Just got my mazdaspeed protege HELP!

[StreetUnit]

Of all the BOV's I have seen in person, I personnaly believe that the HKS SSQV is the best hands down. But that is just my personal opinion

That is correct, Tials BOV is great also.

 

[tekkie]

That is correct, Tials BOV is great also.

yeah I have a tial one and I like it, its not as loud as the HKS but I guess it all depends what your looking for

 

[StreetUnit]

you know Cullen your a real ******* idiot, I disagree you post some dumb s*** about me, in this one I agree with you and you still have to post idiotic s***

go back to the other thread where I told you to get over yourself

And you are perfect.

wow

 

[Mutmatt]

the hostility is here? u guys need to take a few deep breaths... unless that is just bikkering between friends in that case what ever! wtf guys we are supposed to be helping eachother

 

[Hypnotized]

If you have 1500 to spend buy a FMIC kit. Then move the maf and you wont have any stalling issues. You can also wait and see if anyone is selling a used fmic kit and then you can use the leftover money and get an exhaust.

 

[Hypnotized]

Here are some pics of my setup just to show you how I have it done.

 

[genius]

pics...

Here are some pics of my setup just to show you how I have it done.

Since we are in the mood of I'll show you mine if you show me yours...

 

[kamikaze7]

First is a cold air intake, then exhaust. Turbo back is better then S-Pipe back but involves removing the exhaust manifold...time and time = money. With these upgrades the car will breathe and respond much better.

Next would be hard pipes. I would not recommend spending the money on a FMIC or SMIC until you figure our what your goal is for the car. The FMIC will look great but will not gain you any performance unless your really going to up the boost. Anything up to 10-12psi can be done with the stock IC. Anything over 12 will likely destroy your engine.

You need to decide how much boost, which equals $$$. You also need to decide whether you want show, go or both.

Start with the basics until you know how far you want to go!!!

 

[StreetUnit]

Since we are in the mood of I'll show you mine if you show me yours...

Where did you get that setup!!???

 

[StreetUnit]

First is a cold air intake, then exhaust. Turbo back is better then S-Pipe back but involves removing the exhaust manifold...time and time = money. With these upgrades the car will breathe and respond much better.

Next would be hard pipes. I would not recommend spending the money on a FMIC or SMIC until you figure our what your goal is for the car. The FMIC will look great but will not gain you any performance unless your really going to up the boost. Anything up to 10-12psi can be done with the stock IC. Anything over 12 will likely destroy your engine.

You need to decide how much boost, which equals $$$. You also need to decide whether you want show, go or both.

Start with the basics until you know how far you want to go!!!

Perfectly said, thats exactly what I preach!

 

[JDM Sam]

You all are all wrong. Engine management first. Stock ECU has a lot of untapped power due to the tune. Then front motor mount, new vacuum lines, exhaust, boost controller, hardpipes or a fmic with the blowoff valve of your choice, and a K&N drop in or intake.

I have right about $1500 in power and supporting mods and have proven to be fast enough w/o breaking the bank.

 

[StreetUnit]

You all are all wrong. Engine management first. Stock ECU has a lot of untapped power due to the tune. Then front motor mount, new vacuum lines, exhaust, boost controller, hardpipes or a fmic with the blowoff valve of your choice, and a K&N drop in or intake.

I have right about $1500 in power and supporting mods and have proven to be fast enough w/o breaking the bank.

Not everyone has the resources/ability to do an EMS. We all know there are big gains in timing and fuel control but if you go with an EMS first, you will also have to put a bunch of money into retuning after adding other bolt ons if you are unable to tune it yourself. Pluses and minus to every set up.

So it comes down to where each person wants to go with their car. Decide where you want the car to go and get on the right track so not to waste money!

 

[daedalus]

Not everyone has the resources/ability to do an EMS. We all know there are big gains in timing and fuel control but if you go with an EMS first, you will also have to put a bunch of money into retuning after adding other bolt ons if you are unable to tune it yourself. Pluses and minus to every set up.

So it comes down to where each person wants to go with their car. Decide where you want the car to go and get on the right track so not to waste money!

Very true, however I do see his point. With an inexpensive module like the DSM AFC, you can get very real gains that may have to be fine tuned with additional mods, but shouldnt need any drastic changes. WIth the new maps they are making I would allmost get a Corksport DP, HiBoost FMIC, DSM AFC and call it a day. Nice sounding car, with gobs more power than stock, and it shouldnt break the bank or the car.

 

[JDM Sam]

Not everyone has the resources/ability to do an EMS. We all know there are big gains in timing and fuel control but if you go with an EMS first, you will also have to put a bunch of money into retuning after adding other bolt ons if you are unable to tune it yourself. Pluses and minus to every set up.

So it comes down to where each person wants to go with their car. Decide where you want the car to go and get on the right track so not to waste money!

Since youre assuming the end user doesnt know anything about tuning. All the piggybacks people are using have support that are all premapped, unichip, mpi, splitsecond (DSM) afc. Even the stand alones have a growing map library. We have complete how-tos on the wiring and schematics for each system or something even easier the plug and play of the Unichip. Retuning does not cost money unless its the Unichip. Even then the Unichip is tuned well enough to support bolt on mods such as intake, exhuast, and fmic without need a retune. It's not wasting money when you improve you gas mileage, reduce your risk of blowing your motor, and have a mod that grows with your other mods. It smoothes out the power delivery from the choppy stock ecu. It's the only mod that makes a night and day difference on the entire power band, even on a stock car.

In this guy's case he has $1500 to spend enough to buy an ems/piggyback and few other bolt ons. The MSP's major problem is the midrange power delivery hesistation. Another is the flimsy motor mounts which cause poor shifting and wheel hop that eventually lead to LSD failure.

Yes, he can do the bolt ons exhaust, fmic, intake first. It'll make the already piss rich air/fuel even richer and waste gas. Running piss rich isn't good for a engine either, especially how the stock ecu dips in to the 9s in afrs. Being too rich can cause detonation also. You will be constantly changing your fouled spark plugs and flooding your cylinders with excessive fuel. So what do you consider a waste of money now?

You want cost per hp ratio right?
240HP @ 12 PSI to the wheels on a dynojet with just these mods. Injen CAI, 3 inch muffler shop special exhaust, Alum Hardpipes with HKS SSQV Bov, Greddy EBC, front motor mount, Irdium Plugs, and MPI Tuner.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

You want cost per hp ratio right?
240HP @ 12 PSI to the wheels on a dynojet with just these mods. Injen CAI, 3 inch muffler shop special exhaust, Alum Hardpipes with HKS SSQV Bov, Greddy EBC, front motor mount, Irdium Plugs, and MPI Tuner.

this is logic that is very hard to argue with

 

[StreetUnit]

Since youre assuming the end user doesnt know anything about tuning. All the piggybacks people are using have support that are all premapped, unichip, mpi, splitsecond (DSM) afc. Even the stand alones have a growing map library. We have complete how-tos on the wiring and schematics for each system or something even easier the plug and play of the Unichip. Retuning does not cost money unless its the Unichip. Even then the Unichip is tuned well enough to support bolt on mods such as intake, exhuast, and fmic without need a retune. It's not wasting money when you improve you gas mileage, reduce your risk of blowing your motor, and have a mod that grows with your other mods. It smoothes out the power delivery from the choppy stock ecu. It's the only mod that makes a night and day difference on the entire power band, even on a stock car.

In this guy's case he has $1500 to spend enough to buy an ems/piggyback and few other bolt ons. The MSP's major problem is the midrange power delivery hesistation. Another is the flimsy motor mounts which cause poor shifting and wheel hop that eventually lead to LSD failure.

Yes, he can do the bolt ons exhaust, fmic, intake first. It'll make the already piss rich air/fuel even richer and waste gas. Running piss rich isn't good for a engine either, especially how the stock ecu dips in to the 9s in afrs. Being too rich can cause detonation also. You will be constantly changing your fouled spark plugs and flooding your cylinders with excessive fuel. So what do you consider a waste of money now?

You want cost per hp ratio right?
240HP @ 12 PSI to the wheels on a dynojet with just these mods. Injen CAI, 3 inch muffler shop special exhaust, Alum Hardpipes with HKS SSQV Bov, Greddy EBC, front motor mount, Irdium Plugs, and MPI Tuner.

I think we are on the same page, sort of. I just said "We all know there are big gains in timing and fuel control." Which you state also but it seems like you think I disagree with you. The PCM is awful. End of story!

Now most people have no idea how to tune a/f ratios. Most MSP owners are a younger crowd with no turbo experience. If they try to do it themselves, which seems like what you are recommending, they run the risk of popping their motors if they make a mistake. I am not going to recommend that unless they have experience. Most guys do not want to do it themselves, they want a shop to for them, right the first time.

And when I say waste money, I am refering to dyno time and tuning if the user doesn't tune themselves after changing bolt ons. Not really wasting money because the will get some gains. If they do it themselves, management should be replaced ASAP along with the motor mounts.

We are on the same page and I am not arguing against what you are saying.

 

[StreetUnit]

this is logic that is very hard to argue with

No arguing in this thread.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

No arguing in this thread.

yeah, shouldn't be arguing anywhere on this forum but we all know how that goes (cheers)

 

[genius]

Where did you get that setup!!???

LMAO!!!!!!

Uhhh... I made it from scratch. Ya, I melted the stainless steel in my melting pot and then welded the pipes together myself!

Nah.. these are the pipes that I bought with the Street Unit SMIC. And they are working quite well!

 

[goku4658]

You want cost per hp ratio right?
240HP @ 12 PSI to the wheels on a dynojet with just these mods. Injen CAI, 3 inch muffler shop special exhaust, Alum Hardpipes with HKS SSQV Bov, Greddy EBC, front motor mount, Irdium Plugs, and MPI Tuner.

You running the extra injectors with that setup? Is lack of fuel a problem for you at 12psi?