Just got my mazdaspeed protege HELP!

mobstar

Member
Ok I have spent the last 3 days reading every post on this site and im still confused. My car is currently stock. I have 1500 to spend right now. I really want the Blow off valve sound first. I read all these posts about stalling, and idle problems, and I dont know if I should install other parts along with the BOV to avoid these issues. Or can I just buy the Greddy or the HKS bov and hook it up to a bunch of stock things and be fine? Also how hard is the installation. I really feel like im gonna get jumped on now cause I have read alot of BOV questions, but I really want to avoid any problems and just do it right. Also please include anyother ideas you would have on were and how to spend the rest of my modification money.

THANKS
 
buy a cold air intake and you will be able to hear the "turkey" much louder than before without messing with any bov/bpv s***.

If you are determined to get the BOV sound... at minimum you will need hardpipes and a dual setup if you dont want to stall...
 
there should be a sticky thread somewhere(i BELIEVE in the hot to section) called greddy type s with no stalling. or something.... however, you WILL need hardpipes unless you want to be really ghetto which if i'm not mistaken run slightly upwards of $200...

there's also a method in which you use a BOV in conjunction with your stock diverter valve so you get the "sound" but your motor still gets all the air it's supposed to... you still need hardpipes but this is IMO the safest way to go considering your motor is reading air that it's not getting with an atmospheric BOV.

it's an aweful lot of money to spend for a cool sound when really all you need is an intake and your car will blow off turkey style... and then you can sopend the rest of the cashon an exhaust/DSM-AFC/DSBC and be running like 8-9 PSi safely in no time...

search for sound clips of the "turkey" which can be accomplished with only an intake, and then make your decission.




EDIT** haha beat me to it! +rep for great minds think alike!
 
buy a hi boost fmic kit with the greddy type rs upgrade with injen intake that should run you about 1,220 shipped
 
YellowSpeedInNY said:
buy a hi boost fmic kit with the greddy type rs upgrade with injen intake that should run you about 1,220 shipped

Yea... my buddy (ttlkaos) just installed the new hiboost kit with the rs... It WILL stall if you boost the car and let off and put the clutch in... you will have to modifiy your driving habits. But the car sounds badass... Its not that big of a problem if your willing to not retain completly stock drivability.
 
after installing my hiboost fmic, injen cai, and greddy rs bov i did not get it to stall once. however the rpms would dip extremely low but the car always caught itself. i now have the dual bpv/bov setup and the car runs much better.
 
i had it liekthat too but i just run my greddy recirculated for now i want to relocate the MAFor run dual set up cause the car sounds so much cooler when its open vent
 
*warning noobish question* iirc someone had their maf in front of their bov does that make a difference?

just wondering even though i dont have a turbo.
 
DE31 said:
*warning noobish question* iirc someone had their maf in front of their bov does that make a difference?

just wondering even though i dont have a turbo.

You have to move the Mass Air, After to prevent the stalling..

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oops i made a mistake. i deleted part of the old post then type the other thing that i was thinking at the time. i meant to ask if putting the maf after the bov would make a difference. i need to get some coffee or something to jumpstart my mind.
 
DE31 said:
oops i made a mistake. i deleted part of the old post then type the other thing that i was thinking at the time. i meant to ask if putting the maf after the bov would make a difference. i need to get some coffee or something to jumpstart my mind.

Totally. numerous peeps here have moved the Mass-Air to the charge side wit years of sucess. I have 62,000 Km of Mass Air Relocation bliss..
 
I suggest making your car perform better with the $1500. You might like the way the stock BPV sounds after you get an exhaust, intake and/or hardpipes/fmic.
 
The Greddy How to thread is in my signature

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I was like you and spent about $300 on a hardpipe and greddy type s just to get the sound. Afterward I regretted having a car that sounded fast, but wasn't. Get some performance parts with that money.

I suggest and exhaust and injen intake. If you have enough left, get the hiboost FMIC and a used Greddy Type S BOV. The greddy will bolt right up to the hiboost pipe and you should be able to tighten the adjustment screw enough to stop stalling.

Before I got my FMIC, when I had the BOV on the turbo>intercooler pipe it was very easy to prevent stalling. Once I got the FMIC and the flange was on the intercooler>throttle body pipe, it took a lot more adjustment to find the right spot to prevent stallign and compressor surge (turkey)
 
if you get hard pipes and run the dual setup you should have no problems stalling. i bought my turbo hoses hard pipes for 150 from someone on cardomain. thats a lot better than 450. with fifteen hundred i agree with getting intake and exhaust. look around and maybe youll get lucky and find someone whose selling their hard pipes.
 
i think he should experience turkey before buying a BOV. because performancee wise he'd love his car with DSM AFC, exhaust, intake and boost controller. and it would still blow off loud it would just be turkey and not ppssssshhhtttt..
 
Few ?'s...is one really better than the other, pertaining to the greddy type s & the newer rs? and does the hiboost already have those included in the price?
 
The Type RS has a stiffer spring and is harder to adjust at low boost levels. Alot of people have issues getting rid of both stalling and compressor surge with the RS.

The Type S is designed for 10-20psi but works great at low boost levels too. i had it in my car for about 1.5 years running 4.5psi. Now I run between 8-10 with no issues. Been in there about 2-2.5 years total.

Plus the Type S is used (the RS replaced it) so it should be cheaper to buy.

I'm told the sound is different between the two, but I have not heard an RS in person.

You can get whatever BOV you want with the Hiboost kit, just need to pay extra. The kit comes with an HKS BPV that most people replace due to faulty build quality.
 
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You guys are good. If you need a more indepth answers or have more questions, feel free to call and get me on the phone...
 
my 2 c

TX Speed Demon said:
The Type RS has a stiffer spring and is harder to adjust at low boost levels. Alot of people have issues getting rid of both stalling and compressor surge with the RS.

The Type S is designed for 10-20psi but works great at low boost levels too. i had it in my car for about 1.5 years running 4.5psi. Now I run between 8-10 with no issues. Been in there about 2-2.5 years total.

Plus the Type S is used (the RS replaced it) so it should be cheaper to buy.

I'm told the sound is different between the two, but I have not heard an RS in person.

You can get whatever BOV you want with the Hiboost kit, just need to pay extra. The kit comes with an HKS BPV that most people replace due to faulty build quality.

Of all the BOV's I have seen in person, I personnaly believe that the HKS SSQV is the best hands down. But that is just my personal opinion:)
 
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