Intake Manifold Modifications.....

You can expect, easily, about 2500 after parts and labor for a good, aggressive head job (with cams). But I imagine it would be well worth it.
 
That seems higher than around here... but you also have cams on that.. so I don't know how much that is. Even at the import race shop (King Motorsports) that is near here the full head job with a flow bench is like 900 or something. The guy I'm doing mine with is doing a full port and polish matched out to the gaskets and matching the mating on the intake manifold. He is putting on as many angles as he can on the valves (limited by space for the cutters), back cutting the valves, doing the seats, chamfering galley oil ports, radiusing the exhaust valves etc... full deal and it will be about 950, but no flow bench... which is fine as that is relatively minimal in the end of this (little differnce between a well done job and a "perfect" job as far as power). Although it can become important if you are doing NA. Also, I am not oversizing any valves this time around, so flow benching is unecessary as you are not affecting velocity, and it is hard to actually hurt your flow throughput if your velocity is maintained/raised and you generate less restriction due to the better valve work.
 
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Oh, did you ever find out about increasing the quench area for me? =) I've got a potential head guy around here, too, so it's no problem if not. I figured the cams, plus the install to be right around $500 for custom ground. The prices are definitly on the high end of things, but that's through Paeco. Oddly enough, they were talking about only costing about $150-200 to increase the quench area, which is high, but still somewhat low for them. Wierd.

Oh, and on another note, after looking and getting measurements from a stock head, I'm just gonna be enlarging the exhaust valves, if at all.
 
I keep forgetting you are NA and things like you mention matter a lot more for you :) LOL...

I wanted to take the head in to talk about it with him directly... I forgot it when I took my block in, but I'll get my block tomorrow or Monday, so I'll take the head in then and ask him. Otherwise I think your source on that might be better. But I'll certainly check regardless!
 
hmm dyno #s would def be a good thing...I have to go to the dyno anyways to make sure the stealership did their job, so I'll have pre port #s then here in a few weeks when i find a manny I'll dyno again....im thinking that at stock boost you're looking at 10ish hp gain, hp gained from flow changes is exponential when used in conjunction with a turbo/sc application so I'm thinking at 10psi its prob around 20-25hp gain... at any rate I'll get dyno pre and after results for everyone if someone can find me a damn manifold....
 
DSM: Hmm... I might have another manifold available after I'm done with this one. If I do, I can port it up for you, if you can send me your old one once you swap it.

I should do this as a side job. =)
 
I have an exra manifold as well that I might be able to sell... I have no use for it... just is "around" :)
 
hehe nah i can do the porting no problem, thing is i want to keep my stock manny incase I have warranty problems, b/c mazda is gay like that....but if you want to port it and let me purchase it from you i'd have no problem with that...odds are im never goign to use my stocker again but just incase i'd like to have it around....turf if you've got an extra one I'd be interested in buying it....to keep this from getting off topic and becoming a price war whoever has a manifold they will sell pm me...
 
Boost is a measurement of backpressure in reality. You could lose boost by opening up yor system, but you will gain power regardless.
 
You lose boost partially because the cfm goes up and the amount coming out of the turbo is still the same... then because there is less backpressure your apparent boost is lower as the quantity of air was flowed in better. So you may lose 2 psi, but you are still flowing the same amount of air I believe.

I have to check on whether or not I'm allowed to part with the mani or not. So I'd put flat_black on your list first.. if things don't work out and you are still interested and I haven't said otherwise let me know! :) No bidding wars... I'll just concede for now!
 
Well, I'm not sure either, since I'd still need to get Bill's old manifold, so I'll confirm with him this weekend. =) But, I'll let you know, either way, DSM.

By the way, when am I gonna get my #6 pipe? ;)
 
I can't believe how much the junkyards want for them! It's like 200 for the upper and 150 for the lower... I'm surprised they split the manifold apart...
 
Kooldino said:
You can get a whole motor for a little more than that.
If your lucky... I ended up paying about 750 for my entire motor I think. That was block and head and manifold, no upper oil pan/MBSP, no flywheel or clutch assembly.
 
TurfBurn said:
The guy I'm doing mine with is doing a full port and polish matched out to the gaskets and matching the mating on the intake manifold. He is putting on as many angles as he can on the valves (limited by space for the cutters), back cutting the valves, doing the seats, chamfering galley oil ports, radiusing the exhaust valves etc... full deal and it will be about 950, but no flow bench... which is fine as that is relatively minimal in the end of this (little differnce between a well done job and a "perfect" job as far as power). Although it can become important if you are doing NA. Also, I am not oversizing any valves this time around, so flow benching is unecessary as you are not affecting velocity, and it is hard to actually hurt your flow throughput if your velocity is maintained/raised and you generate less restriction due to the better valve work.
Almost what I am doing to my head!!! (hi)
 
Not to completely threadjack but I wanted to hear your thoughts, Foucs, on why you decided to go with 8.5:1 pistons instead of 9:1's. I haven't done my pistons yet and I'm still hmming and haaing a bit about it... leaning toward the 9's though still at this point.
 
got a suggestion for those who are brave enough.

where the vics chamber is, use metal epoxy to block each runner off. then drill through the bottom of each new vics tube straight to the plenum. and there you have it. a true dual runner IM.

so who's game?
 
I'm not totally following on the benefit and the how? I was planning on just flatout removing my VICS. (I run a standalone that doesn't control it... so no point in it being there for me)
 
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