Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)

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Holy sheeeeyit, JK. Your Probe sounds freaking amazing! (Hope you don't mind me posting this.) These are the videos that keep me motivated. :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsgXm3akW8

My face when I watched that vid

177.jpg
 
So after another evening of research and looking up forums, it apears I should run a KL47 MAF sensor for the 2.5 Milly. Which is good because they are cheap ($45 shipped on eBay) and a MAF flows a bit better than the VAF. Bad because I wasted $120 on the KL36 ECU and JE-50 VAF. heh-heh. Oh well, that's what I get for not doing enough research. Bullshark, need a ECU and VAF? $120 shipped. ;)
 
So after another evening of research and looking up forums, it apears I should run a KL47 MAF sensor for the 2.5 Milly. Which is good because they are cheap ($45 shipped on eBay) and a MAF flows a bit better than the VAF. Bad because I wasted $120 on the KL36 ECU and JE-50 VAF. heh-heh. Oh well, that's what I get for not doing enough research. Bullshark, need a ECU and VAF? $120 shipped. ;)

Will you still be able to test the two ecus at the dyno day? All of them are starting to turn into alphabet soup..
 
Why do you think I started with the Milly. And I got both sitting on my bench now too....

The IAC has 2 sides to it. The water and air side. when you clean the tb everything washes into the IAC. Ask me how i found this tad bit of info out. Just remove the 4 screws on the TB bottom (holds the IAC on) and the part you remove clean with wd40 so you do not ruin the thermo wax and the tb side i used carb x and it ate right through it. I go a couple spares laying around so if you wait a week or so i can make you one. i just have to get the MP3 ready to sell next week and finish this knock sensor issue on the probe as we speak. Also did you convert the timing belt tensioner over to a manual tensioner? may save some head ache later as well. So many tricks to these engines.....
 
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My face when I watched that vid

177.jpg

Lol. Thanks. That was:

Exhaust dumped (had a chambered resonator, which didn't like to flow but was quiet)
ZE IM
10:1 pistons
stock heads
stock exhaust cams (boooo with nitrous and aftermarket intake cams)
shorty headers
68mm tb
55 wet shot (picked up 55whp/85wtq, lol)
MS1 v3.0

Made only 224whp/252wtq (21% loaded dynojet)

Dyno'd on another dyno and saw 235whp/270wtq (normal 16% loaded dynojet)

..should be a lot meaner in the coming months..oh btw, that car in the video is for sale :D
 
Too much research can be just as bad as not enough sometimes. Start second guessing everything, and then you have too much information available to keep straight.

I'm going to have to disagree with that. I think there are like peaks on a graph concerning the level of "knowing" things. The first peak is where I was before he started the swap, I thought I knew a lot. Then after he started asking me more questions, I'm like "huh, I really don't know that much." And then we get to where I am now, which is clearly realizing that I don't know much, and haven't done enough research about the motors. If you take a break with it for a while and come back and really learn all the differences, so that you know all the stuff off the top of your head, then you've mastered it, and proceeded past the "soup" stage.
 
I suppose I am well past the soup stage..lol. My soup has gone bad, lol.

I like the thinking in your post though, it is very true. You get a basic knowledge, and then you think you know..then you get into the knitty-gritty and realize there is a LOT more than initially thought.

I don't think someone can over research a project like this. I think what CAN happen is that someone does a ton of research and has no way to organize the new-found knowledge..then it can be confusing and you will start second-guessing yourself. You have to have a way to organize all of the stuff you learn when taking on a project that will require learning a lot of new stuff all at once. I have emails upon email, notes taken from phone calls I have made, spreadsheets, etc..to keep my stuff organized.
 
Research took me well over a year before I even laid hands on the engine. That was my downfall, not i got most everything needed and now I am sick of the mazda and not even going to finish what was 2 years in the making. LOL I am typically the guy who dose minor research and jumps into things and it always works out but you research alot and it goes so much smoother. Trust me swaping a 420A for a 4G63 is not as easy as it would sound in a talon and had I done the research I would have found how much s*** needed changed. But in the end i had a bad ass running turbo talon. Lewis is on the right track. He is following what i had planned almost to the tee without ever sharing them.
 
C'mon Evan....let's turn the key! :)

Saw the pic over the weekend....looks sexay and that didn't take you long at all. You should use the rest of this winter to swap in the JDM AWD system. :)
 
Well, my plan now (and is the best one yet I think) is to buy Jon's Milly 1996 harness and probably a boat load of other parts from his Milly donor car. That way the engine will be OBD2 (I have e-Check here every 2 years) and will use a MAF instead of a VAF. And the wiring will be MUCH easier when I get to that stage.

And like I said on PT, I really gotta stop calling my motor a "JDM Millenia" motor since they didn't exsist over there. It's a Xedos 8 motor. They were produced from 95-02 and only the 1995 motors had square intake ports on the heads, all the other were oval. So I have a 1996 or later motor. So I think using the USDM Millenia harnesses from the engine bay will make things much easier and I can semi-revert to my original plan of swapping in a KLG4. I would love to eliminate the Protege harness from the engine bay altogether and have a nice, clean OEM looking set up. I have no problem doing the mechanical part of the wiring harnesses since I love to solder and am pretty anal when it comes to this stuff. I still need to figure out the transmission aspect of the wiring though since I believe Millenia's were only offered with automatic tranys. Which is fine since my JDM MX-6 tranny has all the wiring pigtails still attached, hopefully I'll just be able to solder the correct wires together into the Milly harness. And hack up the PGT harness if need be.

I also mocked up the intermediate shaft and the bolt holes align perfectly to the Xedos block so that's good. One less thing to worry about. So a clutch and flywheel is next on the list. I was looking at RR-Racing online and they have some great prices on Clutch Masters clutch kits and flywheels. So I'm probably going to go with that setup. I'm still debating ona Stage 0 "R" or a Stage 1 though. I don't drag race so I'm sure a Stage 0 will be just fine for daily driving and weekend racing. But who knows if I will boost it in a year or not and would rather have the Stage 1. I don't mind spending a little extra money on a Stage 1 if it's a better option. But not if it's unnecessary. More research I have to do in that department...

Jon, thanks again for all the info and for replying to all my bloody PM's. haha. I'll clean my IAC this week following your steps. I wish you lived closer so I could help with the MP3 and Probe. I owe you.

JK, I like how you said "only made 224whp". That's seriously two of my FS-DE's. I dynoed 115whp on a Mustang dyno. haha.

And I agree with Wesley's "brain soup" analogy. Haha! When I first bought my motor I researched online for a solid month and thought I knew everything I would need to get the swap done. Then the more I researched the more I learned I didn't know jack. haha! So it's important for me to verify everything and double check all the sources. I've got folders on my computer stored of KL info, notes and bookmarks. The more I research the deeper I dig into the correct information. I'm glad I replaced the headgaskets because now I have a much better understanding of how my motor works and the variations from the ZE and DE. I don't mean to sound like a prick, but it's important for people to post CORRECT information. Not just stuff they heard from another member on another forum. I'm not talking about you guys here, you guys have helped me out TREMENDOUSLY already, and the motor hasn't even been started yet. haha. But I do a lot of research on PT, and all the other Mazda sites and am a member on there, I just don't post very much. I do most of my posting in this build thread, though I started one on PT since JK and a lot of those cats have been working on KL's since 1993. haha

Jeff, the AWD system would be epic. Maybe someday. haha

Okay, back to more research for me.
 
Lewis,

VERY nice progress...I just got a little emo about my swap :(

Hopefully you're turning the key soon, good luck!
 
Not a problem Lewis. let me know when this goes down cause hopefully i can have my new car on the road and road trip worth. LOL I just want to see what it will do. My vote is stage 1 cause you will turbo. HA curseing you from the start but atleast you will not have to worry with swaping it later. better to spend a little extra now then alot later to find out it dose not work right. Just my 2 cents.

Derek was just talking how he saw you on probetalk. Funny.

And for the tranny side of the harness it will not be to bad just follow the pin outs was my plan and splice a probe one in. just heat shrink everything.
 
Too bad the AWD system on the BJ chassis was about as strong as the rods in an FS.
 
Well, my plan now (and is the best one yet I think) is to buy Jon's Milly 1996 harness and probably a boat load of other parts from his Milly donor car. That way the engine will be OBD2 (I have e-Check here every 2 years) and will use a MAF instead of a VAF. And the wiring will be MUCH easier when I get to that stage.

And like I said on PT, I really gotta stop calling my motor a "JDM Millenia" motor since they didn't exsist over there. It's a Xedos 8 motor. They were produced from 95-02 and only the 1995 motors had square intake ports on the heads, all the other were oval. So I have a 1996 or later motor. So I think using the USDM Millenia harnesses from the engine bay will make things much easier and I can semi-revert to my original plan of swapping in a KLG4. I would love to eliminate the Protege harness from the engine bay altogether and have a nice, clean OEM looking set up. I have no problem doing the mechanical part of the wiring harnesses since I love to solder and am pretty anal when it comes to this stuff. I still need to figure out the transmission aspect of the wiring though since I believe Millenia's were only offered with automatic tranys. Which is fine since my JDM MX-6 tranny has all the wiring pigtails still attached, hopefully I'll just be able to solder the correct wires together into the Milly harness. And hack up the PGT harness if need be.

I also mocked up the intermediate shaft and the bolt holes align perfectly to the Xedos block so that's good. One less thing to worry about. So a clutch and flywheel is next on the list. I was looking at RR-Racing online and they have some great prices on Clutch Masters clutch kits and flywheels. So I'm probably going to go with that setup. I'm still debating ona Stage 0 "R" or a Stage 1 though. I don't drag race so I'm sure a Stage 0 will be just fine for daily driving and weekend racing. But who knows if I will boost it in a year or not and would rather have the Stage 1. I don't mind spending a little extra money on a Stage 1 if it's a better option. But not if it's unnecessary. More research I have to do in that department...

Jon, thanks again for all the info and for replying to all my bloody PM's. haha. I'll clean my IAC this week following your steps. I wish you lived closer so I could help with the MP3 and Probe. I owe you.

JK, I like how you said "only made 224whp". That's seriously two of my FS-DE's. I dynoed 115whp on a Mustang dyno. haha.

And I agree with Wesley's "brain soup" analogy. Haha! When I first bought my motor I researched online for a solid month and thought I knew everything I would need to get the swap done. Then the more I researched the more I learned I didn't know jack. haha! So it's important for me to verify everything and double check all the sources. I've got folders on my computer stored of KL info, notes and bookmarks. The more I research the deeper I dig into the correct information. I'm glad I replaced the headgaskets because now I have a much better understanding of how my motor works and the variations from the ZE and DE. I don't mean to sound like a prick, but it's important for people to post CORRECT information. Not just stuff they heard from another member on another forum. I'm not talking about you guys here, you guys have helped me out TREMENDOUSLY already, and the motor hasn't even been started yet. haha. But I do a lot of research on PT, and all the other Mazda sites and am a member on there, I just don't post very much. I do most of my posting in this build thread, though I started one on PT since JK and a lot of those cats have been working on KL's since 1993. haha

Jeff, the AWD system would be epic. Maybe someday. haha

Okay, back to more research for me.

You can usually find a used fidanza on PT or Mx6.com used for 150 bucks or so. Then you just have to replace the friction surface, which is only 60 bucks. Don't know if you care or not, just a suggestion to save a little money.

224whp..meh I was expecting more i suppose..
 
Lewis,

VERY nice progress...I just got a little emo about my swap :(

Hopefully you're turning the key soon, good luck!

Thanks, mate. What swap are you doing? Got a build thread or links?

Not a problem Lewis. let me know when this goes down cause hopefully i can have my new car on the road and road trip worth. LOL I just want to see what it will do. My vote is stage 1 cause you will turbo. HA curseing you from the start but atleast you will not have to worry with swaping it later. better to spend a little extra now then alot later to find out it dose not work right. Just my 2 cents.

Derek was just talking how he saw you on probetalk. Funny.

And for the tranny side of the harness it will not be to bad just follow the pin outs was my plan and splice a probe one in. just heat shrink everything.

Yeah, my thoughts exactly on the clutch. I jsut didn't want anything with a pressure plate that was unbearable for daily driving. But a Stage 1 will be fine. I don't really know cats' names unless I know them in real life. Who's Derek? And that's what I'll plan on doing for the tranny wiring too. Yeah, I'm basically doing what you were planning on doing so your help is greatly appreciated. I don't plan on doing the swap until it warms up a bit since I work really slowly and carefully, it will probably take a week to get everything in and ready for turn key. But I'm shooting for April 1st to be running reliably. You're more than welcome to come up and help out! haha

You can usually find a used fidanza on PT or Mx6.com used for 150 bucks or so. Then you just have to replace the friction surface, which is only 60 bucks. Don't know if you care or not, just a suggestion to save a little money.

224whp..meh I was expecting more i suppose..

I've seen a few Fidanza's on PT for sale but to be honest, I would rather spend a few bucks extra and make sure I get new parts. I just don't trust people I've never met and see how they treat their own cars. And I would soil myself if I every broke 200whp. Haha! Your PGT is badass.
 
Derek = prdracing (forum name) not to be confussed with PRD racing (the company) LOL. a.k.a. the guys who probe we are building.

PM send back your way....

If I get my new toy I might be up there for the fun;)
 
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