat up as you retard timing.... and if you had advanced your timing enough to get the car to change exhaust temp it should have felt stronger unless you went way too far... in which case you'd likely have other issues...

Is your exhaust and cats different in any way really from his? Also keep in mind how lean/rich you are at idle make a big difference too.

Later!

Steve