Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)
- Thread starter Lewis7789
- Start date
- Status
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Personally I don't think the gains outweigh the tradeoffs (especially if you're worried about sound (thought old people couldn't hear, anyway...)). I mean if you want to do it for the baller factor, that's cool, or if you anticipate putting messy things in the back and just hosing it out, that's cool to, but I doubt you'd notice a difference in weight. The seats and spare have to weigh the most.
The garage was a freaking disaster since the Milly swap. And since build threads are much more fun with pics.
Before;
After;
I need to find more shelves so I can organize my parts and get Phens shelf back to him. But it's nice to have a clean workspace again.
Before;
After;
I need to find more shelves so I can organize my parts and get Phens shelf back to him. But it's nice to have a clean workspace again.
Hey did you bother to get in on the GB for the Clunk Fix? I managed to get my hands on one and the improvement even in handling, because it stiffens the SB is really nice. I posted in the thread and it was a trouble free install.
And as far as the interior goes, it's pretty much useless now since it will never go back to stock. And weight is still weight, no matter how much or how little. Just like every little power mod helps, no matter how small. All those little bits add up. Of course it's not going to be like "Woah, my car is a gazillion times faster now since I've lost 20lbs in the back!". But every little bit helps.
Wildcard, I thought that clunk fix was only for the Racing Beat rear sway? I have a Progress. And speaking of clunk, I need to order shorter rear endlinks. I have no clunk anymore because they bar is actually resting on a rear cross bar suspension bit. Haha.
Yeah the Clunk Fix is for RB, thought it was a RBSB you had there my bad. I have 2 friends in out little club here and they were worried about clunking issues with their Progress bar.
When I did the enduro race I did not go out on a full tank when others (normally faster cars) did. I was passing them like a boss. The only diff was a half a tank of gas, or 66 pounds. But that's in a controlled race environment. I never in a millions years ever thought about cutting the inside of my doors out or changing from glass to plexi glass, but now seeing them faster cars in my rear veiw it a must. But again if it where just a street car whats the point?
Very interesting, AJ and iracemine. I didn't think the weight difference would be that noticeable. I remember I weighed my P5 with the partially gutted rear, half tank of gas, spare tire and me (180lbs) and it was 2840lbs. Brians (BrianMPt or something like that) said his weighs around 2300 IIRC.
But my P5's purpose will be for the track. But I still want to enjoy it on the streets every now and then, like on the weekends. Ya know what I mean?
But my P5's purpose will be for the track. But I still want to enjoy it on the streets every now and then, like on the weekends. Ya know what I mean?
CheeseHelmet
Member
i had so much fun with my gutted car on the track, that i would leave it gutted for like a month. i hated puting the interior back in
I had so much fun not on the track with my gutted P5
But the noise gets annoying after a while, especially on the highway...
Hmm, Cres talking about being glad to have his power steering back got me thinking about deleting mine... I need to look into converting the rack and all that jazz. I have read a few PGT guys have deleted theirs and used a different steering rack to lighten it up. But that would delete the power steering reservoir and that ******* hoses that don't fit. More research to be had.
Evan, when I'm done with the RX-7 I'll have to give you a ride and then you can tell me if it's loud or not. ITB's, straight exhaust, no soundproofing...
Regarding the power steering, if you're going to remove it, do it right. I know for Miatas and RX-7s there is a way to truly "de-power" the rack by removing a bunch of internal seals, so I don't see why you couldn't do the same with the Protege. I also think a critical thing to do when de-powering a rack is to get rid of the "play" as well.
Regarding the power steering, if you're going to remove it, do it right. I know for Miatas and RX-7s there is a way to truly "de-power" the rack by removing a bunch of internal seals, so I don't see why you couldn't do the same with the Protege. I also think a critical thing to do when de-powering a rack is to get rid of the "play" as well.
Yeah, I would do it right, fo sho. I need to do more research into it.
And I had a completely gutted EG Civic hatch with an exhaust and it was loud but I didn't mind it. I rode along in Marc's gutted RX-7 at BeaveRun and it wasn't as loud as I was expecting. It won't be my DD so I'm not too worried about it. BTW, I'm super excited to get a ride in your RX-7, Jon. It's going to be epic. haha
And I had a completely gutted EG Civic hatch with an exhaust and it was loud but I didn't mind it. I rode along in Marc's gutted RX-7 at BeaveRun and it wasn't as loud as I was expecting. It won't be my DD so I'm not too worried about it. BTW, I'm super excited to get a ride in your RX-7, Jon. It's going to be epic. haha
- Status
