Knock Sensor Location.. front of block?!

[Metallic36]

I doubt anyone can tell, but I took some photos.. of the driver's side. you can see the marks/letters, and it was too cold so I came back in to warm up before trying to put it at TDC.

 

[shane02pro5]

The "I" and "E" is on the cam gears looking from the passenger side.

 

[Metallic36]

Alright, going back out in a minute and seeing if I can turn the engine to TDC and trying to take off that plastic cover to see the cam gears.

The "I" and "E" is on the cam gears looking from the passenger side.

 

[nullbyte]

Alright, going back out in a minute and seeing if I can turn the engine to TDC and trying to take off that plastic cover to see the cam gears.

Unless you are using adjustable cam gears you should be look at the outside of the cam gears to set the timing. Something I'm confused about is that someone in this thread said that the best placement for the knock sensor would be the "Stock" location. Did the MSP come with a knock sensor?

 

[shane02pro5]

Yes at the back of the block above the oil filter.

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

That head definetly looks brand new! Good stuff.

 

[Metallic36]

Check this out.. I went outside because I thought I had seen the knock sensor on the front of the block, on the bottom near my downpipe. But.. someone else said to remove the intake manifold bracket and something else to get to it, so that would put the location on the back of the block above the oil filter. If so, then what is this? First photos show the thing that's on the back above the oil filter.. possibly the oil sending unit?? It has a greenish wire that comes out from it and looks like it goes to the alternator. And the other photos show the sensor that's on the front bottom of the block near the PS thing.

Yes at the back of the block above the oil filter.

 

[jimmysuite]

the first two pics are of your oil pressure sender and second two are of your stock knock sensor

 

[Metallic36]

Thanks, is there even a knock sensor at the back of the block near the oil filter? Had two people tell me there was so far..

the first two pics are of your oil pressure sender and second two are of your stock knock sensor

 

[Metallic36]

I found this while searching: http://www.protege5.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113431

Going back out for another look.

 

[Metallic36]

Still can't find it.. stupid question but do I need to drain my oil before taking off the oil filter? I may just have to do that so I can actually see something. I tried sticking my arm in through the top, I felt the oil filter but nothing up and to the right more. Apparently my knock sensor wasn't in the right position to begin with.

 

[Metallic36]

Turned it and this is what I got for the timing.. looks okay to me. But look how nasty my spark plug from Cyl 1 looks already. They haven't even been ran for an hour.. this is what my old ones looked like when I took them out.

 

[sailinMSP]

in the first picture of the cam gears and the timing belt, your timing belt is way to loose, i would bet that your timing belt has jumped a tooth and that would cause the lean/rich run which is the reason why your plugs are fouled and is probably the main cause of the motor shaking.

I would clean or replace spark plugs, re-time and tighten the timing belt and get the knock sensor in the stock location. that should be all the gremlins.

the shop that worked on your car had there head up there asses. i would make sure they installed the head right since they F***** everything else up.
I would also keep a book of pictures of everything they did wrong and try to get your money back since they did more bad then good to your motor.

 

[Metallic36]

How hard is it to tighten the timing belt? Just adjust the screw on the tensioner?

in the first picture of the cam gears and the timing belt, your timing belt is way to loose, i would bet that your timing belt has jumped a tooth and that would cause the lean/rich run which is the reason why your plugs are fouled and is probably the main cause of the motor shaking.

I would clean or replace spark plugs, re-time and tighten the timing belt and get the knock sensor in the stock location. that should be all the gremlins.

the shop that worked on your car had there head up there asses. i would make sure they installed the head right since they F***** everything else up.
I would also keep a book of pictures of everything they did wrong and try to get your money back since they did more bad then good to your motor.

 

[shane02pro5]

How can you tell the timing belt is loose...I can barely see it.

I'm confused there should just be a blind threaded hole for the knock sensor in the stock location.

Drain oil to remove filter move the knock sensor to the intended location and reroute the wiring. Make sure your timing belt tentioner is intact. Make sure #1 piston is all the way up.

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

I can see it and it does look VERY loose, I attached a picture of the belt the way it should be tensioned (not the best view but you can see it). Looks like the belt should be moved a tooth on the intake cam to make it flat, thats the side the tensioner is on too so thats the only way it can really go.

It reallys sucks what a bad job they did on your car. With the amount of work you're doing fixing it you could have just done it yourself, because you're going to have to take off your timing belt to re-time and tighten it.

 

[Metallic36]

Thanks, I'm probably going to go to a local shop and have them fix the timing, I just don't want to mess with it myself.. plus it's probably easier to do this all with a lift and all I have is a jack. The shop is only about a mile down the road so I may enter that as one of my options. There has been a belt squealing sound also.. possibly the timing belt?

I can see it and it does look VERY loose, I attached a picture of the belt the way it should be tensioned (not the best view but you can see it). Looks like the belt should be moved a tooth on the intake cam to make it flat, thats the side the tensioner is on too so thats the only way it can really go.

It reallys sucks what a bad job they did on your car. With the amount of work you're doing fixing it you could have just done it yourself, because you're going to have to take off your timing belt to re-time and tighten it.

 

[ItsSlow]

The timing belt wont squeal.. Thats your accessory belts..

 

[Metallic36]

Thanks, I'll add that to my fix-it list

The timing belt wont squeal.. Thats your accessory belts..

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

they have to take those belts off anyway to get to the timing belt, Whoever worked on your car last clearly didn't tighten them enough if they squeal, hopefully this shop will.