LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

acidbbg said:
300hp sounds like a waste of forged internals...but to each is own...

over $2,000 just in parts alone...for what?? 50hp?

many protege's can get 250whp with stock internals...

chas

and then they go boom! :)

It's all about reliability... and having the ability to do more if needed. 2000 in parts won't even get you a turbo kit.... so it's what roughly 3000 for a base kit and you are looking at 70 hp or so? Not much different really! Not everybody has a turbo... so the MSP skews the pricing a bit in the hp to dollar department...

What's the point of more then 300 hp? sounds like a waste of tires to me :) LOL. Don't mean to sound like an ass.. so I apologize in advance... but word is traction is a wee bit hard at that point...
 
TurfBurn said:
and then they go boom! :)

It's all about reliability... and having the ability to do more if needed. 2000 in parts won't even get you a turbo kit.... so it's what roughly 3000 for a base kit and you are looking at 70 hp or so? Not much different really! Not everybody has a turbo... so the MSP skews the pricing a bit in the hp to dollar department...

What's the point of more then 300 hp? sounds like a waste of tires to me :) LOL. Don't mean to sound like an ass.. so I apologize in advance... but word is traction is a wee bit hard at that point...

I hear what you are saying..but 250whp can be reliable..depends..on your driving...

And tracition..was an issue back in the day..but since than..they came out with something called an Electronic Boost controoler it shouldn't be an issue!

chas(smash)
 
TurfBurn said:
and then they go boom! :)

It's all about reliability... and having the ability to do more if needed. 2000 in parts won't even get you a turbo kit.... so it's what roughly 3000 for a base kit and you are looking at 70 hp or so? Not much different really! Not everybody has a turbo... so the MSP skews the pricing a bit in the hp to dollar department...

What's the point of more then 300 hp? sounds like a waste of tires to me :) LOL. Don't mean to sound like an ass.. so I apologize in advance... but word is traction is a wee bit hard at that point...

See above in red. That is exactly what I said before. And no, not for 50 hp, for more like 180 WHP + from where I was before boost.
 
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acidbbg said:
I hear what you are saying..but 250whp can be reliable..depends..on your driving...


well if you aren't flooring it all the time, its not 250whp.... therefore it will be reliable. If you are using the power all the time, it sure as hell wont be reliable.

the point is to have a motor that won't stress, because the stock one SURE as hell will at 250whp.
Personally, i don't have $10k to drop at once. I will take my 300whp for NOW, and down the road SLOWLY do other things and end up at 500whp, who knows.
but im sure as hell NOT complaining about 300whp.
 
tripoint engineering has stated in the past they do not believe the transmission on the protege is long lived much past 250 whp anyways. and there are not many proteges running 250whp on stock internals. i can think of two, maybe three
 
<----Soon to be 250whp on stock internals!

new turbo in the mail (t3 turbo with upgraded t4 wheel..and exhuast cutout..

chas
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
tripoint engineering has stated in the past they do not believe the transmission on the protege is long lived much past 250 whp anyways. and there are not many proteges running 250whp on stock internals. i can think of two, maybe three

I hope to have AT LEAST one laying around... and I am still going to work on stronger gears... just expensive and takes a long time!

Any word on the ETA of your car back yet Patrick?

Did you get to tune the pump feature for highway stuff? I love that feature... it is amazing how much better than stock you can get the car to accelerate once you get that thing tuned right... just great that you can hit the pedal and it goes instantly rather than that momentary delay before it takes off... :)
 
acidbbg said:
<----Soon to be 250whp on stock internals!

new turbo in the mail (t3 turbo with upgraded t4 wheel..and exhuast cutout..

chas

Soon to go boom LOL :).

Honestly man anything past 10-12 psi is just a matter of time.. My car went about 25,000 miles before it happened... I hope for your sake it doesn't... but good luck! And start a savings ;).

EDIT: And I still want to hear more on the Haltech... Any random ramblings are welcome Patrick! :) Was there anything you DIDN'T like? the system is really quite good... so I'd be curious if you didn't like anything.
 
does the haltech let you clamp max and min timing values to help prevent anything from going stupidly wrong by accident?

I didn't realize I had that on... when I did my tuning last year I kept pushing timing and was up to sick numbers and couldn't figure out why it kept taking the timing... later figured out that I had the timing capped and I could move the number all day long and she'd never move above 30 degrees :) LOL.. doh! Stupid details.
 
and we are all grateful. Though I do miss my wonderful prose...
 
LinuxRacr said:
Yep, a map contains all your settings too. Here is more info on the heat ranges of plugs: http://www.densoiridium.com/heatranges.htm

Okay, I have myself somewhat educated (to the extent NGK's and Denso's pages go). You went to a colder heat range by two levels (7) on the plugs, and they fouled. So you backed off back to a one level colder heat range (6), AND you modified the gap?

I looked at my Densos, they came from the store IK20, which is the stock heat range, so I would want to go colder, after I have some basic tuning done, I imagine, to help limit the number of things to attribute any problems too (basic troubleshooting). The problem is, I can't find what the Denso heat range numbers actually mean. The NGK states each number is equivalent to 75-100whp changes. I can't find a similar definition for the Densos. My stock heat range is 20 for those.
 

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