JosueP5's '03 Protege5 Build Thread.
- Thread starter Josue6WGN
- Start date
03zoomzoom
Member
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- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
zoom zoom boom!!!!
zoom zoom boom!!!!
03zoomzoom
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
Nah, you're alright. These cars are just quirky. Try running a good fuel cleaner thru the car. That always seems to help me. Double check all your vacuum hoses and tighten your intake clamps.
Like I said in text man. These cars can be finicky with the CEL. Things have to be just right. I'll keep talking to you thru text.
What's next, because I did all that already...lol
03zoomzoom
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
Well, what I would try next is remove the upstream O2 sensor (closest to the engine) and clean it. I've used carb cleaner or an circuit board cleaner.
I've always heard/read that you should never clean an O2 sensor... The chemicals will destroy the sensitive sensor.
I don't get it though, the motor and header are from my car and I haven't had those problems. So I don't think it's the O2 sensor. Maybe it's just bad gas or something. I'd fill her up with 93 and run some fuel injector cleaner (since it's his fuel rail). Maybe they are dirty or something.
But don't get down too much about the Pfizzle, Josh. We'll get it sorted out, no worries.
I don't get it though, the motor and header are from my car and I haven't had those problems. So I don't think it's the O2 sensor. Maybe it's just bad gas or something. I'd fill her up with 93 and run some fuel injector cleaner (since it's his fuel rail). Maybe they are dirty or something.
But don't get down too much about the Pfizzle, Josh. We'll get it sorted out, no worries.
CheeseHelmet
Member
I'm betting on a vac leak, or a _really_ bad exhaust leak before the upstream O2 sensor.
CheeseHelmet
Member
Perhaps you can try using a boost leak tester to check for leaks, they look easy enough to build: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Build-Thread&p=5681543&viewfull=1#post5681543
Just hook it up to the throttle body and listen for leaks.
Just hook it up to the throttle body and listen for leaks.
Before the upstream sensor, so, at the exhuast manifold flange?
Evan and I made a startling revalation earlier. The big vacuum line that goes from the brake booster to the back of the intake manifold, was tapped into by a vacuum block on the old setup. We just used a regular piece of hose from Auto Zone to make a new line. I was looking at it today, and while I made sure to use enough so that it wouldn't kink, it looks like there's a kink forming where it comes out of the booster. It's not TOTALLY pinched off and restricting flow, but I have to believe that it's supressing it quite a bit. Also, Evan checked the manual, and there's supposed to be a check valve in that line, something I definitely DON'T have, so that's another possible culprit.
In other good news......passed E-Check! haha I disconnected my battery at lunch, so the ECU would hopefully be OK by the time I got tested after work, but there still wasn't enough memory in there for them to just plug in and test. They had to put it on the rollers and just check the emissions, so I passed that way. Kicked myself in the ass though, because I was watching how many miles I had on the 1 and only tank of gas I've put in it so I could check my MPG. But, low and behold, all that went to 0 after I disconnected the battery. LOL It had to be around 290 though, so I got around 25 MPG...not too shabby.
Evan and I made a startling revalation earlier. The big vacuum line that goes from the brake booster to the back of the intake manifold, was tapped into by a vacuum block on the old setup. We just used a regular piece of hose from Auto Zone to make a new line. I was looking at it today, and while I made sure to use enough so that it wouldn't kink, it looks like there's a kink forming where it comes out of the booster. It's not TOTALLY pinched off and restricting flow, but I have to believe that it's supressing it quite a bit. Also, Evan checked the manual, and there's supposed to be a check valve in that line, something I definitely DON'T have, so that's another possible culprit.
In other good news......passed E-Check! haha I disconnected my battery at lunch, so the ECU would hopefully be OK by the time I got tested after work, but there still wasn't enough memory in there for them to just plug in and test. They had to put it on the rollers and just check the emissions, so I passed that way. Kicked myself in the ass though, because I was watching how many miles I had on the 1 and only tank of gas I've put in it so I could check my MPG. But, low and behold, all that went to 0 after I disconnected the battery. LOL It had to be around 290 though, so I got around 25 MPG...not too shabby.
PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Unless you were really flogging it you've got a bit of a problem with that kind of mileage. Mine was that bad when my (only one, lol) O2 sensor had the wires chewed by rodents and was totally disconnected. I was getting a CEL, too, and it was running really rich in open loop mode.
CheeseHelmet
Member
Yea, you'd have to have a big exhaust leak at the flange or have a cracked manifold. I think you'd notice that...
There's supposed to be a check valve on that line but I don't see how that would make you run lean. The only problem you'll run into is that you'll have less "boost" available when you apply the brakes after keeping the throttle open.
Great news about the e-check, that means you have a year to figure out this P0171 thing, right?
There's supposed to be a check valve on that line but I don't see how that would make you run lean. The only problem you'll run into is that you'll have less "boost" available when you apply the brakes after keeping the throttle open.
Great news about the e-check, that means you have a year to figure out this P0171 thing, right?
I didn't think 25 MPG (80% city/20% highway) was horrible? I've read plenty of other people in that range. And again, I wasn't exactly easy on it. I wasn't redlining every shift or anything, but I wasn't shifting at 2500 and braking 1000ft before the stoplight.
Yea, you'd have to have a big exhaust leak at the flange or have a cracked manifold. I think you'd notice that...
There's supposed to be a check valve on that line but I don't see how that would make you run lean. The only problem you'll run into is that you'll have less "boost" available when you apply the brakes after keeping the throttle open.
Great news about the e-check, that means you have a year to figure out this P0171 thing, right?
Is insufficient vacuum the same as having a vacuum leak? Or, will the problem with this line only affect the brake booster, and not necessarily the intake side of the equation? It's not like the intake is pulling vacuum from the booster or anything, it's the opposite.
And yea, one whole year! hahaha I'll sell the car if it takes that long though!
CheeseHelmet
Member
Depends what you mean by "insufficient vacuum". When you open the throttle all the way the pressure in the intake manifold isn't that much lower than atmospheric pressure. In that case the check valve prevents the brake booster from sucking in any air. Maximum (negative) pressure is reached in the intake manifold when the throttle is closed. In that case air is pulled from the brake booster thus creating a vacuum. The check valve maintains that vacuum.
A vacuum leak occurs when unthrottled air enters the intake manifold which reduces the maximum negative pressure that can be achieved. This makes the car run lean and reduces the effectiveness of the brake booster (if it's a bad enough leak).
So "insufficient vacuum" at idle would be a good sign that you have a vacuum leak. If you already knew that please ignore this set of paragraphs
That's right, it shouldn't affect the intake. Unless there's a leak in the booster itself, but can that even happen?
R1600Turbo
Member
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- Car-less...for now
Nice project!
Newbie here just signed up to ask a quick question, but hopefully will stick around for a while as I'm looking at purchasing a P5 when I get back from my UK trip in a few weeks. Anyway, the reason I'm posting is to ask what wheels are on the car? I've been looking at wheels that retain the factory size but still look good and those have caught my eye.
Thanks!
Newbie here just signed up to ask a quick question, but hopefully will stick around for a while as I'm looking at purchasing a P5 when I get back from my UK trip in a few weeks. Anyway, the reason I'm posting is to ask what wheels are on the car? I've been looking at wheels that retain the factory size but still look good and those have caught my eye.
Thanks!
03zoomzoom
Member
- :
- 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring
25 mpg isn't bad. The lowest I've ever gotten was 23 mpg and that was the dead of winter when I'd let the car warm up while I was cleaning off the ice/snow. Normally I'm around 30-32 and 36 or so on a trip. The best I've ever seen was 41 mpg on my way to NYC about 6 years and 70k miles ago. Didn't you leave that boost/vacuum gauge on the car? What's it reading at idle/driving/WOT?
Depends what you mean by "insufficient vacuum". When you open the throttle all the way the pressure in the intake manifold isn't that much lower than atmospheric pressure. In that case the check valve prevents the brake booster from sucking in any air. Maximum (negative) pressure is reached in the intake manifold when the throttle is closed. In that case air is pulled from the brake booster thus creating a vacuum. The check valve maintains that vacuum.
A vacuum leak occurs when unthrottled air enters the intake manifold which reduces the maximum negative pressure that can be achieved. This makes the car run lean and reduces the effectiveness of the brake booster (if it's a bad enough leak).
So "insufficient vacuum" at idle would be a good sign that you have a vacuum leak. If you already knew that please ignore this set of paragraphs
That's right, it shouldn't affect the intake. Unless there's a leak in the booster itself, but can that even happen?
No, I didn't know any of that....and I had to read it 3 times for it to sink in. lol
I doubt the booster is bad, but I guess stranger things have happened? Evan has his hose/valve still, so we're going to put it on this Sunday. Also going to recheck the manifold bolts, and throttle body as well.
I was thinking about throwing a fuel filter in there for s***'s and giggle's, but Auto Zone said it was part of the fuel pump, and that was $135.
Well, as you can see, I guess they can be tempermental. LOL I'm loving the car so far though, it's all that I wanted and more!
I'm not 100% on the rim brand. The guy never told me much about the mods. There are some markings on them that say "A-Tech MONOBLOCK" and a bunch of numbers that are probably the bolt patterns the rims fit, as well as "16x7". After a quick google search, A-Tech MONOBLOCK seems to be the brand/model, but I don't think they're available anymore.
No, boost gauge is in Cali now. lol
That boost leak tester Cheese posted looks like it might be worth a shot, since a vacuum leak is thought to be the source right now.
