JL Audio e1800D vs JL Audio 500/1

[Breeegz]

I agree, but I also think that if you are careful enough you will find many great deals. I check the ratings, return policy, warranty information, and professional affiliations to determine whether or not the online store is reputable. Stores such us millionbuy.com are associated with Yahoo.com and have a comprehensive return policy along with satisfactory ratings from thousands of people. Finally, I always use my best credit card that comes with awesome online fraud protection. They will help you get the money back if you run into trouble.

You may be able to find deals online for JL audio with your methods, however the issue is not that you will get you money took and get no amp, the real issue is that JL audio does not sanction online sales of its products. That being said, the people selling you the products probably know that JL doesn't allow online sales and that JL will not honor it's manufacturer's warranty. If they open the cases (as was mentioned before) to remove the S/N the merchandise might not work as well as unopened merchandise.

Things may have changed since that last I checked

 

[chuyler1]

Or you could buy my A3 and it will throw down over 1K at 1 ohm (shocked) PM for price!!!

How about an A3 for $415 shipped!

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3729

 

[got wake?]

Hey guys, I was in this situation a while back too. I got the e1800 actually. Hits my two Kappa Perfects pretty hard. Now, my problem is, one of my kappa's have blown I believe, and i was debating if I should switch to a single JL sub or just buy another kappa? Does anyone have any advice, with the amp I have, what would hit harder...two Kappa's or a JL sub? ....sorry for the thread jack.

if you are wanting a ton more bass, get a single 12w7 or 13w7.

 

[Guinnessman]

JL has a good quality high input circuit. It can be used instead of a LOC. However, I would not chose it over a 500/1 for that. The 500/1 is just as good with an RCA soldered to your speaker wires its just less convienient.

That sounds good, I would love to do away with the LOC, but how the hell am I supposed to connect the regular spearker wire to RCA? isnt' that a little bit complicated?

 

[Breeegz]

an RCA is just a coaxial wire... which means one center pin and the shielding.

speaker wire is a positive and a negative....

positive on the pin & neg on the shielding with a good solder.

 

[Guinnessman]

an RCA is just a coaxial wire... which means one center pin and the shielding.

speaker wire is a positive and a negative....

positive on the pin & neg on the shielding with a good solder.

Like I said this will be a little bit complicated. I'll give it a try thought. I know there are professional adopters out there, but I'm not finding any online and don't think I'll find one in a local store. Any suggestions?

 

[got wake?]

if you want nicer ones:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=185-202
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-470

or you can search through and find some basic ones:
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?DID=7&WebPage_ID=3&Start=1&ObjectGroup_ID=125&sm=1&so=2

 

[Guinnessman]

if you want nicer ones:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=185-202
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-470

or you can search through and find some basic ones:
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?DID=7&WebPage_ID=3&Start=1&ObjectGroup_ID=125&sm=1&so=2

Wow, those look great. Is it hard to solder the spearker wire to them? Any tips?

PS: You guys rock with all the help!

 

[got wake?]

if you have basic soldering skills, it should be easy. i would recomend soldering the terminals to a pretty long piece of speaker wire, longer than you think you need, then connect the other end to the speaker wire in the car.

 

[Guinnessman]

if you have basic soldering skills, it should be easy. i would recomend soldering the terminals to a pretty long piece of speaker wire, longer than you think you need, then connect the other end to the speaker wire in the car.

I'll do it than. Let me get this right thought. I will need two of the RCA connectors, one for right and left channel. Than, I'll need to connect positive to the pin and the negative to the shielding. Should I do the rear right +, rear right -, rear left + and rear left-? Hopefully I'll be able to figure this out! (shocked)

One more question, what size wire should I use? 12 14 maybe 16 g. Should I use twisted type or regular???

 

[got wake?]

you've got it right. and 16 gauge would be fine. any type of wire would work fine.

 

[Guinnessman]

you've got it right. and 16 gauge would be fine. any type of wire would work fine.

Got Wake, thanks for your help. I'm about to order all the needed supplies. I'll keep everyone posted on how the system turns out!

 

[got wake?]

sounds great. good luck with it.

 

[Guinnessman]

sounds great. good luck with it.

The JL Audio 500/1 is installed, all wiring completed, the system put together and I'm deaf...picture perfect (cool) The subs hit hard and the level control is not even half way up, and the initial gain is only at +3db (JL's recommendation) I'm blown away guys (flame2)

You were all right about this amp! Thanks for the invaluable advice!

Also, the custom made RCA jacks were easy to put together, everything looks professionally done and no loss of signal or LOC used. Sweet!

The amp is amazing!!!! I love just how many options I have to configure my system. Here is a question though, what would be the best way to wire my subs? The subs are a temporary solution until I can dish out some cash on JL subs. They are Single cone subs...any ideas?
(p5red)

 

[got wake?]

glad you got it all working.