I'll need to re-break-in my new engine, any suggestions?

Ok, that clears that up. Synthetic oil is fine after the break in period. Dino oil is suggested by most engine builders for the break in process. Some gaskets and seals can leak after a high number of miles have been put on the engine, which is why you do not want to switch oil type on a high miler. But regardless of what type of oil you use, leaks are more likely after a lot of miles have rolled by. All in all, I like the added protection of synthetic over the long haul, especially on forced induction applications.
 
nondual said:
The other thing is that it really seemed that my power dropped as time went on. Maybe it's due to the way I drove it, or it could have been the tranny working loose (parasitic power loss?), or the fact that it had the CEL light on for at least 5k of the 7k miles I put on the thing.
Probably had something to do with it.(glare)
 
Settling In a new engine

I don't like the term break in. Bad connotation.

You want your new engine to settle in. The way I think of it is, suppose you hadn't worked out at the gym for months - first couple weeks back, you would take it easy, right?

For at least 600 miles (this number per my owner's manual), no hard accelerating (keep rpms below 3000 - 3000 is my number), keep speed 60 mph or less (60 mph is my number). No extended highway cruising, run a good mix of city and highway driving.

If you do find yourself on the open highway, move your speed up and down by 5 mph every couple of minutes. Don't drive on the highway for more than 1/2 an hour continuously.

When I parked, I made sure to let the engine run at idle for about 10 seconds, just to give the oil pump a solid opportunity to ensure the piston walls were lubricated for the next start.

I did the above, my engine has settled in nicely. Maybe I was overcautious, a little anal, but I didn't mind a few weeks of restraint, in exchange for what I hope is years of solid engine performance.

Also, I got my oil changed when I had about 700 miles on the odometer. Thought it would be good to get the "new engine" contaminants out.
 
I would just basically drive the car...The only thing you should do that I would, is don't let your rpms sit at one pace too long and shift through the gears...And if you are that crazy with it, let the compression slow you down instead of your brakes to release the mirco metal shaves out through the exhaust...And most important DON'T USE YOUR CRUISE CONTROL
 
ReFlex said:
I would just basically drive the car...The only thing you should do that I would, is don't let your rpms sit at one pace too long and shift through the gears...And if you are that crazy with it, let the compression slow you down instead of your brakes to release the mirco metal shaves out through the exhaust...And most important DON'T USE YOUR CRUISE CONTROL
Yeah, I'll be breaking it in in LA, so the RPMs will be moving a lot - lots of stoplights and signs.

Also, I will try my best to see what broke and what might need upgrading.
 
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