I've had it with headlights

kubus_MP5

Member
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'11 Ford Flex
In 20 months and 20K miles I've had the P5 I went through #7 and #8 low beam bulb today. The driver side decided to go, stopped at AutoZone, replaced in the parking lot, got in and the $&#^% passenger one goes out. Of course the P5 just had to make it even more difficult and decided that the little piece of %#@& plastic holding the $##@* spring has to break.
Brought it home, took the pass side apart, tried washer, bigger screw, nothing will hold the damn spring. So I taped the damn wire and I'm going solo for a while, looking like POS Hyundai.
So now what, I got to order a new headlight, make sure it's not the sedan one, drop the bumper to get the headlight in and out, and pray this one never breaks. Great!!! Anyone interested in '03 P5, Auto, 65K, new brakes and new Alt and A/C belts, will throw in timing belt kit, new in a box. Oh and one working headlight. Impreza's have nice lease offer.
Anyone has any suggestions? Will the HID (like DDM 35W 4300k HID kit for example) needs to have the metal clip to hold the bulb or does it provide some other way to keep it in place. Or do I still need to get a new headlight?
 
The DDM kits do need the spring, I'm afraid. Although, if you do get some HIDs with a lifetime warranty...
 
One of my clips got lost for some reason and I have an ddm kit.Black rubber cap hold's my hid bulb in just fine.You can play around alil with it like I did and get it to hold without the clip.
 
I did drive with the boot on and the light just pointed far right, wasn't holding it well at all. Then again with 25F outside, snow and wind I was just trying to get home in one piece. I think I figured out how to make a loop out of a wire to hold the clip tight and still use the old headlight. Still getting the low beam HID kit, for $30 it's like pair of new bulbs anyway.
I stopped at Mazda dealer this AM, they also sell Subaru's. I was talking with the service manager about my problem, and he said try changing the bulb in Impreza. Apparently you have to take the windshield fluid container completely out to get to the bulb... except theirs don't burn out as often.
 
The stock bulbs in my car lasted until I replaced them with Silverstars a few months ago. Then last night I turn my headlights on and the driver's side flickers and goes out. It's finally HID time.
 
Little update, finally got around to getting the passenger side fixed.
I fixed the clip using phone wire. needed something thin, wrapped it around new beefier screw couple times and it holds. To my amazement I got the clip hooked up on a first try. I had to look again to make sure it does hold. Did a little dance too. 0F wind up my ass was soo pleasant, but made my hands shrink from the cold so it actually made it easier to fit behind the washer fluid neck.
HIDs are on the way, and I'll change them out when the next bulb burns out.
 
Just got my P5 shipped out here to Oahu, been here a week when she decided to eat another headlight as a pupu hawaiian style. . .

I also use the sylvinia silverstars. (they have a yr/ warrantee, and i've switched them out multiple times for free at orielly's where i purchase them, just keep the reciept stapled to the packaging backing in the glove department).

Anyhow, I planned to switch mine to HID's when the 'next bulb burns out', and now my HID set sits back 'home' on a shelf in texas, while i've moved out here!

Eh...the RECON probably would be a pain in the ass here with HID's anyhow. . .

-jason
 
On the passenger side is there any trick to making the change easier? I had a hell of a time my self changing the low beam bulb the other day and thought that there must be an easier way.
 
Just got my P5 shipped out here to Oahu, been here a week when she decided to eat another headlight as a pupu hawaiian style. . .

I also use the sylvinia silverstars. (they have a yr/ warrantee, and i've switched them out multiple times for free at orielly's where i purchase them, just keep the reciept stapled to the packaging backing in the glove department).

Anyhow, I planned to switch mine to HID's when the 'next bulb burns out', and now my HID set sits back 'home' on a shelf in texas, while i've moved out here!

Eh...the RECON probably would be a pain in the ass here with HID's anyhow. . .

-jason

you can't get recon with HID's
but you can put them in after you get your recon...
HID's are illegal for street use if you car doesn't have projectors and wasn't equipped with them from the factory... but as long as they shine white and not any type of bluish color... the police are very lenient and won't ticket you for them

RECON is a pain in the ass period LOL...
hit me up if you want some tips to pass....
i got mine after three tries
 
you can't get recon with HID's
but you can put them in after you get your recon...
HID's are illegal for street use if you car doesn't have projectors and wasn't equipped with them from the factory... but as long as they shine white and not any type of bluish color... the police are very lenient and won't ticket you for them

RECON is a pain in the ass period LOL...
hit me up if you want some tips to pass....
i got mine after three tries

Geez I remember the days of recon...moved out of the state to solve the problem :P
 
I would make sure you aren't touching the bulbs when you install them because any oil on the bulb with shorten the life of it drastically. Also, I have two low beam bulb clips left over from my retrofit in perfect shape, PM me if anyone wants them.
 
If your P5 is going through a lot of low beam bulbs it's because the spring clip that holds them in has been deformed and is not holding them in place firmly. This allows the bulbs to vibrate on rough roads or when crossing something like RR tracks. Vibrating a bulb with a hot filament creates instant burnout. (If you are using Sylvania Silverstars, the problem is even worse because of their short lifespan).

The spring clip is easily deformed if you press down to hard when trying to release the clip. Easy to do because the clip is in an awkward location that makes it difficult to move them laterally off the hook. The clips can also be deformed when trying to unplug the wiring harness if you don't hold the bulb receptacle in place while pulling on the plug. But his is why burnouts seem to happen more often after replacing the OEM's.

To test to see if this is your problem, unplug the wiring harness and remove the dust boot, leave the bulb and spring clip in place. With the tip of your index finger lightly try to wiggle the bulb contacts from side-to side and up and down. If there is any movement at all, your clip is deformed.

To fix it you have to remove the clip and re-bend it so both sides of the clip evenly contact the back of the bulb receptacle when the end of the clip is still about 1/4" away from the hook. This is best done with two persons unless you are really good at working while looking in a mirror. A lady friend with small hands makes an excellent assistant. Make sure you have a good hold on the clip when you loosen the screw on the "hinge side" (you only have to loosen it, not take it all the way out, in order to slip the clip out). Otherwise it can fall into to pretty inaccessible places (personal experience).

This takes a little trial and error to get it right, but youll know when its right the instant you perform the wiggle test.

Whoever thought this retaining system was a good idea should have their head examined.
Whoever designs a bolt-on alternative will make some money.

If you want a longer lasting and brighter bulb try the H7 rallye+65 (Osram only):
65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours.Direct order link is http://store.candlepower.com/osraulhiouh7.html
 
dpriggins
That's exactly what i did while I had it out, re-bent/position the spring, and I made sure it doesn't move around once it is in the socket. Since the spring on my car is not sitting in the stock position anymore, I had to make sure the spring will hold in the same position, thus a little re-shaping was necessary.
I'm also think someone made these headlight as an afterthought with spare parts. The bulb has the adaptor which virtually makes the H7 into H4. Also thanks to the adaptor, the two positioning notches that H7 has are reduced to 1. This is where I think the issue is with the quick burnouts. If it had two notches, it would sit in the socket much better then with the one bottom notch, which makes it float around until the pressure from the clip is applied. So be default if the clip is loose, then bulb is loose too. The only savior to this setup in that rubber cup, but that slips off with vibration too, so it has to be pushed on almost on weekly basis.
I also think the weather is a factor, either cold or rain or both. All of my bulbs went in cold, snow or rain, and they never went in summer months.

What we should have is twist on 9005 or 9006, which would eliminate all the problems and would make changing it much easier.
 
I agree. If someone comes up with and adapter that would mount with the two screws that hold the spring clip, they could make a lot of money.
 
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