Independant Throttle Bodies (ITB's/IRTB's)

Yep, they're 40mm DCOE's... You can get a stripped pair (pair of pairs) of those for less than $500 new. And the 45/48's don't cost any/much more than the 40's, and are properly sized for the engine. =)
 
if only the owner of that car got online to my usual clubs i'd be able to ask more about the engine and the sort of ems/power it's producing
 
I heard bp's can gain up to 16whp or with just the ITB's right?...from what I remember the cars were already tuned and baselined with a standalone before the ITB additions...thats a pretty good chunk on top of whatever else...

I can't wait to see how this pans out...
 
well i found out the guy has just joined the australian forum i'm a very active member of. he is running the stock ecu at the moment and suprise suprise he's running lean at low rpm and pig rich at high rpm (me all over again). he's probably going to get an fpr like what i did to help rich up the low rpm and leave the high rpm alone (ie by not connecting the vacuum tube) and see how that goes.

they guy hasnt been on a dyno yet. and it's a 1.8L engine too. he's thinking of getting a microtech lt10s to get max benefit out of them along with cams, so he should do quite well if he revs the engine up to what the 1.8L can handle.
 
hey,

I think it would be dope for someone who didn't have to worry about any emissions controls or testing to install a set of Weber Carbs. I run them on my 2nf gen prelude and let me tell you... world of difference. Completely tunable, tons of torque, no messing around with fuel system management. The only problem would be workin around the ecu and still keeping all the other systems like abs and all that jazz.

check em out http://www.cardomain.com/ride/560833/3

Matt
 
That would be extremely easy to switch to carbs, actually. The same as switching to a standalone, except for keeping AC control, and no trimming of wires. Though a lot of drivability, fuel economy, and environmental adjustability would be on the line, or possibly just lost. Elevation changes, especially in my area of the country, would make carbs totally obnoxious, unfortunately. As well as where I used to live, since the temperature fluctuated so greatly between seasons.

Also, if anyone knows someone who can do a cheap one-off fabrication of a lower manifold for me, or a sandcasting of the same part, it'd be appreciated if that info could be passed along. Unfortunately, the people that were going to do it 'cheaply' for me ended up being $1000 (custom cast), because they were being jackasses. =P I can fabricate the thing by hand for cheap, but I'd rather have someone who has more time with a welder take care of welding a set of tubes to a set of flanges. This would be about 2-3" tall, or so.
 
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i was going to make my lower half mod with welding pipes (buying an awesome welder later this week so who knows, i might attempt the lower half of the IM again)
 
There is a Weber kit for the BP. A Miata guy was going to sell me the kit for $500. There's a local guy who specializes in Weber tuning, so I was considering it. $500 for Webers, or $4000 for IRTB's(IRTB's and stand-alone)...so it was temping.

But, I'm going to stick with the throttle bodies...they're just too cool to pass up.
 
Dont know if you guys had seen this. It's a repost from my local forum..

ITB kit for 2.0L FS Engines
AAI Motorsport a.k.a BuddyClub (USA)
introduced direct port injection individual throttle body kit for 1.8L and 2.0L FS series Ford/Mazda engines.
as seen on AAI International Racing team's Ford Tierra RS. (N/A 2.0L FSZE 240hp, FSDE 220hp)

kit includes:
- 4 individual throttle body intake manifold
- manifold gasket and all hardwares (bolts and nuts)
- racing spec fuel rail and 4X440cc. injectors
- TBP sensor adapter
- FRP Air box/surge tank
- full instructions

this kit will work with OEM ECU, after market fuel management recommended.
expected minimum 15 engine hp gains (10-12 whp gain) 5-7 lb/ft turque gain within 3500-5000 rpm
after market exhaust manifold (Header) recommended

Optional Stage 2 kit:
- Stage 1 kit without FRP Surge tank
- Four individual sponge air filters
- ECU harness adapter
- MAP/MAF sensor harness adapter
- Trust/Greddy E-Manage full Engine control unit
- Optimized engine fuel map data CD and base map

expected minimum 25-30 engine hp gains with proper fuel map tuning, the base map works with most applications and will provide 20+ hp gain minimum.

MSRP:
Stage 1 $1595/(1295 USD)
Stage 2 $2295/(1795 USD)

expected labor time: 10 hour for stage 1, 15 hour + for stage 2

Optional high compression pistons, head gaskets and High cams are also available

Stage 2 shown with metal mesh filter and high pressure fuel lines
P6030063.jpg


P6030105.jpg
 
Gen1GT said:
For FSP, a 1st gen is the way to go. If you were going GS or DS, I'd say go with the MP3 or Mazdaspeed. But the 1st Gen LX makes more power, is much lighter than a 3rd gen and still has a great chassis.

Also, there is a 1st Gen GT and a P5 both prepped for FSS here in Ontario, and the GT beats the P5 by minimum 2 seconds at any given race. Of course, because of all the 3rd gen guys here, people are going to argue this. But fact is, I've driven both. Not too many people have driven a 1st Gen. On the other hand, there's a guy with a 3rd Gen 1.6 sedan in H Stock(which can run R-Compounds here) who always beats the guy in the P5.

Oh I'd take my 1st gen over my p5 anyday. Just that the running costs are lower with the p5 and I have no money to mod my 91 pro. I think if I come into some money..I'd do a GTX AWD swap onto the 1st Gen with the tranny.
 
Oh damn!! I like!!!



yeloprofan said:
Dont know if you guys had seen this. It's a repost from my local forum..

ITB kit for 2.0L FS Engines
AAI Motorsport a.k.a BuddyClub (USA)
introduced direct port injection individual throttle body kit for 1.8L and 2.0L FS series Ford/Mazda engines.
as seen on AAI International Racing team's Ford Tierra RS. (N/A 2.0L FSZE 240hp, FSDE 220hp)

kit includes:
- 4 individual throttle body intake manifold
- manifold gasket and all hardwares (bolts and nuts)
- racing spec fuel rail and 4X440cc. injectors
- TBP sensor adapter
- FRP Air box/surge tank
- full instructions

this kit will work with OEM ECU, after market fuel management recommended.
expected minimum 15 engine hp gains (10-12 whp gain) 5-7 lb/ft turque gain within 3500-5000 rpm
after market exhaust manifold (Header) recommended

Optional Stage 2 kit:
- Stage 1 kit without FRP Surge tank
- Four individual sponge air filters
- ECU harness adapter
- MAP/MAF sensor harness adapter
- Trust/Greddy E-Manage full Engine control unit
- Optimized engine fuel map data CD and base map

expected minimum 25-30 engine hp gains with proper fuel map tuning, the base map works with most applications and will provide 20+ hp gain minimum.

MSRP:
Stage 1 $1595/(1295 USD)
Stage 2 $2295/(1795 USD)

expected labor time: 10 hour for stage 1, 15 hour + for stage 2

Optional high compression pistons, head gaskets and High cams are also available

Stage 2 shown with metal mesh filter and high pressure fuel lines
P6030063.jpg


P6030105.jpg
 
For the sound and looks alone...is reason enough to swap in ITBs

Is anyone in this community successfully running an ITB setup?
 
The AAI Motorsport kit looks like a really good deal. The only thing that concerns me is the statement that it will work with the stock ECU. Which stock ECU are they talking about? OBD-I or OBD-II? I'm thinking it's not going to work on the US spec ECUs.
 
my mouth literally dropped open, and stayed open for a good 60sec when i saw that.
 

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