Installed HID Fogs...

[Nliiitend1]

I want to do this "fog light always on mod" (in my GT), but I'm not sure what is being done. To me I'm thinking about it as removing a fuse, and replacing it with a hard wire. Shouldn't there be a fuse put in the line so nothing burns up? Or am I being to cautious?

You're actually removing a relay, and hard wiring a relay point that otherwise would have situational current interruption.

You're being too cautious.

 

[GhostMercury]

thanks for the answer...makes sense now

 

[GhostMercury]

I'll have to do this then, I just need to get some wanabe HID bulbs until spring when I can get a HID Fog kit

 

[MM BOOST]

Well damn that sucks! so if I got 3k hid fog lights, they won't look yellow? See I love the yellow fog light look like on the IS300s. Is there anyway to capture this other than putting the yellow fog light covers on (I had these on before and was not a fan).

 

[RC08MS3]

I'll have to do this then, I just need to get some wanabe HID bulbs until spring when I can get a HID Fog kit

the price you can get an HID kit why spend the money for regular bulbs? got my 3000k for $63 bucks shipped, with lifetime warranty on em.

 

[RC08MS3]

They look more yellow if you take the metal tab from the inside out. Well thats what ive gather from the pics.

 

[Element]

I should take a pic of my HID bulbs as the gas inside the capsule is actually yellow. My foglights even before the overlays look yellow, and project yellow. I removed the capsule to get a wider beam, and added the overlays after.

 

[BrianFiebig]

I'll have to check the whole always on thing. I dont think it would be a bad thing. Picking up spades at Radio Shack on my way to work tonite, see what becomes of it. Will post answers in the next day or so.

 

[iredremix]

looks good man. i have the same exact setup but i used yellow tints and paint on top.

 

[MM BOOST]

They look more yellow if you take the metal tab from the inside out. Well thats what ive gather from the pics.

how would this make a fog light bulb look more yellow?

 

[BrianFiebig]

OK, got a real wire with spades on. Same effect, they are always on regardless. Got to thinking on the way home that with modification, the relay might work the way we want it to. The trick is figuring out what post on the relay does what. there are 2 posts that run Fore/Aft at the forward part, and 2 that run left/right on the rear part. The forward left/right post is obviously the one that the relay feeds power to to turn on the fogs. (We can call this post 4) The other 3 posts all have to feed power into the relay in order for it to flip power to post 4 and turn on the fogs. SO, it would seem to me that if the post that gets its signal from the master headlight switch (thus, only providing power to the relay when the headlight knob is fully in the on position) and then remove the post, and replace it with a wire or post that connects it to, say the foglight switch post, we would retain the turn off with the highbeams on feature, and the power to the fogs would be determined solely by the position of the fog switch. MEaning, they would immediatly turn off when you pulled the key, be turned on when the switch is moved to the on position, and still turn off when the highs are triggered. I COULD go out in the blinkin snow and play move a wire around while dicking with the light controls, but if someone already knows what post does what (and someone has to, if they figured out you can splice a wire from a hot point to that #4 hole and get the fogs to come on independantly), I would be willing to go get a spare relay and play frankenstien.
Alternatively, simply by running a wire from the fog switch hole to the fog power hole (#4 again...) you would get the same effect, but loose the off with the highbeams on feature. Ideas? Thoughts? Wiring diagrams?


EDIT: Sorry about the rambling and poor grammar/spelling. Just got home from work, and im tired, cold, cranky, and sober.

 

[Sport6]

Hmmm that would work, just how involved it would be to get it to work is the question. I will look in the shop manual to see if they have any info.

 

[BrianFiebig]

Involved wouldnt be too bad if you successfully identified the posts. MEasure the distance between the posts (Oh PLEASE DEAR LORD make them the 2 side by side posts on the front side of the relay) cut the offending relay down to that length (Dremel tool or tin snips?) and then fold it over. Solder it down and file the joint so its clean. Done. Or snap the pecker off and solder a wire in.

 

[Nliiitend1]

I've thought about modifying the relay, but never got around to trying it out...

Even if the necessary posts aren't right next to one another, it might not be too difficult to solder a little jumper into the relay.

 

[BrianFiebig]

correct. Of course, now that I have had some food and a few pints of beer and my mental processes are back to normal, I realize you wouldnt even need to hack off the offending post. Or solder it for that matter. A simple double loop splice would work just fine, as the offending post would be constantly powered by the fog switch post regardless of the signal it was getting from the hole. Advantage, you dont have to go buy another relay (which im sure will cost you your firstborne) and when it comes time for safety inspections, dealership visits, just pull the relay out, slide the wire off, replace, reverse when done. Take about 5 seconds to measure how much insulation you need to keep, strip off about 3 inches of insulation from each end of the wire, and twist on.

Migraines are wonderfully focusing arent they....

 

[BrianFiebig]

OK, relay modification is a non starter. Spent an hour frosting myself. The post that is parrallel to #4 is the Power in, a connection here produces the same effects as the standard method of wire bypass. The left hand of the other 2 posts does nothing that I can tell, must be the high beam cutoff post. The right hand is the stalk control, it responds the same as it would with the factory relay in. The only "correct" way to do this seems to be the surgery to the harness method.(deadhorse

 

[Nliiitend1]

Doh!

Well, it was worth a shot. Thanks for freezing a bit in the name of progress!

 

[dkswim]

one of the how to on the other forum has all that info and they run the triger wire back and into the sterring column

 

[dkswim]

hmmm cut off for the high beam... that is something i want to get around.

 

[speed3guy]

wow those look incredible! With every pic I see... makes me want HIDS more and more!