Just ordered

[ml2008ms3]

I just ordered the following and have a few questions.

1. Corksport racepipe (stock fitment)
2. CP-E Xcel CAI
3. CP-E engine mount

I haven't seen any dyno charts for the racepipe with stock dp. Any guesses on the power gains? I'm guessing around 30hp with the CAI.

What's the next mod I should make for the best bang for the buck?

Thanks, Mark

 

[MS3 GT]

i dont think its goona gain 30hp with CAI and RP, u need DP/RP, CAI and BOV to get those #.

 

[ericrapp]

Racepipes are usually good for about 5-10. the MSCAI is good for twenty, that is a hard fact. so you will probably get near that. The downpipe is the biggest bang and the valve does nothing to increase power it might maintains boost better and allows boost to build quicker after shifting compared to stock. Still good mods, the power band will broaden a little and you will be happy i think.

 

[ml2008ms3]

Cool, thanks for the input. I just received the cp-e intake and it looks like it will take some work getting it installed. I want to wait and put on the racepipe at the same time so I will feel the whole difference at once. The engine mount wasn't in stock and I have to wait though.

Mark

 

[SallySpeed3]

Cool, thanks for the input. I just received the cp-e intake and it looks like it will take some work getting it installed. I want to wait and put on the racepipe at the same time so I will feel the whole difference at once. The engine mount wasn't in stock and I have to wait though.

Mark

I would reccomend that you actually do them seperately, that way you can really tell the difference they make. If you do both of them the same day, yes you'll be able to tell a huge difference, but i dunno, kinda takes away from the whole experience in my opinion. I would at least take it for a quick drive after the CAI install before installing the test pipe, but just my 2 cents. Welcome to the mod club. You'll be hooked in no time.

 

[mcb]

Seeing the real difference with a mod like the CAI need more than a quick run with it. It usually take some time for the ECU to settle the new maps. Adding a CAI on this car make a big change in the air quantities that goes in the engine.

And congrats on the CPE CAI, i have it and it a really nice product. You will definately feel a nice power gain with that.

 

[coololddude]

I would claim 30 anyway. If people doubt my HP claims I just tell them they probably had a bad install.

 

[MSMS3]

I would reccomend that you actually do them seperately, that way you can really tell the difference they make.

Excellent advice. It's usually best to do the mods one at a time and allow the ECU to adjust before moving to the next one. There have been too many members here that have made multiple mods at the same time and then encountered a problem with the engine missing, bogging, running roughly, throwing codes, losing boost, etc. It's very difficult to diagnose and fix the problem if you made multiple power changes at the same time. If you throw a CEL code you will know where to look to fix things.

I'd say do the intake first and let the car and ECU settle in for about 100 miles of varied driving and make sure everything is working right and then put the test pipe in.

Final thought: When improving flow on the exhaust side upstream of the CBE, even with just a race pipe/test pipe, you will be increasing boost a little and run some risk of exceeding the bleed-off ability of the wastegate. It would be time for you to install a good mechanical boost gauge to watch for boost creep - climbing boost that holds or continues to climb above about 17 psi.

For the boost gauge, you do not have to spend much money -- lots out there at auto parts stores for way less than $50 bucks. I'd recommend that you do the CAI first, put 100 miles on it and make sure all is well (including the need to keep wiping the smile off of your face), then put in the boost gauge before installing the test pipe and get used to what your stock pressures are under different driving conditions and make sure you did not get a vacuum leak during the gauge install.

Then a few days, perhaps a week after running with a properly working intake and a properly working boost gauge, then install the test pipe (a 10-15 minute task if you have a floor jack and jack stands).

Just my thoughts. Be progressive and let time pass between mods so you know where you are going based on where you have been.

Oh, and yes, with your CAI you should see 20 whp gain, with the test pipe maybe 5-10 more, but the gains from both are broad and all across the power band from 3K to 5.5k rpm or so. No peakiness. Real gains that are especially noticable in third gear and higher in midrange power for highway driving and at WOT to 5.5k rpm.

 

[ml2008ms3]

Thanks for the advice. I just spent the last 3-4 hours installing the CAI and once I got it all back together I couldn't put the car in 1st gear w/o the gear shift weight hitting the CAI tube. Has anyone ever reported that before?

I plan on doing what you said and waiting to install the test pipe for a while. In fact I'm thinking about taking it to an exhaust shop and having them take out one of the resonators and install the racepipe at the same time. I guess they won't do it though will they?

Mark

 

[ericrapp]

its pretty easy to do if you have ramps and a couple tools. Get under there and take a look before you have someone else do it. if you want to do the delete wait till you hear it with the new pipe imho. Most work depends on the shop. i bought my youngest daughter some very nice high performance summer tires for her Eclipse and one shop said they were no good and would not do it. They were brand new and from tire rack! Mazda dealership would not install my EBC brake pads? i told them i had done all the research, had a fair amount of experience and would sign a waiver. Heck it's my hard earned money haha so. Another key to modding and repairs is finding a good shop who understands you and does quality work. They are hard to find, that is why i try to do as much as i can myself. i am kinda cheep too! in regard to the intake i have a AEM and it is well clear of the shifter post at trans. Do a search or pm someone who has one i am thinking it is probably a matter of rotating the piping angles a little. Good luck!

 

[ml2008ms3]

Thanks. I found that I had mounted the air intake on the wrong side of the frame and when I switched it over there was no more clearance problem. I drove around today and really liked the extra power. The shade tree exhaust company removed one of the resonators, but wouldn't install the race pipe. I took a look at it when I was under the car at the exhaust shop and noticed how far back in there I had to reach the bolts. I'm going to give it a shot after I buy an extra long extension. After they removed the rear resonator I also really liked the sound. Not too much of a change from stock. When I install the racepipe is it going to be much louder?