Lets Rev Them Up!!!!

93 VR R1. Nothing very radical.
Engine
Simplified Sequential twins, stock Ports with double-throttle, AWS and all emissions deleted. A Garfinkle idler pulley added in place of airpump. Re-located IAT, Red silicone vacuum hoses, DaleClark viton check valves, Goodridge Stainless OMP lines, FC (S5) thermoswitch. Greddy intake elbow with M2 hard pipe to a PFS Intercooler; Modified PFS intake system w/K & N filter; HTS silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps; HKS SSQ BOV, MAZDASPEED Strut brace. Fluidyne Radiator, AST deleted. Apex'i PFC w/Commander. And alot of crap polished or powder coated.
Drive-train
ACT SS clutch and pressure plate; Noltec motor mounts. Pettit Racing short-shifter. OEM Cruise control added. Redline Synthetic fluids.
Suspension:
Currently set up for AutoX....GAB Super 'R' Eight-way adjustable shocks w/Eibach coilovers on Ground Control adjustable height perches. Tri-point adjustable front sway-bar with Racing Beat sway-bar brace reinforcement.
Exhaust:
Wrapped and coated M2 Downpipe, Bonez Hi-flow cat (inlet and outlets also wrapped) and Greddy SP cat-back.
Interior:
Defi "D" Series boost gauge in a Pettit Racing column gauge pod, Defi 'D' Series Temp gauge in an "A" pillar pod. PFC Commander in custom Gotham Racing holder. Redline leather shifter and E-brake boots w/red stitching. 5-Speed RX8 shifter knob. Nakamichi CD head-unit w/Eclipse speakers in stock locations. WideFoot pedal extension and custom embroidered floor mats.

Not a very good with a camera...but see below for a current engine picture:
 
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88 rx7 se

full turbo drive terrain swap, 2 1/2 dp,3'' cat, apexi n1 duals, ground control w/ kyb agx,energy suspension bushing kit,ait d1 kit,ait widebody fenders and quaters,safc,vert wheels, 5 lug swap w/ 4 piston calipers

right now
striped down to bare shell, ready for sand blasting.orgin lab stream line kit with wide body fenders and quaters,full motor rebuild bu k&d rotary,t3/t4 hybrid,factory artic silver paint and volk wheels

rx7.jpg
 
87 TII S4

Tein Coilovers
GReddy Strut bars, front(upper and lower) and Rear
Recaro Racing Seats
RA seals
Welded Rear Diff
Custom Taylor 8.2 Plug Wires

I also have a 87 TII Chassis that I am just starting to strip down and get ready for paint.
 
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87 TII S4

Tein Coilovers
GReddy Strut bars, front(upper and lower) and Rear
Ricaro Racing Seats
RA seals
Welded Rear Diff
Custom Taylor 8.2 Plug Wires

I also have a 87 TII Chassis that I am just starting to strip down and get ready for paint.

do u have a bigger resolution of ur signature? i like it.
 
'89 GXL

Mostly stock save for some crappy Borbet wheels and an aftermarket headunit (installed by P.O.). Only planned mods are pretty much wheels/tires/suspension in the immediate future. I've decided I want to spend more time/money restoring the car to it's former glory:

Restore:
-Full tune up (fluids, ignition, filters, etc.)
-Brakes (rotors and pads)
-Fix Locks
-Fix Wipers
-Replace all cracked interior parts
-H4 Headlight conversion
-Restore/fix exterior lights
-Dent repair
-Full exterior respray (blaze red)

Mod:
-16x8 Enkei RPF-1 wheels (already have)
-245/45R16 tires
-BC Racing Coilovers
-Polyurethane bushing kit
-Short shifter and bushings
-Engine/trans/diff competition mounts
-SS brake/clutch lines
-Sparco Torino II Seats (already have)
-AEM Oil Pressure/Temperatures Gauges (already have)

Trying to buy a house now so the car has been set aside. I don't really know what the future holds power-wise (TII swap, bridgeport N/A, 13B-RE swap, 20B swap???).
 
86 GXL n/a pretty much stock , installed borla (cat) exhaust, K&n hi-flo air filter painted - center of gxl wheels black w/ set of fuzion tires . ran some laps w/ it at track.....fun time interested in short shifter for it, not sure whats available? and if turbo or nos system is the next step
 
www.corksport.com
they just finished up their short shifter for the FC. i can tell you that i have been watching this shifter take shape and it has been well designed. during the design process, one of the shifters on another one of their cars, totally unrelated to the rx-7, broke and they tested the FC shifter for several more months after that to make sure that it was an isolated incident and wasn't going to happen on the FC shifter. very conscious of their quality there.

turbo is hard to swap for. it's not just about slapping a kit on the naturally aspirated motor and enjoying it. the motor, trans, and rear-end are all different on the turbo model.
 
I'd steer clear of NOS too.
If you decide to track it much, cooling mods and brakes would be the next step IMO. But then those aren't a bad idea even for a street car.
Corksport also makes some nice stainless brake lines too.
 
n/a mods

What common modifications could be done to intake and ignition if not going w/ turbo or nos . Didn't want to go internally into motor yet w/ porting...... etc.
 
not really a whole lot of mods for ignition and intake if you are staying n/a. corksport makes an intake tube that could give some gains and you could build an airbox. with ignition, you need to go into management mods to control different types. other coils are not as strong as the FC coils. some of the FD guys have even swapped over to FC coils because of the quality.
 
Despite all the trouble that the rotary caused for Mazda, I believe that it also put them on the map in a way.
 
well right now i have it in a hundred pieces removing the hvac, taking out all the sound deadening, rollcage, and paint... i am also installing a turbo driveline (minus the turbo... N/A ALL THE WAY!!!!!). i have a 4 port that i am trying to get bridgeported, and ecu is off getting rtek....

what the car has done already

short shifter.... solid engine mounts... full exhaust... 16 act meshies... Battery relocated... coilover suspension... swaybars... ALL emissions, ps/ap/bac/avc/egr/omp/ and other things removed... e-fan.... and probably alot of other things i forgot

betsy002.jpg


i have more pics, but this is the only on my phone... this is before the coilovers
 
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If you're going that far I would have ditched the Rtek and gone with a full standalone and ITB's if you're going to stay N/A.
 
S4 TII block, Rotors
Full Rebuild all brand new OEM seals form Mazda (built myself)
Mazdaspeed Hardened Motor Mounts
Streetported exhaust
Ported Intake Manifold
Secondary Throttle Plates removed
All emmisions removed
ACT 8.4 LB flywheel
Exedy Street/Strip Clutch
S5 Turbo (Ported Wastegate)
HKS wastegate actuator
HKS Super Racing Blow off Valve
HKS RS intake
3 in. Racing Beat down pipe
3 in. HKS Hi-Power exhaust

HKS Hipermax II Coilovers

HKS Boost gauge, Turbo Timer

Vert BBS rims

That's all I can think about for now. Too bad I never got to finish it before school :(

engine.jpg
 
Sounds good....really good. More pics please.

If I could make one suggestion....don't forget cooling, especially since your forced induction.
It looks like your still sporting the stock radiator. At least with the FD, they were decently efficient, but those plastic end-tanks can fail with heat and age. Sometimes catastrophically. You might consider a quality aftermarket aluminum replacement. A little larger capacity wouldn't hurt as long as you keep good ducting.
 
I'll try to get some more pics If I can.

Ya great suggestion thanks! I was going to stay stock top mount, radiator, etc. But since it's going to be a year probably til I'm even able to put it back together I'll have to get an aftermarket radiator in there, it seems though that every time I look up which radiator cools the best everyone has a different opinion. I'll have to figure out which one I like. And definitely pick up a front mount.

Thanks alot for the complements! Just can't wait to get back and be able to finish it up!
 
Not all that familiar with the FC or custom set-ups. With the S6, Fluidyne is popular and about 150% larger that OEM, efficient and has less fitment issues. Koyo is also popular and about 200% larger, but typically comes with more fitment problems. Expect more cooling issues for street use with a FMIC. I'd think a move to an electric fan set-up will be needed. And ducting (from an aftermarket front bumper) will be critical.
And don't forget...having a good cooling set-up, especially with forced induction, would also include cooling the oil.
 
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