Just purchased AP
- Thread starter maxspeed3
- Start date
Nliiitend1
Member
Also, download ATR so that you can calibrate your MAF Sensor, which will help bring your LTFT values closer to 0.
mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
i have the atr and never even thought of working the MAF for some reason. im only at about 4-5% correction on the ltft's but what values would i readjust to correct this problem? i would love tobe down at 0. ive been working the cars parameters here and there and this will be another thing to add to the list i guess.
a what?
Can you give me some steps on how to do that?
In the intake tract, a set of vanes that straighten the airflow before it reaches the MAF. kinda looks like this
mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
air straightener work with aem and mazdaspeed intakes. its actually needed for the turbulant air. once i installed one it brought my ltft's from above 20% to as said like 4%. i dont know if you would be able to put an airstraightener int he fujita intake....isnt it all once piece?
mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
glad you like it. the more you add the more suprised youll be. this car is so restricted and with proper monitoring this things a beast.
make sure everythings running the way its supposed to, dont tune and forget, thats how things break.
Prime example - Me
Car started running slower than it used to, nothing major but just not as responsive, did a datalog and my butt dyno was right. I wasn't holding boost, my afr (air fuel ratio) was in the 16's (really really really really bad) and my fuel trims were all ****** up (stft went as high as +60%) turned out my MAF went bad (the sensor in the intake). At this point if i didnt monitor and wasnt anal about how my car is ( i almost always drive with the radio off just listening) and kept driving i probably would be on the blown engine threads
once you flash the car, drive easy and monitor your afr, part throttle driving and idle should be 14.7 or lower, if you go WOT it should drop to the 11's once your certain thats ok. do another pull but monitor KR, anything above 1 is a concern, some say 2 but any at all is a problem. if that checks out then you should ok. after about 100 miles or so of normal driving do another pull and datalog. check your LTFT. they should be within 8%. If all this checks out your good to go. Just do a log every once in a while to make sure all the parameters are still within acceptable limits. if not then you need to tweak the map yourself or get a protune
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mazdaspeed32007
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3
sometimes KR is the result of shifts so a really quick blip of KR might be known as a false reading if seen at your datalogs shift point. although if you see it consistently in those data logs i suggest taking a closer look at what might be the culprit. it gets fun the farther in you go. i get nervous changing some parameters sometimes but as long as you monitor then youll be fine. if something changes your motor can handle it for a little...its the lasting problmes than create catastrophic failure.
