Lewis7789's 2003 Protege5 build thread
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Just a word of caution: is that the pressure cap on the water neck or just a "flat" cap? The overflow needs to be paired with the pressure cap for the system to work properly. I don't know if you can just swap them around because the pressure cap requires more "depth" if you know what I mean. Also, if it is the pressure cap or you can switch them you need to be VERY accurate with your drilling or the system won't work either.
The stock one is just a flat cap. But I'm going to see if a pressurized cap will physically fit first before I proceed.
What do you mean about the drilling part, Jon? I would be adding a nipple in the water neck where the KLG4 has a nipple stock. There is flat spot on the JDM KL neck where it would go. I'll take pics tonight to explain better. But again, I'm all for advice and precautions. I'm kinda thinking outloud again... heh-heh
What do you mean about the drilling part, Jon? I would be adding a nipple in the water neck where the KLG4 has a nipple stock. There is flat spot on the JDM KL neck where it would go. I'll take pics tonight to explain better. But again, I'm all for advice and precautions. I'm kinda thinking outloud again... heh-heh
I guess I'm a little confused as to how that system works. My understanding is the cooling system is closed (engine and/or radiator) until pressure/temperature increases sufficiently to open the pressure cap. When the cap opens it allows the heated coolant/vapor to exit into the overflow bottle. When the cap is closed no coolant can escape. That's why I thought the hole needed to be exact; to be sealed off when the pressure cap was closed and open when the cap was open. Maybe it's different with that system? Are you sure it's just a flat cap?
Well now ya got me confused. lulz. But what you're saying makes sense. I still need to research why Mazda has that flat cap there anyway. But yeah, it's just a flat cap, at least on the JDM and USDM KL's for the Milly without the nipple. You can see in the pic above the overflow tank has the pressurized cap. There are at least 3 different coolant setups for the the KL that I know of. I'm just trying to build the easiest, best and cleanest. But I still have lots to learn, obviously.
Now I totally see what you were talking about, Jon. While it is a flat cap, I can't just use a pressurized cap on it because the depth of the nipple is wrong. I went out and looked at the Milly's set up. I could drill/tap a nipple (I hate using that word, haha) there but would still need a pressurized cap on the aftermarket overflow bottle. There just wouldn't be an escape tube for overflow if the cap was over pressurized. Right? Hard to explain without pics and such...
fishdonotbounce
Registered Zombie
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- 08.5 CWP Speed3
Lol shut up Jake. Hahahaha.
Talking about your cooling solution brings up something I've been fighting since day 1.
My system pressurizes just fine - and now that it's 100 degrees outside - every time I come to a rest (traffic, stop lights, etc) after running for a good bit - the overflow pukes coolant from the cap (the reservoir overfills essentially). I noticed something odd though - a trail of coolant that's been burned onto the radiator - and it's coming from the top spigot (return) of the radiator. After closer inspection - it's got a crack all around the neck of the radiator (gotta love plastic rad's.....right?).
I'm now researching a new coolant solution that will utilize an aluminum radiator of the correct sizing - and possibly relocating the overflow tank, in large, because of the turbo components that are soon to be installed.
suggestions on radiator? I don't want to bit from your research - but man....it's mainly your fault I did this swap. I blame you implicitly! (eyeballs)
Anyways - boost is otw. 8psi to start, megasquirt pnp for the KL is almost bought and paid for (150 left on payoff). Gonna be a nice show once I get all that dialed in...
My system pressurizes just fine - and now that it's 100 degrees outside - every time I come to a rest (traffic, stop lights, etc) after running for a good bit - the overflow pukes coolant from the cap (the reservoir overfills essentially). I noticed something odd though - a trail of coolant that's been burned onto the radiator - and it's coming from the top spigot (return) of the radiator. After closer inspection - it's got a crack all around the neck of the radiator (gotta love plastic rad's.....right?).
I'm now researching a new coolant solution that will utilize an aluminum radiator of the correct sizing - and possibly relocating the overflow tank, in large, because of the turbo components that are soon to be installed.
suggestions on radiator? I don't want to bit from your research - but man....it's mainly your fault I did this swap. I blame you implicitly! (eyeballs)
Anyways - boost is otw. 8psi to start, megasquirt pnp for the KL is almost bought and paid for (150 left on payoff). Gonna be a nice show once I get all that dialed in...
Haha, but you know you love your KL. 
I'm still debating on which radiator to use. Unfortunately, we don't have many options. I could just use a stock PGT rad setup like I did with the first swap, it worked just fine and was inexpensive. Or use a universal rad from Mishimoto, and have the top elbow modified to clear the alternator.
http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-universal-aluminum-radiator-mmrad-uni-25.html
Or use a Mishimoto Protege radiator and run the coolant lines over from top and bottom. Pope ran that setup with his boosted KL Protege so at least I know it will work. The radiator won't need to be modified, will bolt right in but I don't like the idea of running the lines from side to side since the inlet/outlets are on the wrong sides. More research to be had...
Glad you got the MS PNP and are going turbo too! I can't wait to see/hear how it is, man. I'm still a long way off till I get a turbo in mine (probably not until the fall/winter).
I'm still debating on which radiator to use. Unfortunately, we don't have many options. I could just use a stock PGT rad setup like I did with the first swap, it worked just fine and was inexpensive. Or use a universal rad from Mishimoto, and have the top elbow modified to clear the alternator.
http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-universal-aluminum-radiator-mmrad-uni-25.html
Or use a Mishimoto Protege radiator and run the coolant lines over from top and bottom. Pope ran that setup with his boosted KL Protege so at least I know it will work. The radiator won't need to be modified, will bolt right in but I don't like the idea of running the lines from side to side since the inlet/outlets are on the wrong sides. More research to be had...
Glad you got the MS PNP and are going turbo too! I can't wait to see/hear how it is, man. I'm still a long way off till I get a turbo in mine (probably not until the fall/winter).
Evan, what about a Miata radiator? Many aftermarket options, dimensions will fit by my measurements, Inlets/outlets are on correct sides, the passenger neck can be added onto/modified to make a cleaner route to the neck on the motor.
princess peach
Member
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- '92 Miata, '06 MS6
oh boy, you said the M word...
Lulz, Peaches. Yeah, Justin, I looked into the Miata radiator on the first swap. The pass upper tube clears the alt. but would need to be modified as well since it's to the right of it. I did some measurements from Phen's Miata rad. But that rad would at least have the bottom tube on the correct side. I just wish the KL Rad didn't have that extreme 45' angle on the pass tube.
I'm getting this windshield banner after the KL swap. (Thanks for the link, Wes)
http://leftlanedrivers.org/
http://leftlanedrivers.org/
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That's awesome!!!!
CheeseHelmet
Member
I'm getting this windshield banner after the KL swap. (Thanks for the link, Wes)
http://leftlanedrivers.org/
Get that s*** now, it's like that rule doesn't even exist in Ohio!
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