J&S Safeguard Install?

Signature Sound said:
Good to hear you got it figured out!

I want to figure out a way to data log the output voltage of the J&S into the Haltech.
Click to expand...

if you get it figured out post it up. I have a J&S but have not installed it yet. I would like to do the same with my megasquirt and have that pull the timing so there is less wiring for the J&S.

basically i just want the the J&S hooked up to power and the knock sensor and have it output a signal to the MS whenever it detects knock. the knock control in the MS already has threshold settings.
 
I made a short video showing the bargraph signal. It's the top trace on my scope. The bottom trace is the knock sensor signal:

[video]http://picasaweb.google.com/JohnPizzuto/JSVampireInstallation#5389069501584814018[/video]

You can log that signal. It's 0 to 1.3v in ten increments. The signal changes as each cylinder fires, reflecting the amount of knock retard in each cylinder.

You will need a 3.5mm STEREO adapter plug, available from Radio Shack. The "Tip" has 12v to power the gauge, so ignore that. The knock/retard signal is on the terminal defined as "Ring", "Sleeve" is ground.

PStereo.jpg
 
Finally moved my knock sensor to the back of the block yesterday away from all the heat. Pain in the ass getting the IM bracket off since it was put on with an air ratchet while the motor was out of the car. Since I was only using 2 bolts in the 4 hole bracket I just cut off the leg at the bottom of the bracket to access the hole for the sensor.

And now my gauge and led (extended from the unit to show if its on) won't come on?? I see a dim flicker on the unit at the map limiter led when the key is turned on but thats it. I'm about to pull out the unit and see if there is a frayed wire or hopefully something obvious!!!!
 
John at J&S said:
I made a short video showing the bargraph signal. It's the top trace on my scope. The bottom trace is the knock sensor signal:

[video]http://picasaweb.google.com/JohnPizzuto/JSVampireInstallation#5389069501584814018[/video]

You can log that signal. It's 0 to 1.3v in ten increments. The signal changes as each cylinder fires, reflecting the amount of knock retard in each cylinder.

You will need a 3.5mm STEREO adapter plug, available from Radio Shack. The "Tip" has 12v to power the gauge, so ignore that. The knock/retard signal is on the terminal defined as "Ring", "Sleeve" is ground.

PStereo.jpg
Click to expand...

John, nice to see you around these boards again.

Thread jack: what brand/type scope is that on the clip measuring digital signal ?

I guess the new version is ready for MSP ?
 
The scope is a "Leader". I don't think they are made anymore. It has a 12v converter so I can plug it into the cigarette lighter when I go on a call.

Answer to your second question is si, senor.
 
I actually have the new unit, got it a while back, just haven't had time to install it. I'll let ya'll know how it goes. I got the knock sensor for a Dodge Neon, now I just have to find a pigtail and connector for it.
 
shane02pro5 said:
Finally moved my knock sensor to the back of the block yesterday away from all the heat. Pain in the ass getting the IM bracket off since it was put on with an air ratchet while the motor was out of the car. Since I was only using 2 bolts in the 4 hole bracket I just cut off the leg at the bottom of the bracket to access the hole for the sensor.

And now my gauge and led (extended from the unit to show if its on) won't come on?? I see a dim flicker on the unit at the map limiter led when the key is turned on but thats it. I'm about to pull out the unit and see if there is a frayed wire or hopefully something obvious!!!!
Click to expand...

I know this is an old post, but I am installing a new J&S unit, and my sensor won't work in the IM bracket hole. The bolt for it is bigger than the opening in the sensor. Did the bolt fit through your sensor, and what sensor are you running? Is it the standard Bosch sensor?
 
Yeah that bolt is too big to go through the sensor. There's 4 holes right there, two below the IM manifold bracket, and two for the bracket, and they are all to big to fit through th hole in the sensor. Keep in mind this is a newer unit, bought last year.
 
I have the newer unit called bosch and asked if they had a bigger sensor. They told me to have it professionally drilled out. And yes my sensor stilled worked and still currently does.
 
I think I may have came up with another solution. I can just get a step stud made that fits the hole in the block, and the sensor hole.
 
Just so everyone knows, the part number john linked to will not work with the Protege. The stud is too big to fit the 4 available holes in the back of the block. You will need a step stud in 8mm to 6mm. I have found them online, but am going to try to find one locally.
 
Joe:

The hole in the sensor is 8mm. The large end of the step stud is 10x1.25, the small end is 8x1.25.

The studs I used to supply were also 10x1.25 to 8x1.25.
 
I ordered the part number from that thread you linked, and when it got here it was too big. So now I dunno what to do. Is there another Toyota part that is 10mm to 8mm. I believe the one I ordered from that part number is 12mm to 8mm.
 
just out of curiosity has any one tried moving the stock knock sensor to a different part of the block and putting the j & s knock sensor in it's place. i get a little nervous putting the knock sensor so far away from the point of combustion.
 
Joe:

Sorry for the bum steer. I looked at the pic again and it does look like the fat end is bigger than 10mm. arg.

I've still got a few mounting bolts in stock, $15 each plus shipping.

I have a local specialty fastener place (Hilco) looking into it. They have some samples that are 10x1.25 to 8x.25, but they aren't long enough.
 
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