Is this common in AWR endlinks?

AzteCypher

black ops modifications..
:
2001 Mazda Protege LX
I've replaced the front passenger side twice because the piece that looks like an eye bolt bent like in the pictures below. My driver side just sheared off like it was twisted off. Initially I thought I was pre-loading it too much so I basically let the car sit on the ground and adjusted the end links all the way down. I did this on Sunday and now it's Thursday and my driver side endlink broke. By the way these are hooked up to Ksport coilovers. Anyone ever experience. I don't think I adjusted them too low but somehow they went through too much stress and sheared off. I'm not sure if I can use stock endlinks because I have these coilovers cranked almost all the way down plus if stress did this to these endlinks, I can only imagine what it will do to the stock ones. Anyone have any suggestions?
 

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Well, I bought from someone else on the forum so they're not new. I've ordered replacement rods and I'm going to tweak the my suspension a bit and see what happens. If they break again I'll go back to stock endlinks and see how they hold up.
 
I've replaced the front passenger side twice because the piece that looks like an eye bolt bent like in the pictures below. My driver side just sheared off like it was twisted off. Initially I thought I was pre-loading it too much so I basically let the car sit on the ground and adjusted the end links all the way down. I did this on Sunday and now it's Thursday and my driver side endlink broke. By the way these are hooked up to Ksport coilovers. Anyone ever experience. I don't think I adjusted them too low but somehow they went through too much stress and sheared off. I'm not sure if I can use stock endlinks because I have these coilovers cranked almost all the way down plus if stress did this to these endlinks, I can only imagine what it will do to the stock ones. Anyone have any suggestions?


It might be common if thats how you installed them on the car. The spherical bearing has to move and the way you have it in the picture, the bearing is not able to move which causes load on the rod end.
 
It might be common if thats how you installed them on the car. The spherical bearing has to move and the way you have it in the picture, the bearing is not able to move which causes load on the rod end.

If you mean the rubber bushing on the outside of then no. I just slapped that back together so that I wouldn't lose it. The picture below shows how I normally install it. Is this correct or am I still doing something wrong? Thank you for your input by the way.
 

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i had the same issue with the k-sports. It's because of how the endlink attaches to the tab. That tab's bracket has a tendency to slip. I know Velocifero has busted 2 stock ones, too.
 
My bracket slipped originally which caused the endlink to rip into my tire thereby causing a flat. I tightened everything up tweaked the bracket an endlink and thought everything was good. I broke my endlink 4 days later. The replacement rods should be here on Monday so I'm going to try again. Any other suggestions on endlinks if this breaks again?
 
Remember that on the front ones, the end-link has to turn a bit as the wheels turn left/right. Any binding and poof. Make sure there is enough travel in the spherical bearing
 
The threads on one of my front awr's wore out and slipped out. The front takes a beating and these are not meant for street and all the extra abuse. Just go back to stock front endlinks...in the rear, awr endlinks should have a longer life span.
 
You'd figure the thicker endlinks would last longer but not sure anymore. I'll find out after I install them tomorrow. I might even change out my Ksports.

Either I'm getting old or they're feeling a bit rough. That being the case I've been thinking of trying a different set of coilovers. I want the same adjustability but with a softer spring rate.
 
Okay I found out what I did wrong. When I adjusted the endlink last time I shortened them a good amount since the space between the mounting tab and the sway bar was not that great. What I hadn't thought of was that the sway bar was not sitting in it's neutral position so to speak. As I was driving around with this setting the sway bar was pulling down on the endlinks so it essentially tore them apart. So I redid them today and extended them so that the sway bar was sitting in neutral position. I drove it afterwards and it felt better than the first time. Mind you this is just my theory so I could be totally wrong and just talking out of my ass. I'll find out in the next couple of weeks or so. Thanks to everyone for their ideas and comments.
 
I'm experiencing the EXACT same issue as you. 100% no difference. and I'll bet pennies to dollars that its the top part of your endlink that is breaking each time.

I don't know what the grade of the threaded bolt that goes into the sleeve is but I'm starting to get the idea its a low grade bolt. As I broke the AWR endlink on the left side, and just today broke the one on the right hand side. Doing nothing other then normal driving. I haven't even had a chance to push them yet.

By the looks of the part that is sheered off (the inside of the bolt), it doesn't exactly look like its cast very well.

Bought in September. One broke in January, and now in April. 6 Months. Thats not very good quality.
 
Yup that's exactly what happened. The replacements have been good this last week so we'll see how well it goes.
 
You can try ordering some heim or ball joints and connecting rod from mcmastercarr and make your own. MUCH beefier than the awrs, and only cost ~$50 in materials. Plus, you can get the heavy duty ball joints with 60degrees of movement, so binding shouldn't be an issue. Heres a pic of the rear endlinks I made.
endlink1.jpg
 
you've got the wrong spacers. Back when the illuminas were released in 04 a lot of people were having the same issues. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of them at work or online.

I believe the fix was Miata spacer/collars. I'd contact AWR and ask about it.
 
damn, i'm just at the Mcmaster carr site and these bitches are expensive! lol
 
I've been having issues with the endlinks clicking when I turn the wheel. I run K-Sports too. I know something is wrong when I set them up. How do you know the sway bar is in the neutral position?
 
Well I compared it to a stock suspension setup and took some measurements and set it up that way. I'm thinking something got tweaked on my front passenger side before I tightened everything up but I'm not sure yet.
 
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