Interior Lighting

hmm...curious it cree's do look better, although my jdm's dont look quite as blue as yours does? maybe the white balance on your camera is off a bit?

can you take a pic of the cree ones, out of the housing but lit up? would like to see if the entire oval section lights up or if its just points of light inside the oval that do, thanks

Yes, it seems that my camera white balance and color is a bit off.
CREE shouldn't have green tint like the pic, but blue tint.
18-SMD have visible blue tint, but not this blue. Bluer than CREE for sure though.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention it, but the CREE seems have a built-in modulator. It will decrease it brightness after awhile to prevent heat damage.
When first started up, the dome section lights up completely, very brightly.
After awhile, it'll reduce the brightness so you can see the points of light from inside the dome.

Even though it's not as bright from first started up, it's still as bright as 18-SMD.
It's good enough for me ;)

Btw, if you want combination of CREE + SMD, I found this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/P13W-CREE-Q...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c692d15e&vxp=mtr
The CREE is Q5, definitely very bright. Don't know if it'll reduce the brightness after awhile though..

Wait.. the ebay CREE and v-leds CREE are different.
ebay is using XR-E Q5
v-leds is using XP-E, don't know the rating though, should be either R5/R4/Q5/Q4.
R is more efficient than Q, 4 or 5 is the Kelvin degree.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?270419-Commonly-Used-LED-Emitter-Index
And no, I'm not an expert, I just found this on the net =P
 
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CREE H11, CREE T10/W5W, and 68-SMD LED

Fog Lamps H11 68-SMD vs CREE LED.
Position Lamps T10/W5W CREE LED.

H11 68-SMD LED from: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/HID-Style-LED-Fog-Driving-Lamp-Light-Bulbs-p/led_fog_h11_sku52.htm
H11 CREE LED from: http://www.v-leds.com/6K-WHITE-11W-LED-DRLFOG-p9798089.html
T10/W5W CREE LED from: http://www.v-leds.com/6K-WHITE-CREE-LED-3W-p9796205-1-2.html

H11 68-SMD vs CREE,
creeh11vs68smdled.jpg


T10/W5W CREE,
creet10.jpg


Fog Lamps H11 CREE,
White color with slight blue tint, because of my lousy camera, the blue tint becomes green..
It's too bad that the projector dome is blocked by a "steel-blocking-bulb-thingy"..
I think it's removable, but maybe I must remove the whole bumper first before I can remove the fog lamp housing..
creeled0.jpg


Fog Lamps H11 68-SMD,
White color with very visible blue tint, again, my camera makes this picture bluer than in real life..
But it's definitely bluer than the CREE LED.
68smdled0.jpg


Fog Lamps H11 68-SMD and HID Xenon,
As you can see, the tint is very different than the 4300K HID.
Oh, btw, the position light is not on because I put the T10 LED the wrong way, haven't switched 180 degree yet..
68smdled1.jpg


Original Lights,
Yellowish color for the Fog Lamps and Position Lamps.
original0.jpg


CREE H11, T10/W5W and factory HID Xenon,
Blueish color for the Fog Lamps and Position Lamps.
I like blueish color better than yellowish color, even though both are different than the factory HID Xenon.
fullcree0.jpg


Original Lights,
original1c.jpg


CREE H11, T10/W5W, and factory HID Xenon,
fullcree1.jpg


CREE H11 and T10/W5W,
fullcree2.jpg
 
here's my bulbs, just unpacked them, soon as wife gets home this afternoon with the car they're going in, then get some pics once its dark

SL733858.jpg

Can you give us a breakdown of what all you ordered?

Also, did BadApple ever figure out the fuse situation with his rear cargo light?
 
Can you give us a breakdown of what all you ordered?

Also, did BadApple ever figure out the fuse situation with his rear cargo light?

i ended up returning some of those in that picture, i kept the 5 hp festoon for the front/rear overhead lights and the cargo light and the 2 vanity festoons

got wled-hp5 for the plate lights and hp15tac for the reverse lights

the drls i went with the jdmstore p13w's (i have the xenon setup, if you have halogen bulbs you shouldn't replace drls cause they are also your highbeams)
 
looking at all of your cars and seeing that HIDs look so much better made me want to order the DDM kit 6k H11, now as far as installing it will i have to disconnect the battery and hows the install easy/difficult?
 
the drls i went with the jdmstore p13w's (i have the xenon setup, if you have halogen bulbs you shouldn't replace drls cause they are also your highbeams)

Can one of you with LED drl replacement for halogen light confirm if this is true. Do you really loose the high beam function when DRL is replaced with LED?
 
Man those do look very bright. NICE!

I was able to install my new fog lights LED and also license plate bulb. Let me know what you guys think.

2012-04-24%252020.20.17.jpg



2012-04-24%252020.20.48.jpg

Looks awesome. How hard is it to swap out the fogs? Do you have to remove the bumper?
 
i have the non xenon gt. I want to get LED's for my DRL's. Just want someone to confirm that if i switch out my halogen DRL's to these LED's (http://store.ijdmtoy.com/9005-LED-Daytime-Running-Light-For-Lexus-IS-GS-SC-p/led_sku45_r4.htm) i will loose my high beam function right? And anybody that has these installed... are they bright enough and worth loosing the high beam function?????

p.s. i just switched out my halogen low beams and fogs to HID's so will i really even need high beam? i really hate the yellow drl color.
 
i have the non xenon gt. I want to get LED's for my DRL's. Just want someone to confirm that if i switch out my halogen DRL's to these LED's (http://store.ijdmtoy.com/9005-LED-Daytime-Running-Light-For-Lexus-IS-GS-SC-p/led_sku45_r4.htm) i will loose my high beam function right? And anybody that has these installed... are they bright enough and worth loosing the high beam function?????

p.s. i just switched out my halogen low beams and fogs to HID's so will i really even need high beam? i really hate the yellow drl color.


first, i dont believe you need that 'decoder kit' thats just wasted money

as iv'e stated in other threads and in this one as well i believe, it probably isn't a good idea to run leds in place of the highbeams on non tech drls.
it most likely runs at lower voltage than 12v to make the highbeams run as drls instead of highbeams.
running less than rated voltage on leds is not good for them, they would either not light up at all, or would act strangely and die long before they're normal useful life
unless you could find leds that will run under a voltage range that covers whatever the drl signal puts out, but chances are you aren't going to find automotive style direct replacement bulbs that will do that, most of them will be designed to run off of 12v
 
first, i dont believe you need that 'decoder kit' thats just wasted money

as iv'e stated in other threads and in this one as well i believe, it probably isn't a good idea to run leds in place of the highbeams on non tech drls.
It most likely runs at lower voltage than 12v to make the highbeams run as drls instead of highbeams.
Running less than rated voltage on leds is not good for them, they would either not light up at all, or would act strangely and die long before they're normal useful life
unless you could find leds that will run under a voltage range that covers whatever the drl signal puts out, but chances are you aren't going to find automotive style direct replacement bulbs that will do that, most of them will be designed to run off of 12v

thats what the decoder is for so it works. Without the decoder the led would not work. People have installed this kit on the (non-xenon) model and they haven't complained.
 
my understanding about those decoders was that so the car's computer wouldn't think there was a problem with the bulbs because of the different loads leds put on the circuit than standard filament bulbs and throw an error code

unless that decoder is a voltage regulator and step up transformer to output a constant 12v dc as well
 
my understanding about those decoders was that so the car's computer wouldn't think there was a problem with the bulbs because of the different loads leds put on the circuit than standard filament bulbs and throw an error code

unless that decoder is a voltage regulator and step up transformer to output a constant 12v dc as well

On some cars the decoders is to take away the error message. But on the CX-5 (non-xenon)... the led bulbs will not function or not function properly ( i.e. flickering etc.) without the decoder installed. I ordered these LED's and will install sometime this weekend if it comes. But i was looking for ANY TYPE OF BULB that would give me a white light instead of yellow and function HIGH BEAM. But to my understanding, there is no bulb like that for the CX-5
 
I just ordered these to replace my stock DRL bulbs. I have a GT w/out Tech, so I didn't want to have issues with the high beam functions. Has anyone used these bulbs before?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)


i also have the GT w/out Tech and i ordered these https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned). Let me know if yours work and are nice. I will let you know if the bulbs i ordered are any good. I also got these too http://store.ijdmtoy.com/9005-LED-Daytime-Running-Light-For-Lexus-IS-GS-SC-p/led_sku45_r4.htm because others users confirmed that it works as a DRL but said the high beam function does not work. So let me know how your bulbs are with some pics if they work.
 
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/

I've used JDM Toy when I had my IS250 and the interior LEDS were awesome. I've had both super bright white and Blue LED's. Toy still has not listed the CX-5 on their site but it's only a matter of time. I've never had a problem with these guys and they are super friendly and helpful.
 
Corksport offer a LED kit for interior lighting and the license plate light also.
Dont know if someone mention it before but it look's like a nice kit.
 
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