JL Audio e1800D vs JL Audio 500/1

[1sty]

where?

Any authorized dealer that is not trying to sky you.
That is the normal price at High-Fi buys, Tweeter, and Sound advice.

 

[1sty]

Looks like the 500/1 is a better amp. The only thing that I'm worried about is that I will not be able to drive two 12" enough to reproduce a loud, clear and deep bass. What do you guys thing? Will the 500/1 be enough to cause some serious damage? (band)

I witnessed 2 12W3s and a 500/1 shake a garage door off its hinge.
That was a very common setup for us. The 500/1 produces over 700 watts rms at 3 ohms to a true reactive load like a speaker. The nice thing is that the 500/1 can essentialy chase the sub around its impedance curve so as the sub plays and changes its resistance, the JL will continue to power it the more consistanly then damn near any other amp.

 

[Guinnessman]

I witnessed 2 12W3s and a 500/1 shake a garage door off its hinge.
That was a very common setup for us. The 500/1 produces over 700 watts rms at 3 ohms to a true reactive load like a speaker. The nice thing is that the 500/1 can essentialy chase the sub around its impedance curve so as the sub plays and changes its resistance, the JL will continue to power it the more consistanly then damn near any other amp.

That sounds pretty good. One more question thought: While doing my research I found out that the e1800D has a high level input. Would this be a better set up when using the stock HU?

1sty, thanks for your input!

 

[tsunami]

just get a loc and save the headache if thats your biggest worry, the 500/1 is a better all around amp the the 1800d (went through this a little while ago myself)

 

[Guinnessman]

Yeah, I even have a loc already...well after reading this one final piece of advise I decided to go with the 500/ and just finished submitting the order. I really appreciate everyones input, you guys have helped me pick out the right amp. I will keep you posted as to how it sounds once my system is completed.

Tsunami, so you picked the 500/1 as well? How does it sound? What are you running of off it?

 

[baconbitz]

A good friend of mine has a 500/1 pushing two 12" JL W1's (I believe thats right). Anyway it sounds really good. In all seriousness pair the 500/1 with a 12 W6v2 and you won't need a 2nd sub.

 

[Guinnessman]

It is that good huh? My friend had a JL audio set up. I'm not sure what exacly he had but the sound was out of this world...

 

[1sty]

You do not need a LOC with the 500/1 or even the e1800 for that matter. you can solder RCAs on to the speaker wires and just use the RCA inputs to the 500/1. Its high/low adjustment is ment for just that purpose.

 

[Guinnessman]

You do not need a LOC with the 500/1 or even the e1800 for that matter. you can solder RCAs on to the speaker wires and just use the RCA inputs to the 500/1. Its high/low adjustment is ment for just that purpose.

I didn't know that. I will use a reversed harness to avoid cutting the wires and will run speaker wire back to the trunk. I wish the amp had an easier way to connect to high input wire. Even the e1800 used the plug in type. I have never used those before. I will figure it out.

(p5red)

 

[got wake?]

I witnessed 2 12W3s and a 500/1 shake a garage door off its hinge.
That was a very common setup for us. The 500/1 produces over 700 watts rms at 3 ohms to a true reactive load like a speaker. The nice thing is that the 500/1 can essentialy chase the sub around its impedance curve so as the sub plays and changes its resistance, the JL will continue to power it the more consistanly then damn near any other amp.

sorry, but nope. it takes a reading when the amp first kicks on, then the rails are set for that impedance. it does not constantly adjust for the impedance curve. that would really screw up the sound if it did.

here's a little info on the RIPS from manville smith:

Bruce Macmillan was the lead engineer at PPI in the late eighties/early 90's. He designed all the "Art" series amps as well as the 2350DM. The 2350DM had simpler version of the RIPS system with two "gears" so it could be optimized for 2 ohm or 4 ohm per channel operation.

Fast forward to 1999... Bruce was hired by JL Audio to design the JL Audio amplifiers. He took the 2350DM's power supply concept to a higher level with three "gears" of optimization (the 1000/1 actually has four). So, in essence, the PPI2350DM and the JL "slash" amps came from the same brain.

JL Audio does not have a patent on the RIPS system (it had been done before, so you can't patent it). The patented technologies in the slash amps (and the e-series) have to do with the output sections, not the power supplies.

I'm not sure exactly what is going on in the PG products, but it appears to be a different approach towards the same basic goal.

Best regards,

Manville Smith
JL Audio, Inc.

Class H (rail switching type) amplifiers switch rail voltages dynamically in reaction to the input signal's level.

RIPS switches to an appropriate rail voltage for the connected load (based on an output current measurement) and stays there.

Best regards,

Manville Smith
JL Audio, Inc.

it is not a truly reactive amp. the 500/1 has dedicated 4, 3, and 1.5-2 ohm "gears". the 1000/1 has a dedicated 1.5 gear as well as a 2 ohm gear, since it was designed to compliment a pair of w7's perfectly. the RIPS is actually a great idea in that it increases the rail voltage into high impedance loads, so the current is very linear across the entire impedance range.

 

[1sty]

That sounds pretty good. One more question thought: While doing my research I found out that the e1800D has a high level input. Would this be a better set up when using the stock HU?

1sty, thanks for your input!

JL has a good quality high input circuit. It can be used instead of a LOC. However, I would not chose it over a 500/1 for that. The 500/1 is just as good with an RCA soldered to your speaker wires its just less convienient.

 

[Chiguy_2002]

I agree, with one JL 12, you will probably get very good sound. I would say try listening to one 12 as opposed to two, and see what you think. That way you can focus on getting one really good 12. Takes up less space also.

It is that good huh? My friend had a JL audio set up. I'm not sure what exacly he had but the sound was out of this world...

 

[FoxPro5]

I'll drink to that (cheers).

If the 500/1 and e1200d are the same price I would pick the 500/1 hands down. It is a solid amp and will put out the rated power at any impedence and any voltage.

How much is the 500/1? $600-700? For $526 you can get a DLS Ultimate A6 (1x500@4ohms, 1x1200@1ohm).

Just keep in mind that with JL Audio, not only are you paying for the quality, you are also paying for the brand name. DLS has the quality but without the household brand name.

Or you could buy my A3 and it will throw down over 1K at 1 ohm (shocked) PM for price!!!

 

[Guinnessman]

sorry, but nope. it takes a reading when the amp first kicks on, then the rails are set for that impedance. it does not constantly adjust for the impedance curve. that would really screw up the sound if it did.

here's a little info on the RIPS from manville smith:







it is not a truly reactive amp. the 500/1 has dedicated 4, 3, and 1.5-2 ohm "gears". the 1000/1 has a dedicated 1.5 gear as well as a 2 ohm gear, since it was designed to compliment a pair of w7's perfectly. the RIPS is actually a great idea in that it increases the rail voltage into high impedance loads, so the current is very linear across the entire impedance range.

Got Wake, you know way to much about this s***. You need to get a girlfrield man... no, I'm kidding. Seriously thought, this is some good info. My next step is to save up some money and upgrade my subs...so you're saying that two JL's W7's would sound best? As you know I went with the 500/1 instead of e1800D, so this would be the weapon of choice for the new woofers.

 

[Iamgoodyy]

Any authorized dealer that is not trying to sky you.
That is the normal price at High-Fi buys, Tweeter, and Sound advice.

Every single Tweeter in the DFW Metroplex has been quoting $849 for the JL Audio 500/5. That's the only reason why I haven't purchased one myself.

 

[got wake?]

Got Wake, you know way to much about this s***. You need to get a girlfrield man... no, I'm kidding. Seriously thought, this is some good info. My next step is to save up some money and upgrade my subs...so you're saying that two JL's W7's would sound best? As you know I went with the 500/1 instead of e1800D, so this would be the weapon of choice for the new woofers.

lol, i've got a girlfriend that puts up with more than any one person should have to. i work 10-12 hours a day and spend at least an hour each night online, ignoring her(attn) and craig, this new one is as well endowed as the last one(boobs)


the 500/1 is a great amp. i still think it is a bit overpriced, but that is besides the point. regardless of price, it is still a solid amp that puts out over its rated power. the 500/1 is not powerful enough to push a pair of w7's very well. a pair of w3's would be a better choice. or a single w7, depending on the rest of your system.

 

[Guinnessman]

Every single Tweeter in the DFW Metroplex has been quoting $849 for the JL Audio 500/5. That's the only reason why I haven't purchased one myself.

Have you tried buying online? You could get one for under $500 brand new. Some websites offer to match hte manufacturers warranty. Shop around!

 

[got wake?]

Have you tried buying online? You could get one for under $500 brand new. Some websites offer to match hte manufacturers warranty. Shop around!

be wary of buying JL online. they go after online sales and will buy their products online just to trace the serial numbers and shut down their source of products, so the online store warranty won't be worth a damn if they can't replace the product. here's another tid bit from manville:

By the way, JL amps purchased on the net are more prone to failure because many unscrupulous net dealers disassemble the amplifiers to remove serial numbers and end up not properly reseating the MOSFET's to the heat sink or end up damaging the legs. We see it all the time.

Hopefully, the replacement amplifier will solve the problem here.

If not, give our tech support guys a call at 888-JLAUDIO.

Best regards,

Manville Smith
JL Audio, Inc.

 

[Guinnessman]

be wary of buying JL online. they go after online sales and will buy their products online just to trace the serial numbers and shut down their source of products, so the online store warranty won't be worth a damn if they can't replace the product. here's another tid bit from manville:

I agree, but I also think that if you are careful enough you will find many great deals. I check the ratings, return policy, warranty information, and professional affiliations to determine whether or not the online store is reputable. Stores such us millionbuy.com are associated with Yahoo.com and have a comprehensive return policy along with satisfactory ratings from thousands of people. Finally, I always use my best credit card that comes with awesome online fraud protection. They will help you get the money back if you run into trouble.

 

[Thug541]

Hey guys, I was in this situation a while back too. I got the e1800 actually. Hits my two Kappa Perfects pretty hard. Now, my problem is, one of my kappa's have blown I believe, and i was debating if I should switch to a single JL sub or just buy another kappa? Does anyone have any advice, with the amp I have, what would hit harder...two Kappa's or a JL sub? ....sorry for the thread jack.